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My '67 R/T has the metal shields, but it was a Dec. '66 build.
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2
- Thread starter dadsbee
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BB BELLA
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should probably be putting some of those torque boxes in Bella! is that something available after market that are well made? my sons a pretty good fabricator could likely make some up easier with measurements! he made the bellhousing from scratch mating the rb to a ZF so a torque box would be a breeze!
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US Tool sells them, or at least a rendition. '66 only has the rears and the plate up on the rear spring hanger channel. Newer cars also had them on the front rails... Torque Box Set
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Our Oct 66 built 67 Charger has plastic shields.
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Maybe you would like to get our 67 L code Charger and then put your shields on it???? Then you wouldn’t have go through the hassle of advertising yours. Just trying to be helpful.
Belvedere408
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My 67 Belvedere had metal k frame splash shields. Dustin.
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K frame splash shields off the car and on the parts shelf, waiting for the next car to be installed on!
Passenger door has never been opened up either. Wanted to fix the door card, so popped it off and sprayed Krown in this one as well.
Passenger card part #2656452 F
Inspectors signature.
Top edge stainless was loose on this door as well, but at least hadn't started wearing the paint off.
Vapor barrier glued and paper taped back into place.
Vinyl wrap loose on both door cards on the top rear corner. Did my best to glue and staple them to snug up the wrinkle.
Trying to get the trim to stay in place with a few dimples. Pretty obvious why they switched to trim that screws to the door in '68, that the card tucks up under and holds tight.
Added some tarp tape for good measure.
Window crank handles part # 2299927
Passenger door has never been opened up either. Wanted to fix the door card, so popped it off and sprayed Krown in this one as well.
Passenger card part #2656452 F
Inspectors signature.
Top edge stainless was loose on this door as well, but at least hadn't started wearing the paint off.
Vapor barrier glued and paper taped back into place.
Vinyl wrap loose on both door cards on the top rear corner. Did my best to glue and staple them to snug up the wrinkle.
Trying to get the trim to stay in place with a few dimples. Pretty obvious why they switched to trim that screws to the door in '68, that the card tucks up under and holds tight.
Added some tarp tape for good measure.
Window crank handles part # 2299927
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Like I always say, if it's off....
57 year old cranks in better shape than brand new reproductions that the knobs fall off after 5 cranks.
Passenger door all back together. Need to give that paint a buff.
Same deal on the drivers side.
57 year old cranks in better shape than brand new reproductions that the knobs fall off after 5 cranks.
Passenger door all back together. Need to give that paint a buff.
Same deal on the drivers side.
BB BELLA
Well-Known Member
you've taken all the patina off! you know another term for patina "old and neglected"
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Metal splash shields that I have on their way from Michigan from Big Bill. Will need a blast and paint, but I may even make patterns from them and bend up some new ones. Pending how that goes their may be a more than a few made.
Gonna see if I can bring the upper door panels back to life.
1/2 there...
Good as she's gonna get, right after I wipe that spot I missed..
Amazing how hard it is to get a camera to focus on date etchings on glass. Going around the car to see just how correct it its. Rear glass mfg 115. November, 1965.
Rear drivers glass 10th month of 1965. Drivers door glass the same 105M but couldn't get a focus on it.
Not sure on the windshield, possibly it's a replacement at some point in time, not sure on how to read the code on this one. 15 could be January 1965, not sure.
Passenger door glass and rear quarter glass both December 1965. Car was built December 15th.
Passenger vent glass also December 1965.
Drivers vent glass November 1965.
Gonna see if I can bring the upper door panels back to life.
1/2 there...
Good as she's gonna get, right after I wipe that spot I missed..
Amazing how hard it is to get a camera to focus on date etchings on glass. Going around the car to see just how correct it its. Rear glass mfg 115. November, 1965.
Rear drivers glass 10th month of 1965. Drivers door glass the same 105M but couldn't get a focus on it.
Not sure on the windshield, possibly it's a replacement at some point in time, not sure on how to read the code on this one. 15 could be January 1965, not sure.
Passenger door glass and rear quarter glass both December 1965. Car was built December 15th.
Passenger vent glass also December 1965.
Drivers vent glass November 1965.
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Mirror flops around everytime you open and close the door. Hoping I can tighten up the pivot by taking it apart.
Original pedestal casting part #2299321
Mirror is held in by a metal ring. Push in on the mirror and hook and lift the ring out.
Spring in behind the mirror.
Even the mirror glass is date correct for the car. August 1965 ( 8- DMT-5). Took me 15 minutes to get this shot.
I tried a few tricks trying to tighten up the metal friction strap with no luck. A blob of Gorilla glue and we'll see if it bites to the pivot come tomorrow. No way I'm trying to drill those rivets out holding the friction plate. When this fails to work I'll put it back on, adjust, get out the passenger side and glue the sucker again.
Damage that the mirror has done to the trim by flopping around.
Enough for a Sunday. A few tunes and it's closing time..
Original pedestal casting part #2299321
Mirror is held in by a metal ring. Push in on the mirror and hook and lift the ring out.
