Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
Your doing good on your car.. great work!!! good luck with the storage..
1967 Coronet Deluxe
- Thread starter kb67mopar
- Start date
Invisabledog
Well-Known Member
Looks good so far. Keep up the good work. I'll be doing something very similar but more extensive to my fury. That is if I ever get the shop back in order from the flood. lol.
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I think progress is going to slow during the winter since I will have to find a place to store it. I think I am going to pull the 360 into the garage and prep that this winter to keep things going. So coming up here will probably be some engine pictures instead of body work for a while.
Anybody in North West Indiana with a pole barn?
Anybody in North West Indiana with a pole barn?
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Well floors are about 99% done. They would have been finished except I ran out of welding wire with a very small amount to finish..so tomorrow morning it will get wrapped up and finish painted.
Ran out of wire on this one...so dont mind the holes
Ran out of wire on this one...so dont mind the holes
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Well the floors are officially done. Next up will be tearing into the 360 this winter.
The car is sufficiently wrapped and stored for the winter, hopefully it all holds up. I hate having to put it outside but just can't afford to pay for storage so this is how it goes.
The car is sufficiently wrapped and stored for the winter, hopefully it all holds up. I hate having to put it outside but just can't afford to pay for storage so this is how it goes.
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Well the engine work will begin soon as I hopefully have the 273 and possibly 360 core sold this week...so I may have some working capitol.
I do have a dilemma though. Going to the '85 360 as opposed to the 67' the water pump, pulleys, harmonic balancer are all different and also puts the water pump outlet on the pass side instead of driver. What do you do to correct this? Do I need to run the 67' timing cover and run the old style pump? but then my pulley doesn't bolt up because of the harmonic balancer difference?
I do have a dilemma though. Going to the '85 360 as opposed to the 67' the water pump, pulleys, harmonic balancer are all different and also puts the water pump outlet on the pass side instead of driver. What do you do to correct this? Do I need to run the 67' timing cover and run the old style pump? but then my pulley doesn't bolt up because of the harmonic balancer difference?
TheSwede
Well-Known Member
Getting sick friday night? Who doesn´t? :headbang:
Nice work on the floor, the framerails looks great, it is funny they are in good shape and the torsionbar cross member not?
Nice winter coccon!
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Yeah it was actual sick but there is always that version too.:angel9:
As for the odd rust combination....only explanation:
:ufo:
Seriously though this car has some weird rust, some spots are rock solid while other parts touching them are perfectly fine...no idea how that works.
As for the odd rust combination....only explanation:
:ufo:
Seriously though this car has some weird rust, some spots are rock solid while other parts touching them are perfectly fine...no idea how that works.
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Well I finally got the 360 moved into the garage and started to tear it down. My goal was to just tear it apart, put in a new cam, some new gaskets and give it a coat of paint.
It seems that will probably not be in the cards. Upon further inspection a few of the cylinders have a little bit of surface rust from sitting, most likely from improper storage by the previous owner. Being that this was a reman engine from Marshall Engines I am not sure what all the journals and bores are. Bores seem to measure out (with my calipers) to 4.060. and I haven't pulled the crank yet.
Does anybody know if you can clean up some surface rust with a hone? its enough to snag my finger nail on but not enough it would stop it from turning over.
It seems that will probably not be in the cards. Upon further inspection a few of the cylinders have a little bit of surface rust from sitting, most likely from improper storage by the previous owner. Being that this was a reman engine from Marshall Engines I am not sure what all the journals and bores are. Bores seem to measure out (with my calipers) to 4.060. and I haven't pulled the crank yet.
Does anybody know if you can clean up some surface rust with a hone? its enough to snag my finger nail on but not enough it would stop it from turning over.
TheSwede
Well-Known Member
I would have tear it down completly and really cleaned it up, then I would have measure the cylinders to see if it is possible to put in some new pistons with flat top or dome to rise the compressionen slightly with just some honing instead of new bore, if that is to expensive go with the old pistons and just hone of the surface and put in new rings and bearings.
Parts are almost for free compared to Sweden, so new bearings, rings and gaskets AND a new oilpump in never wrong. Just take it easy honing so you don´t enlarge the holes to much, measure first. And use the right grit for the rings you plan to use.
But if you are really on the low side of cashtown, just take it apart, clean it, hone just to remove the rust, new gaskets and it is ready to run.
But this is just my opinion, there is at least ten other ways to do this.
Parts are almost for free compared to Sweden, so new bearings, rings and gaskets AND a new oilpump in never wrong. Just take it easy honing so you don´t enlarge the holes to much, measure first. And use the right grit for the rings you plan to use.
But if you are really on the low side of cashtown, just take it apart, clean it, hone just to remove the rust, new gaskets and it is ready to run.
But this is just my opinion, there is at least ten other ways to do this.
19667CORONET
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Great work!!! I just changed the torsion box on my 1967 coronet as well!!!! My frame rails are perfect as well. As for the water pump problem you can just change the radiator to work with that outlet!!! Just a thought.
