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1968 Coronet RT, Save or Part Out

nicc264

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Jul 16, 2015
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Location
Richmond MI
Hello All,

So i recently found a 68 coronet RT 7.2L automatic on CL with 36k original miles. The car had been in a barn since 72'!, crazy as it sounds its true. Young man had the car, died and his father wouldn't let anybody touch the car thereafter. At some point recently the father passed and his other son decided to sell the car. So the car sat in a small barn for 43 years on a DIRT floor!. I asked WHY???? too.

Over the years the car sank into the ground and at some point raccoons and mice made entry and destroyed the interior, **** and pissed everywhere, ate the 8 track tapes too.. Much of the plastic like the instrument cluster and console are in good shape, once i wash all the **** off. The torsion cross member is basically gone, severed from the rockers. The front frame rails from the firewall back are shot, the rear cross member is shot, floor is 80% gone, trunk deck lid shot, trunk floor spotty, gas tank gone.

Front frame rails and engine bay metal looks decent from the firewall forward. Hood, fenders, doors, quarters, roof, rear wheel wells, engine bay metal, rad support, are all savable, actually in decent shape. Bottoms of the quarters, doors and fenders need some patch work but not bad. The rockers and door jams are still intact enough that the doors closed easily and the car still has structural integrity, (mostly). Rockers will need to be replaced though. My big concern is the engine bay from the firewall forward is noised up several inches due to the frame rails being shot.

Already pulled the engine and trans, both appear to be in decent shape. I will be breaking down the engine soon and having the block magnafluxed to verify no cracks, didnt see any at first glance, freeze plugs are intact. There was still coolant and oil in the engine, even though sitting for 43 years, still had the coolant smell and was somewhat green/brown. Hopefully no cracks. Haven't had time to pull the rear end yet.

I realize if this car is savable that the cost will be high, im figuring $3k in metal and $7k to have somebody chop it up and install the parts just to save the bottom. Question is, is it feasible? With both front frame rails and torsion cross member near gone from the firewall back and disconnected from the rockers, is there a way to weld in new metal and keep the body square?

If so, does anybody know any shops in Michigan that are capable & honest?

Or is it beyond saving, just part out the good parts?
 
We do this for a living. Just got a 69 RR in and needs some sheet metal replaced. Quarters, Dutchman panel, floors, bottoms of front fenders. I don't think the frame rails are bad. We are cheap and our guesstimate to him was 20-25K done. Might be more if we find hidden stuff. Short answer, you will spend a lot of money on that one. Sounds like you need the whole bottom of the car.
 
One thing you can never tell until you start to tear it apart. I spent way more than I would have ever planned. Whatever your budget is - increase it by 25% and start there.
 
when's the last time you saw a '68 Coronet trunk lid for sale, and for under a grand? be expensive, and a lot of time, but it can be done.
 
Yep, need pics. Is it complete? Have a grill, glass, door handles, trim?
 
As stated, if you've got the time, patience and of course cash flow, anything can be done now with all the places to get metal. Expensive for sure but, then you also know exactly what you have and not someone else's mess where a ton has geen hid and not done right. Good luck!
 
Like the others stated, post some pics up to show the rot. If the car needs as much attention as you said, I think you are way light on the money it will take in the bodywork department.
 
I would be looking for a donor car you can make 1 out of 2 a lot cheaper than you can buy all new metal for one....
there are still a few unrestored 68's out there, I know where there is a decent 68 super bee (hudson, ma contact me if you need contact info) that can be bought. A friend of mine bought a 68 super bee, then bought a pair of 68s {one rt and one base), he was into all 3 cars for 12K, then he built the Bee {still has it kept for himself}, then he still had enough there to make a decent project out of the other 2 that he sold for $10K, RT needing resto but all there...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Coronet-/62...xp=mtr&LH_Complete=1&_nkw=1968+coronet&_sop=2

good luck...
 
Is a 69 or 70 trunk lid different then a 68?

