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1970 road runner question

mark Symonds

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Any suggestions on what type of spark plugs and spark plug wires I should put on my recently purchased 1970 road runner 383 with headers, edelbrock aluminum heads, roller cam, 6 pack? Currently has taylor spiro pro 8mm silicone (which are 1 -2 inches short and don't "stick" very well - some silicone is gone/melted) with carbon fouled NGK FR4 plugs. Thanks!
 
Are you planning on idling it all day to the cruise-in, drag racing it or spending hours on the highway?
 
I run Firecore wires in mine, and I believe I have the the plain old RJ14YC Champion plugs.
 
I went with basic Napa precut belden wires and I prefer them to the Taylors I used to have. For plugs I use NGK R5672A-8 with aluminum heads but you may need a different heat range. 906 heads I always used the recommended champions but the trick flow heads with stroker seem to like ngk racing. I also use DEI shrink wrap on the boots at key areas because of headers.
 
What is the current compression ratio and your cam specs?

Most of my “Up Graded Engines” (LOL) run a stock heat range or one cooler. But a more racier build might like 2 steps cooler. This is often due to the compression ratio and cam size in a different environment.
 
For the wires, maybe get some "cut-to-fit" wires & use several straight boots and/or Direct Connection style multi-angle boots? Also maybe some "heat socks" on wires close to headers? Silicon core if you want to listen to your radio
 
440-6, alum (stealth) heads, Lunati 60303, stock manifolds, FBO ignition, 10:2CR, use NGK BPR5ES with mopar date coded repro wires.
 
Carbon fouled ? Ok, need to look beyond plugs and wires. In most cases, you have too much carburetion for your engine.
 
I am running a .40 over 383. mild cam. I have an MSD ready to run distributor and their custom 8.8,, wires. For plugs ac delco platinum . NO complaints
 
Good point. I have been told that the 6 packs are tough to get adjusted just right........
they are, but can be conquered with common sense, and some patience.
I have a 70 V-code (6bbl) 440.
THIS was THE turning point in being able to tune my 6bbl! An EPIPHANY!
I'll add, make sure the rods that link the center carb "slot" to the outboard carbs throttle plates does not bind nor hold the throttle plates open beyond the slightest amount for idle purposes, because ALL 3 carbs effect the idle. I knew I had trouble and needed to adjust the idle mixture screws that face forward on the front and rear carbs when the engine idled smoother with the center carb metering block idle mixture screws practically closed off to fuel. If the outboard carbs idle mixture screws are covered with lead plugs, you will have to gently pry out the lead to get to the screws, and they respond to the slightest turning vs the center carb idle screws, so go very little on the outboard carbs' screws and follow THIS guidance. Also, now I have the Promax angled screw plate on the rear carb, but I was able to use a tiny flat blade screwdriver insert in the end of a short piece of vacuum tubing (like for distributor advance) to reach the rear carb screws that face the back of the center carb. THIS is the tuning that changed my life as a 6bbl owner:
20190721_125344.jpg
 
I have a 70 V-code (6bbl) 440.
THIS was THE turning point in being able to tune my 6bbl! An EPIPHANY!
I'll add, make sure the rods that link the center carb "slot" to the outboard carbs throttle plates does not bind nor hold the throttle plates open beyond the slightest amount for idle purposes, because ALL 3 carbs effect the idle. I knew I had trouble and needed to adjust the idle mixture screws that face forward on the front and rear carbs when the engine idled smoother with the center carb metering block idle mixture screws practically closed off to fuel. If the outboard carbs idle mixture screws are covered with lead plugs, you will have to gently pry out the lead to get to the screws, and they respond to the slightest turning vs the center carb idle screws, so go very little on the outboard carbs' screws and follow THIS guidance. Also, now I have the Promax angled screw plate on the rear carb, but I was able to use a tiny flat blade screwdriver insert in the end of a short piece of vacuum tubing (like for distributor advance) to reach the rear carb screws that face the back of the center carb. THIS is the tuning that changed my life as a 6bbl owner:
View attachment 1235078
Thanks!
 
You have very good wires. Shame they are burnt.

I like the cut to fit MSD wires.

I use NGK XR5 plugs and have had good service with them.
 
You have very good wires. Shame they are burnt.
I like the cut to fit MSD wires.
I use NGK XR5 plugs and have had good service with them.
@Budnicks
The NGK brand plugs with the fine diameter electrode made of
?platinum? IIRC have always "looked" impressive to me, but I've ran Autolites because both Don at FBO Ignition and my local builder know how to "read" those easily and they are 2 of the people I would contact if/when I need plugs read. With my AFR O2 system, reading plugs may never be so in demand, freeing me up to try other brands...
Quick question so as to not hijack.
I have cut to fit silicone wires installed now, and I left "extra" length to re-cut them once I selected a wire management "system".
For those who have used a distributor cap with "male" terminals:
1: Am I right in perceiving the overall diameter of that section of the cap itself as smaller than the same cap that has female sockets for the plug wires?
2: Is that (male cap wire terminals) a more secure way to connect the end of the plug wires?
I believe that Progression Ignition (what I'm switching to from my flawlessly performing FBO system) is about to release a new design smaller diameter (possibly smaller overall) distributor and cap, and they should resolve the occasional issue with some combinations of valve covers, heads, and engines that have required "clearancing" (the nicer sounding word for "grinding off").
So, what is the most secure, male cap terminals or female?
Here are 2 MOPAR generic examples:
Looking at these 2, the male terminals cap is visibly a bit smaller in diameter overall:
Screenshot_20220203-230058_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20220203-225957_Chrome.jpg
 
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