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Good work! As for it not being a rare car....well, 2 door post cars are not exactly plentiful plus it came with a V8 and a stick. The 2 door post cars were usually the bottom of the line car and someone that was looking for economy bought Darts or Valiants. I have a 66 Belvedere I 2dr post that came with a /6, auto and AC. Southern car for sure from Bremond Texas and it had very little rust. Most 2 dr post cars came with the /6 and finding one with a V8 is a bonus. And for your storage bag....it needs to be able to breathe so that moisture can escape or you'll end up with more damage than you think.
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
I've actually re-wrapped it and it can breath well now. I realized that after re-visiting my wrapping job.
I have somewhat noticed its harder to find these though its still getting a real stick instead of the 3 on the tree.
And thanks for the compliments guys, its been quite a bit of work so far but plenty left to go.
Also I finished tearing down the 360. It looks like the rust will probably hone out pretty easily though I did find something else concerning. This is a re-man engine so it has been previously rebuilt, apparently one of the rods previously grenaded and took out a piece of the bottom of a cyl. It is below the rings but still a concern for me. I am going to bring it to my machine shop here after I finish tearing down my 79' block and see what he thinks is the better option/compared to $$. The 79' block will for sure need boring and new cam bearings, freeze plugs etc...so I'll see what the difference in cost will be.
I have somewhat noticed its harder to find these though its still getting a real stick instead of the 3 on the tree.
And thanks for the compliments guys, its been quite a bit of work so far but plenty left to go.
Also I finished tearing down the 360. It looks like the rust will probably hone out pretty easily though I did find something else concerning. This is a re-man engine so it has been previously rebuilt, apparently one of the rods previously grenaded and took out a piece of the bottom of a cyl. It is below the rings but still a concern for me. I am going to bring it to my machine shop here after I finish tearing down my 79' block and see what he thinks is the better option/compared to $$. The 79' block will for sure need boring and new cam bearings, freeze plugs etc...so I'll see what the difference in cost will be.
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Well guys I've decided that the price tag of rebuilding the 360 to a mild performer is going to cost me a similar amount as to putting in a 5.7 hemi with 60-70k miles. So I have decided to change horses mid stream and go that route. This was my original plan but I had thought it would be too cost prohibitive. I now realize it should end up about the same and then I can put a hemi badge on it :headbang:
So I am now in the hunt for a good deal on a 5.7 hemi with wiring harness, computer and gas pedal/manual throttle body.
That being said I have also posted my 360 parts/blocks up for sale in the sale forums. So if anybody is interested PM me.
So I am now in the hunt for a good deal on a 5.7 hemi with wiring harness, computer and gas pedal/manual throttle body.
That being said I have also posted my 360 parts/blocks up for sale in the sale forums. So if anybody is interested PM me.
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kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Well guys (some of you probably saw this in the for sale thread) but I picked up a parts car to get some of the hard to find trim pieces and some trunk patches as well. I am starting to see how you guys end up with 3 or even 4 cars as it gets hard to pass up good deals when you find them.
I decided to go with another direction on the wheels and tires then my original thought and I am planning on running the steelies with hub caps from my 66 deluxe parts car. It should pretty much look factory when I get done and should fool people into thinking /6 instead of 5.7 Hemi. :male:
If anybody is interested in parts please only post in my for sale thread.
I decided to go with another direction on the wheels and tires then my original thought and I am planning on running the steelies with hub caps from my 66 deluxe parts car. It should pretty much look factory when I get done and should fool people into thinking /6 instead of 5.7 Hemi. :male:
If anybody is interested in parts please only post in my for sale thread.
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Well guys, today was a land mark for the Coronet. I drove 7 hours (total) to pick up its new power plant. I got a screaming deal on a 03 5.7 hemi with low miles. Got it home oiled the cylinders and its ready to put in this spring.
Even the paint on the block is in perfect shape, its better then the hemi in my Ram.
Even the paint on the block is in perfect shape, its better then the hemi in my Ram.
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Yeah I am glad i am going to the hemi, it should be a great power plant for this thing and be reliable with good fuel economy. I like the steelies and caps too and have yet to try them on the 67 but I am thinking that the 14's probably won't clear the front disks. So I will probably be selling them.
I just have to now figure out how to make this hemi run without it costing me 133% of my price for the engine. I ended up only paying $600 for this thing with the wiring harness and a computer. So paying $950 for the wiring harness and $250 to get the computer tuned seems a bit ludacris.
:violent-smiley-100::eusa_wall:
theman440
Well-Known Member
My car has '73 Dart discs on it and the 14 inch American 200S's do not interfere with the brakes - the steels might work for you unless you use BIG rotors. Theres got to be some info available out there to help you get that engine runnin with out too much fuss.
kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Yeah I have read a few people say that with the A-body brakes you can run a 14 so I will give it a shot this spring when it warms up and I can move the car into the garage again. I really like the dog dish cap and steelies look.
I need to do some more internet surfing to see if i can find somebody with a wiring diagram on a harness they made. Somebody has had to do this! I don't mind doing the wiring but I have no way of telling which inputs the computer needs and doesn't need. I am still going to give it a shot because anybody who charges $950 for a wiring harness is just plain gouging people.
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