- - - Updated - - -

All the pics i have at the moment. Thank you for the feedback so far. ca1.jpgca2.jpgca3.jpg
 
yup, all three years are completely different. good luck! finding a donor car would be a great thing. many partsd you'll need are the same on four doors too.
 
It all comes down to time, money and love. If you have the time and money and love the car then yea restore it. If you said no to any of the three then pass and sell it or part it out.
 
Thank you. Body parts wise, besides the trunk lid, what else is different / same between the 68 & 69/70 coronet?
 
the doors are the same, but the interior door lock knob is in different location, but not a real big deal. the '68/'69 fenders are the same except for the markers. The inner fenders,frames,hoods are the same, but the '69 hood has an extra piece on the bottom of the front lip.
bumpers are the same. Interiors will swap, but there are some style differences.
 
Now that you posted pics, I really think you need another car with it... Judging by the pictures I am going to guess depending on how much work you do yourself and what kind of finished product yoou are looking for, you will creep up to $40K on the resto for a car in that kind of shape, while if you buy another car in better shape that doesnt need as much foundation work for $5K, you can shave $12-15K off the resto, plus have the extra parts to sell or trade off...

Sadly restoring a classic mopar is not for the budget pocket any more, we restored an entire 70 chevelle {new 1/4's trunk, floors, new drive line, 60% of the interior, and new paint} for what a friend of mine paid for the drive line and a pair of used fenders for his 70 charger!!!

Unless you have an emotional attachment to that car, I am going to say a rotey nut and bolt restored 68 R/T is worth less than that car will cost to get there... There is perfect hemi in the $80K's and a convertible in the $50K's this car is worth much lass than either of them...

I am not trying to discourage you but unless it belonged to someone really famous or has a really cool back story the car will cost much more than its worth, and I cna think of 4 better/similar cars to start with on the market right now that in the long run have a much better chance of being finished. I know a lot of people who bought cars for $2500, then put $10K in them over 5-10K years and sold them for $2500 because they lost interest

good luck with what ever you decide because that car is an r/t the dash vin rad support etc is worth something to someone with a basic coronet that would like to build an rt...
 
the doors are the same, but the interior door lock knob is in different location, but not a real big deal. the '68/'69 fenders are the same except for the markers. The inner fenders,frames,hoods are the same, but the '69 hood has an extra piece on the bottom of the front lip.
bumpers are the same. Interiors will swap, but there are some style differences.

The 68 and 69 fenders are also different in the front for the head light bucket assembly and the attachment point to the rad core support. Been there done that.
 
and that's what you get when an old Charger guy answers questions about Coronets!
 
If you go into this 'game' with a 'budget', forget it. You can not have a budget and get the work done that is always needed on these (and any) car that is pushing 50 yrs old. When I did the 93 Ram 250 2 yrs ago for my ex bro in law, he tried to goad me into agreeing to a 10k 'budget', I never committed to that, he said continue nonetheless, I think the total was 19k, on a 8k truck. It's lunacy when you weight all the factors out, but, I'm glad it's cars and the emotional involvement they bring. The real balance is finding skilled folks to do the job, and do they work Time and Materials based off what you're willing to spend each month. I currently have a guy (49 Chevy) that has a budget of $1000.00 a month. Frankly, I understand this is a lot of money, I do! However, this is not even one week working on the car, the rest of the time I have to move the car, work around the car, etc. So, then (to the shop) it becomes a storage game; more cars in for more cash flow but quickly run out of room! I no longer take jobs like this is, (cuz I have no room) and I'm packed to the max with jobs excluding my own stuff. It looks like your car was twisted and bent with the front and rear ends aiming skyward. I'm guessing at least 30k to get it taken apart, blasted (the stuff that's good), in epoxy, and metal work done. This is not including paint and prep for final paint and not including interior (15k for custom made complete interior), engine, etc. This is an expensive venture!
 
Amen, Donny ............................ I have 200 honest hours in a customers 1969 Ford truck cab and doors......... that is rust repair and filler work only........... everything butt welded and finished both sides where possible






 
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