1969 Dodge Super Bee Coupe Restoration

[moparnation74]

Nothing in the FSM that even shows what bolts hold a window frame in. Guess I need a parts manual to boot... The way I put them in makes sense as the bracket gets supported by the flange that sticks out of the door frame and seems to act as a good slider platform for the bracket for adjustments. Justin's are installed the other way in his pictures and I found a for sale add for a left side bracket and it would justify Justin's install as correct ! @moparnation74

Wayne

I will post some pics tonight.

Justin

 

[hunt2elk]

Nothing in the FSM that even shows what bolts hold a window frame in. Guess I need a parts manual to boot... The way I put them in makes sense as the bracket gets supported by the flange that sticks out of the door frame and seems to act as a good slider platform for the bracket for adjustments. Justin's are installed the other way in his pictures and I found a for sale add for a left side bracket and it would justify Justin's install as correct ! @moparnation74

I have a couple of doors with the window stuff still in them. They are stored away on some upper shelving in my garage. If Justin doesn't get what you are looking for let me know and i can dig one out.

 

[dadsbee]

Thanks guys... I popped the plug out of my other cars door and got my inspection camera in there. They are indeed "flat side" up like Justin has in his pictures. Makes no sense considering they slide so nice (and would be stronger sitting) on that door flange the other way, but that's a Chrysler for yah!

 

[moparnation74]

Wayne.......

It took me a bit to locate the picture I thought I had which shows the stamping to designate right from left. I was fortunate that mine where in great shape and not crusty. Each one had a stamping but as you can see it is not very deep. So with any rusting they would disappear....

Hope this helps...

 

[dadsbee]

Common failure, the bottom "hook" breaks off the window track. I remember brazing this one back on, in the car, back in '88.

Since it was crooked, only being welded on one side (and didn't appear it would fit through the door slot ) I cut it off and cleaned it up.

Then MIG welded it back into place straight and then cleaned up the OE spot welds inside the track that sat proud, so they don't catch the door glass slider material.

Cleaning out the track with a rag stuffed tight and acetone. Checking for any places that catch and carefully filing them smooth with a riffler file.

I learned today why the chrome and polishing specialist didn't put the window frame back together, after his $415 PER side cost even though it was quoted as Re and Re. Not sure how big a pry bar they used to take them apart, but the swage ring was still on the old bosses and the frame wouldn't fit back over them. Dremel to clean off the "ring".

I actually had to open a few holes a size up to get the vent frame sitting tightly to the front post.

Not a great start, first hit and a swagging nub snapped off. Good thing there are two. I HIGHLY suggest to anyone else, clearance the frame holes.. test fit to make sure everything sits right... pull apart.. apply panel bond adhesive and then clamp the frame back into place over night. DO NOT attempt to swage the nubs to hold it together.

Should have experimented on the passenger side first, since that door will be seen less!

I did manage to put both frames together with only this one casualty because it moved on my bucking bar as I hit the swagging nub with the punch. A helper today would have been swell...

Chromer also increased the size of the pivot shafts so big they won't even consider going into the holders. Had to take the belt sander to them and bring them back down to size.

Now they fit..

 

[dadsbee]

Wayne.......

It took me a bit to locate the picture I thought I had which shows the stamping to designate right from left. I was fortunate that mine where in great shape and not crusty. Each one had a stamping but as you can see it is not very deep. So with any rusting they would disappear....

Hope this helps...

View attachment 745093

Perfect... so they DO go upside down! LOL. Nuts painted in door jam or black phosphate (ie: installed after paint)?

 

[moparnation74]

Perfect... so they DO go upside down! LOL. Nuts painted in door jam or black phosphate (installed after paint)?

I believe the reason why the flange pointed up along with the hole was to divert water to the drain portion on the inside of the door. Just how many of these have you seen not crusty? Had to be water......

The nuts are not painted body color, they are black phosphate....

 

[moparnation74]

Common failure, the bottom "hook" breaks off the window track. I remember brazing this one back on, in the car, back in '88.

Since it was crooked, only being welded on one side (and didn't appear it would fit through the door slot ) I cut it off and cleaned it up.

Then MIG welded it back into place straight and then cleaned up the OE spot welds inside the track that sat proud, so they don't catch the door glass slider material.

Cleaning out the track with a rag stuffed tight and acetone. Checking for any places that catch and carefully filing them smooth with a riffler file.

I learned today why the chrome and polishing specialist didn't put the window frame back together, after his $415 PER side cost even though it was quoted as Re and Re. Not sure how big a pry bar they used to take them apart, but the swage ring was still on the old bosses and the frame wouldn't fit back over them. Dremel to clean off the "ring".

I actually had to open a few holes a size up to get the vent frame sitting tightly to the front post.

