1971 Charger 8 3/4 w/ Sure Grip and 3.23 Gears

[Rusty34]

I just bought a rotisserie restored 71 Charger and it came with a really loud howling ring and pinion. The entire rear axle assembly is all new parts and the ring gear has a Chrysler part number. The loudest howl is on coast down and it disappears somewhat when applying throttle to accelerate. We have the rear axle completely apart to see what happened and have some white lead coming to do a gear pattern check. When we were in the disassembly stage we noticed both axle bearing retaining plates were bent from something not being right inside when they tightened the axle flange nuts. The axle was assembled with ball bearing type axle bearings with non-adjustable axle bearing retainers. My question is: Should I retain these ball bearings or convert back to stock tapered roller bearing type with a RS adjuster? I feel like this probably isn't my problem with the rear axle gear noise, just noticed the departure from stock and would like to order the best parts for reassembly.

 

[R413]

I like the stock rear wheel bearings, it’s a great system. What sure grip does it have and is the center pin or buttons still inside..

If that was noisy from the ring and pinion it’s probably not going to ever be quiet.

 

[Gus chiggins]

If I'm not mistaken using the green bearings you have to discard the thrust blocks in the rear end. I believe they are called thrust blocks, or plates.

 

[Cranky]

Generally, if the howl lightens up when you get on the gas, it's an indication that the pinion is too deep into the ring gear. IIRC, you asked this same question on another thread.....? Depending on how many miles are on the ring and pinion, you can reset the pinion and if they aren't broke in yet, they should quiet down some but it's a crap shoot. For your question, I've run both the Timkens and the Green bearings and don't have a complaint with either but iirc, you have an aftermarket LSD and it might not have or cannot use a center thrust pin with it.

 

[justcruisin]

If you have stock axles the thrust will be fine to be left in there with the green bearings but after market axles can be longer and cause an issue.

 

[Gus chiggins]

If you have stock axles the thrust will be fine to be left in there with the green bearings but after market axles can be longer and cause an issue.

I was not sure of that

 

[69Bee]

If you have stock axles the thrust will be fine to be left in there with the green bearings but after market axles can be longer and cause an issue.

Without giving the red "X", I must disagree with that statement. My axles were stock, and I needed to remove the thrust buttons from the thrust block. The axles would not fit otherwise. It is widely known that "Green" axle bearings require the thrust buttons, not the thrust block, to be removed as the bearings set the axle placement.

 

[Rusty34]

I apologize for repeating info in my earlier thread. I am trying to determine which parts to order and I had a question for some of the wise old owls here. Do you prefer the stock tapered roller bearings w/RS axle end play adjuster over the aftermarket non-adjustable ball bearing type axle bearings? I think the differential may be Auburn and the axles Moser.

 

[69Bee]

I used Green, and preferred them. Either/or, just like Cranky said. If you choose to go with Green, you need to know about the thrust button removal.

 

[RemCharger]

If the axles are Moser.. I would just use the green bearings.

 

[justcruisin]

Without giving the red "X", I must disagree with that statement. My axles were stock, and I needed to remove the thrust buttons from the thrust block. The axles would not fit otherwise. It is widely known that "Green" axle bearings require the thrust buttons, not the thrust block, to be removed as the bearings set the axle placement.

The 71 sure grips were a 489 case, they have the thrust block and are fine to run greens and the thrust. The 742 with buttons may be different I am not sure. I run greens and stock axles with the thrust in place in my 71. The axles seated down and I have had no issues. I also confirmed this with Cass from Dr Diff and he said that was not a problem. Regardless you will soon know when you come to slide the axles home and I only presume the OP has a 489 case, but all good info and something to check when you bolt up the retainers.

 

[69Bee]

The 71 sure grips were a 489 case, they have the thrust block and are fine to run greens and the thrust. The 742 with buttons may be different I am not sure. I run greens and stock axles with the thrust in place in my 71. The axles seated down and I have had no issues. I also confirmed this with Cass from Dr Diff and he said that was not a problem. Regardless you will soon know when you come to slide the axles home and I only presume the OP has a 489 case, but all good info and something to check when you bolt up the retainers.

I agree with you, and I just had a big explanation typed, but realized that I have slept a few times since doing it (green bearings) and honestly can't remember which axle got the green bearings when switched between a Dana 60 and an 8 3/4", and back to the Dana because the 8 3/4" was too light and had a hell of an axle hop.

 

[Rusty34]

Yes, case is 489.

 

[451Mopar]

When using the green bearings, you either have to remove the thrust block in the diff, or grind the axle end down a bit so the bearings are not trying to push each other out of the axle.

 

[myfeather626]

I apologize for repeating info in my earlier thread. I am trying to determine which parts to order and I had a question for some of the wise old owls here. Do you prefer the stock tapered roller bearings w/RS axle end play adjuster over the aftermarket non-adjustable ball bearing type axle bearings? I think the differential may be Auburn and the axles Moser.

Use the original Timken Bearing with right hand adjuster also be sure to set your bearing using a Dial Indicator tool!And torque the end bolts per manual!