Spring in behind the mirror.
Even the mirror glass is date correct for the car. August 1965 ( 8- DMT-5). Took me 15 minutes to get this shot.
I tried a few tricks trying to tighten up the metal friction strap with no luck. A blob of Gorilla glue and we'll see if it bites to the pivot come tomorrow. No way I'm trying to drill those rivets out holding the friction plate. When this fails to work I'll put it back on, adjust, get out the passenger side and glue the sucker again.
Damage that the mirror has done to the trim by flopping around.
Enough for a Sunday. A few tunes and it's closing time..
Well said Wayne. Well said.
I’ve heard of using a couple drops of low strength loctite on those mirror pivots to tighten them up but I’ve never tried it. There’s a purple variety that is supposed to provide a greater friction fit to threaded fittings.
There was a mirror hack from Rick Ehrenberg in Mopar Action several years back that involves super glue on the ball. I’ll look for it when I’m home tomorrow night. I posted it once before.
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Basically what I did and it worked. I put it back on today, adjusted it with a view down the stainless trim and slammed the door 5 times and it didn't move. If it does I'll add some glue to the outside of the ball and roll it around, then into position and let it set.
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I think clear nail polish was used.
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Our buddy RC with a survivor '66 Belvedere II keeping me on my toes with "correctness".
Engine to body ground wire that is missing on mine. Not even sure where it's getting it's body ground from.
Unique wire holder bracket that many guys with hemi cars have never seen. Appears it's to keep the wiring harness off the manifold heat pipes.
I also noticed that my voltage regulator is mounted 180* out from factory and I need to find a ballast resistor bracket that has the extra hole for the "lock" bump. Think I have one in the glove box of the Superbird.
Now to make a ground strap, you'd think I'd have something in this little collection of mine.
Story of my life, too short!
Found one that I can work with. Just need to reshape the termination to somewhat match factory
That'll fake it good enough.
Then some wire covering tube to cover the bare wire and need to find a termination for the engine end.
Bag of those will do it and a finished ground strap.
Engine to body ground wire that is missing on mine. Not even sure where it's getting it's body ground from.
Unique wire holder bracket that many guys with hemi cars have never seen. Appears it's to keep the wiring harness off the manifold heat pipes.
I also noticed that my voltage regulator is mounted 180* out from factory and I need to find a ballast resistor bracket that has the extra hole for the "lock" bump. Think I have one in the glove box of the Superbird.
Now to make a ground strap, you'd think I'd have something in this little collection of mine.
Story of my life, too short!
Found one that I can work with. Just need to reshape the termination to somewhat match factory
That'll fake it good enough.
Then some wire covering tube to cover the bare wire and need to find a termination for the engine end.
Bag of those will do it and a finished ground strap.
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Almost forgot the engine paint..
Stole a factory bolt off the '64 Dodge.
Voltage regulator turned around to be factory correct. Better shot of the ballast resistor with the incorrect retainer bracket.
Back into the old Beach tool box again.
That looks about right.
4 or 5 dips.
Left to dry for the night.
Ground strap and wiring hanger installed today.
Correct lower shifter boot for the Inland shifter arrived Canpar today.
I don't think this install is going to be any fun at all. The coming days will determine that.
Stole a factory bolt off the '64 Dodge.
Voltage regulator turned around to be factory correct. Better shot of the ballast resistor with the incorrect retainer bracket.
Back into the old Beach tool box again.
That looks about right.
4 or 5 dips.
Left to dry for the night.
Ground strap and wiring hanger installed today.
Correct lower shifter boot for the Inland shifter arrived Canpar today.
I don't think this install is going to be any fun at all. The coming days will determine that.
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Pretty much factory correct other than carbs and a battery. I have the correct '66 OE carburetors, just don't have the hair left to play with them.
Air cleaner assembly back on. Will "build" a correct script battery in the days to come.
Most would never even notice the piece missing out of the fan shroud, right below the upper radiator hose, but I of course did.
Was hoping I could get the shroud turned a bit so the repair area would be level, but a no go there. No way I'm taking the fan, etc apart to extract it so we'll fix it on the car.
A few sharp notches for the repair to bite into.
Cut and bent up a little forming "mould".
Form put in place with a piece of wax paper between it and the shroud.
My go to..
Form clamped in place then the JB Plastic Bonder on to fill the missing piece.
Not bad. A bit of clean up tomorrow once it's fully hardened.
Air cleaner assembly back on. Will "build" a correct script battery in the days to come.
Most would never even notice the piece missing out of the fan shroud, right below the upper radiator hose, but I of course did.
Was hoping I could get the shroud turned a bit so the repair area would be level, but a no go there. No way I'm taking the fan, etc apart to extract it so we'll fix it on the car.
A few sharp notches for the repair to bite into.
Cut and bent up a little forming "mould".
Form put in place with a piece of wax paper between it and the shroud.
My go to..
Form clamped in place then the JB Plastic Bonder on to fill the missing piece.
Not bad. A bit of clean up tomorrow once it's fully hardened.
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