1973 challenger 440 - dies when in drive or reverse

[josephqatarcarguy]

Do you have clean, fresh gasoline in the car ?

yes

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

found one potential problem that was causing it . there is a fuel leak on the carb well guess its clean up the engine bay and want to change the carb
650 or 800 cfm guys? the carb on it now is a 750cfm

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

1k rpm idle..., either issues like vacuum leak, carb problems and not enough initial timing, or your cam isn't that small. Stock or mild cam would idle at 600 unless problems. What is the vacuum and the timing with the vac adv plugged at idle in Park, and then the vac in Drive?

there was a leak at the carb but im sure the carb wont idle at 600 . it sounds the most healthy at 1k rpm . maybe it has a bigger cam

 

[WileERobby]

found one potential problem that was causing it . there is a fuel leak on the carb well guess its clean up the engine bay and want to change the carb
650 or 800 cfm guys? the carb on it now is a 750cfm

View attachment 1456840

Stay with a 750, it's plenty

 

[pedal2themetal]

HI,
1,000 rpm's is to fast.. unless its got a big cam in it.. Idle should be like 750 at the most..
any faster then any adjustment in the carb or timing is mute.


good luck take care be safe
tim

 

[HawkRod]

By looking at your pictures, the engine compartment is very dirty and it looks like it has a very fine dust all over. It's hard to tell but it looks like your air filter is quite clogged.

Start with the basics. Get a new air filter - if the car can't get enough air there will be problems.

Next, if some idle and timing adjustments don't work, I'd try a good carb rebuild. That doesn't mean slapping some new gaskets in it, but going through EVERY small hole and orifice with a wire and carb cleaner, and then carefully reassembling it and tuning it as discussed above.

 

[4406bbl]

This^^^^^is where I would start also. A vacuum reading at 800- 1000 idle speed and about 3000 will help diagnose the brake booster and how big the cam/ healthy the engine is.

 

[Mick56]

Since it has power brakes, and the pedal is extremely hard to push, you should check the brake booster for a vacuum leak.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Never heard of that before lol.

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

HI,
1,000 rpm's is to fast.. unless its got a big cam in it.. Idle should be like 750 at the most..
any faster then any adjustment in the carb or timing is mute.


good luck take care be safe
tim

Think it's got a big cam from the exhaust note , had 440 with a lunati 604 cam and that sounded more tame !!

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

By looking at your pictures, the engine compartment is very dirty and it looks like it has a very fine dust all over. It's hard to tell but it looks like your air filter is quite clogged.

Start with the basics. Get a new air filter - if the car can't get enough air there will be problems.

Next, if some idle and timing adjustments don't work, I'd try a good carb rebuild. That doesn't mean slapping some new gaskets in it, but going through EVERY small hole and orifice with a wire and carb cleaner, and then carefully reassembling it and tuning it as discussed above.

It is quite dirty cleaning her up , getting a new carb too , hopefully solves the issues

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

Since it has power brakes, and the pedal is extremely hard to push, you should check the brake booster for a vacuum leak.

Thinking about just slapping on new booster and master , do u have a link for one with power brakes ?

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

Stay with a 750, it's plenty

I quite like the avs2 on all my daily drivers , it does not come on a 750 , think ill try the 800 ?

 

[Geoff 2]

You seem to be throwing money at problems.....where there is no problem...& not fixing the real problem.

You already have an excellent carb, which is why Mopar used them.....

Why buy a new booster if yours is OK?

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

You seem to be throwing money at problems.....where there is no problem...& not fixing the real problem.

You already have an excellent carb, which is why Mopar used them.....

Why buy a new booster if yours is OK?

haha not throwing money at her

its an edelbrock carb and down here not many who can do a proper rebuild mate

with the booster im going to fix the carb first and see if it solves the problem with my brakes ... if not a new booster cause like i said not many who can do it here

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

+ i think its a really agressive cam on her....hence the brakes ..... my RR 440 can a lunati 10230703LKLUN cam in her and she didn't sound this lumpy , here a vid of my old RR

 

[Fran Blacker]

Typically more timing at idle then backing off idle rpm will help w stalling when putting into "D"/"R". As for hard brake pedal, that's "typically" a vacuum issue or bad booster.

Maybe the booster as diesel_ iv said bad is a vacuum leak.

 

[josephqatarcarguy]

Maybe the booster as diesel_ iv said bad is a vacuum leak.

think its an aggressive cam and creating less vacuum.......

 

[4406bbl]

Why not measure the vacuum? My power brakes work with 7" of vacuum. If you have another car that runs run a hose to that and try it. I would also play with the timing before I bought a new carb, just because in the end I think that is your fix.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Yes that needs to tested. I had a 68 Dart no PB it stopped OK, my only street car no PB. You might go that if needed?