Not a great start, first hit and a swagging nub snapped off. Good thing there are two. I HIGHLY suggest to anyone else, clearance the frame holes.. test fit to make sure everything sits right... pull apart.. apply panel bond adhesvie and then clamp the frame back into place over night. DO NOT attempt to swage the nubs to hold it together.

Should have experimented on the passenger side first, since that door will be seen less!

I did manage to put both frames together with only this one casualty because it moved on my bucking bar as I hit the swagging nub with the punch. A helper today would have been swell...

Chromer also increased the size of the pivot shafts so big they won't even considering going into the holders. Had to take the belt sander to them and bring them back down to size.

Now they fit..

View attachment 745087 View attachment 745088 View attachment 745089 View attachment 745090 View attachment 745091 View attachment 745092 View attachment 745094 View attachment 745095 View attachment 745096 View attachment 745097

Sorry, that happened.......The glue technique is the way to go......

The pivot shaft is BS for a plater to do that and knowing it will increase the size.....They can simply cover those areas so plate will not attach....

 

[dadsbee]

Yah those pins are so hard they don't wanna be peened over. I just looked and it was quoted as Re and Re... I think he missed one "Re"! Wish I'd had a helper to hold the frame on the bucking bar, but it is what it is.. it's not as visual in person as the picture appears to show!

About as brilliant as plating my pivot "ear" with the shaft jammed in it. This is the "premier" plater we have up here that does all the Guild's stuff as well!

 

[moparnation74]

Yah those pins are so hard they don't wanna be peened over. I just looked and it was quoted as Re and Re... I think he missed one "Re"! Wish I'd had a helper to hold the frame on the bucking bar, but it is what it is.. it's not as visual in person as the picture appears to show!

About as brilliant as plating my pivot "ear" with the shaft jammed in it. This is the "premier" plater we have up here that does all the Guild's stuff as well!

I agree...Once on the car no one will ever notice and it isn't worth dealing with it IMHO.....

 

[dadsbee]

Yep, just me, you and the three thousand people here will know the defect is there!!

 

[moparnation74]

Yep, just me, you and the three thousand people here will know the defect is there!!

I forgot what I did yesterday!

 

[dadsbee]

OE wing vent window holder part number / vendor number. Passenger side.

OE wing vent window holder part number / vendor number. Driver side.

I cut the 0.060" thick glass setting tape 9.5" long to match the glass & holder frame length. Not sure why "Tony's Parts" install information calls out only 8" as it will leave 3/4" of bare spot on each side/end of the glass, the other end detents get filled with black RTV to simulate the OE gasket shape.

Setting "tape" ready to lay over the vent glass holder.

Tape in place and glass pressed into same, making sure it's center in the casting.

I couple good taps of persuasion to fully seat the glass.

Trim the excess tape off.

Glass nicely in place. The open end on the right gets filled with black RTV, as does the one on the left on the other side to finish it up. OE style gaskets don't seem to be reproduced.

New Precision gaskets cleaned up with glass cleaner and lubed with same during install.

I started in the sharp corner at the top. I had a bit of a bump in the gasket along the A post and then noticed there is a "nubb" to locate at the top, about an inch before the top corner. Needed to force the seal up slightly and all went into place.

 

[dadsbee]

After the top corner the A post was completed next. Lots of lube and the paint brush handlle to force rubber into front bottom corner and then across the bottom making sure pivot hole is centered. Up the window slider post last.

Test install had the top of the glass out onto the frame a bit.. shown by my finger.

I used one of the lower frame holder pins to give the pivot mount a little tweek to bring the glass top forward.

Upper pivot ear and gasket.

Bit of grease and ear/gasket put into place.

Inside gasket, bezel and screw. Story of my life, screw just a bit short, won't catch enough threads.

Almost done. Needs a longer screw, retainer split pin on lock lever installed as well as the split pin on pivot shaft that restricts the rotation travel.

 

[dadsbee]

Wavy spring washer goes on lock post first, a bit of grease on the post and then the knob.

Lock knob in place and split pin ready to install.

Channel locks to push the pin into place.

Rotation stop pin installed to pivot shaft.

Other than finding a bit longer screw for each upper pivot bezel the vent frames are ready to move on to door glass installation.

Lock side window channels. This is a post car and channels are unique for it vs hardtops. New guides are Cat Wiskers # AS2001 or National Moparts # WS302

Drill out the two rivets that hold the rubber/felt guide in place.

Repro rivets on the left.. OE on the right. Time to look through my rivet shelves for something with a similar small flat head as not using those big things.

OE guide rubber/felt part # 2860398 for the OE crowd.

Reproductions are VERY close to the OE's. They are the right shape, size and interior felt like material.

 

[dadsbee]

Well I found a "few" rivets that should work to duplicate the fit of the OE ones. AN442-AD4-3

OE / AN442 / Reproduction. 442-4-3's have the correct head diameter and length to work perfect. Afraid those big head suppled semi tubulars will sit proud and be a rub spot.

