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1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite from Junk to......

Hey ... I recognize that engine!
So lets talk about what I did to try and get her running for the first time in many years besides a new battery :wetting:
I noticed that the intake manifold was rusted through on one of the heater ports and was the stock two barrels YUK PUKE :bs: So I put a new Edlebrock intake on with a new demon carburetor and some new valve covers.

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I wish ... work has me hopping 6 days a week anymore. But I am buying a bunch of stuff in preparation for a big push once it cools down a little.
 
I wish ... work has me hopping 6 days a week anymore. But I am buying a bunch of stuff in preparation for a big push once it cools down a little.
Yeah the heat is a bummer.......have to wait until October before it gets cool ...
 
Small things...

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Been too hot outside so not much garage action. I decided to take up some water sports. I hydroblasted My dash frame. Way to many details to sand down. Took me 20 minutes to get it down to bare metal. Took an hour to set up and clean lol. Hit it with Phosphoric acid to stop the flash. It has excellent tooth structure being an etching acid. All ready for paint.

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Slow progress as its 117F here in Hell. I received my Anderson Powerpole connectors and replaced the crap Molex connector on the ignition side as I rebuild the harness and fuse box. The Powerpole connector is color coded to the wires! By far the best solution and its got a 40A rating.

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Got the rear 1/4 panel in a while ago but it didn’t have a cut out for the turn indicator. I had to cut that out. I just used my cutoff wheel that was worn down to half size which was perfect given the size of the hole I had to cut. Getting the angle right is tricky with the car having a slight rake. Buts good. The only issue is the pneumatic flange tool I have can not properly flange the way the factory did it. This flanging makes the marker fit somewhat flush with the panel in a partial recessed position.

Q. Anyone know a good way to flange this hole?

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Got the rear 1/4 panel in a while ago but it didn’t have a cut out for the turn indicator. I had to cut that out. I just used my cutoff wheel that was worn down to half size which was perfect given the size of the hole I had to cut. Getting the angle right is tricky with the car having a slight rake. Buts good. The only issue is the pneumatic flange tool I have can not properly flange the way the factory did it. This flanging makes the marker fit somewhat flush with the panel in a partial recessed position.

Q. Anyone know a good way to flange this hole?

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I do not know how to flange the hole, but it is good to see you working on the car which means you must be feeling much better! Have you had the chance to use the trunk pan yet?
 
I do not know how to flange the hole, but it is good to see you working on the car which means you must be feeling much better! Have you had the chance to use the trunk pan yet?
Hi Bart its been in a long while back! Check it out as it looks great! It was a ton of work lol. See Post around #162 Hope your doing well. Is your addition all completed?
 
Hi Bart its been in a long while back! Check it out as it looks great! It was a ton of work lol. See Post around #162 Hope your doing well. Is your addition all completed?
I checked out #162 and it looks awesome! I am really glad you were able to make use of that tweaked floor pan. Yes, my addition has been done for 2 years in June. If you get down this way, feel free to stop by and have a look!!!
 
With the metal work now completed its time for the bodywork. Panel weld seams have been filled with Eastwoods aluminum filler and weld seams glassed with short strand fiber. Its time to strip her down and get epoxy on.

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Starting to like the bare metal a lot! I am wondering if I should just clear coat it!

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Nice project. Great progress. I like to think that they all can be saved. I saved my 70 Roached Runner from going to the junk yard (got it for free). It was an old parts car. I slapped it together with whatever parts that I could find. It is now a sleeper with a built 383, with headers, 2 stage 125/150 nitrous plate, 3200 10" converter, built trans, 31 spline axles, 4:88 with spool, widened steelies and 275 drag radials.

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Nice project. Great progress. I like to think that they all can be saved. I saved my 70 Roached Runner from going to the junk yard (got it for free). It was an old parts car. I slapped it together with whatever parts that I could find. It is now a sleeper with a built 383, with headers, 2 stage 125/150 nitrous plate, 3200 10" converter, built trans, 31 spline axles, 4:88 with spool, widened steelies and 275 drag radials.

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Nice how’s it drive on the road with that rear and converter combo?
 
I have to say this new HF Bauer stripping surfacer tool is really fantastic. They just released this and I had to drive 30 miles to find a shop that actually had one. I stripped most of the exterior in one day using this:

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Working the floor for a while. Seams were filled with that sticky seam sealer. Thats out but its a slog. Sire wheel works good but that wire shrapnel though…..

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