New rubber/felts slipped into place leaving about 1/8" proud at top of channel.

Back drilled through the rubber for the rivets.

I drilled a piece of scrap wood and put all 4 rivets into same and ran them on the belt sander to half thickness.

They now match the OE rivets head thickness and I gave the new surface edge a quick sand to round off.

Rivets into place with tweezers and then pushed through the rubber and metal channel.

I used an old mould ejector pin the same diameter as the rivet head as my bucking bar and a ball peen to set the rivets.

Perfect, nicely down below the felt surface.

Cut off the excess leaving a bit of overhang.

 

[dadsbee]

I slipped both lock side channels onto my new glass. Drivers side runs smooth, passenger not so much. Leaving them this way to see if it's just from "packaging set" before I open up the metal channel slightly.

Go big or go home.. I read enough warnings to not use the repop vent window slider material and bought OEM's awhile back. Somewhere around $300 for these two pieces of mylar/felt. Proper shape, curved to match the glass = no jamming.

Lock pin/sliders that go through the glass and inside the slider felts. OE left, OEM middle and repop right.

OE lock pin/slider center hubs touch when in the glass. OEM hubs will touch, but gap is not enough for glass and slider felt thickness. Repops are terrible in all regards, worked well in the rear flip outs, but not for the door glass. It's been long documented they are "too thick", but in reality it's the inner (glass side) faces that need to be relieved to match the glass/felt thickness and not reduced on the outside edge to make them work if you have no choice.

Test "slide" of the mylar felts.

I found on both vent frames that the felts catch the stainless as they go up the channel. Probably not an issue once all together, but I'm not taking that chance.

Just a few licks of the file and everything slides smooth.

OE passenger glass ready to remove old mylar felts, slider pins and raising/lowering bracket.

The plastic "peg" is actually a "rivet". Give the center a light rap and if it won't move in this direction hit it from the other side. This one went out this way and the drivers side wouldn't budge, but just a light tap from the other side and it shot right out.

Bracket off ready for clean up and then install a new gasket between it and the new glass.

 

[dadsbee]

New Repop rivet top, OE bottom.

Reference dimension from top corner of glass to start of mylar felt = 11/16". Checked my SuperBird and its are at 9/16". Spec is probably a 5/8"..

Door glass up stop at the bottom rear of the glass. Remove screw and carefully push it out of the glass. I made the mistake of squeezing it and snapped a tab off.

Attention body and paint people. When you're done all your skim coat blocking and filler priming, clean up the lock tumbler holes with clearance before paint! These are brand new door skins, I shouldn't be doing this.

10 minutes to a nice smooth fit and of course I have to touch up the paint so it doesn't rust out from the hole.

Then the dilemma ! Sealing gaskets...

I have this complete kit. Black for handles, whitish gray for locks.

And I'd bought others.. Gray, beige, clear, mystery black o-ring I tried but won't work cleanly. Why not BLACK FFS !?

 

[dadsbee]

Magic in a can! Key locks have never turned so smooth.

I was scratching my head for a bit. Both of my locks had the arm pointing the same way, which is impossible to install or hook up. Looking at the ends I noticed a brand new C clip on the drivers lock. Guess it fell apart when removed and they put it back together backwards. Drivers side left, passenger side right.

New door handle that was installed by the paint shop. I kept meaning to get around to installing the reinforcing plates I bought over a year ago. DON'T WAIT.. do it NOW!

This is my drivers door, just from closings to date. I pushed the dent out the best I could with a rubber covered hammer handle.

Door reinforcement plates and 5 minute GAP FILLING epoxy.

Test fit before install.

About 1/2 the syringes of epoxy mixed up and buttered on.

Quickly put into place and the nuts just finger tight so the epoxy can take the shape of the door.

Looking good at this point.

Fortunately my window regulators are in great shape, even the plastic rollers. Removed them from the doors to be sure no glass media is inside them and to lube ready for install.

 

[dadsbee]

Krown in the drive gear bushings and pivot, wheel bearing grease on the teeth and guide surfaces.

Interior door handle to door latch release rod. Thought I had some of this cloth sheathing to re and re, but size I had was too small.

Some heat shrink tube will clean it up and keep the anti-rattle desire intact.

Passenger side.

Shot to show the correct clip to hold the rod to the inside door handle. The latch mechanism end just sits in a hole with no clip.

Retainer clip for the key locks.

Key lock in place and hooked up, showing proper retainer clips for it and for the door handle push button to latch mechanism rod.

A few hours later I tightened up the door handle nuts. Beauty is back and dent is gone!

How the "lock side" glass channel sits.

So glad to say... we're ready for glass!.. and I'll be so happy to be past this stage if all goes well!