• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1973 challenger 440 - dies when in drive or reverse

josephqatarcarguy

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:31 AM
Joined
May 28, 2016
Messages
215
Reaction score
306
Location
Qatar
Hey guys , just got a 73 challenger 440 , don't know much about the engine but it's definitely got a mild sounding cam - intake - Headers carb . Car slowly dies when put in gear or reverse unless u pump gas - idles real well - what should I look at ? Car idles at 1k rpm - if I bump the rpm to 1.2 she drives much better
 
Anyone ? Checked for vaccum leaks
Could it be timing? Idle too lean? She idles real well
 
My Dart used to do that... had a cam, not overly radical, like a Whiplash. I put a "clean neutral" valve body in it made by Cope. No other changes, and it never dies now.
 
Check your timing, vacuum signal and adjust your idle accordingly. You can advance your timing until it pings under load. Then back it off a degree or so at a time until it no longer pings. 440'
 
Typically more timing at idle then backing off idle rpm will help w stalling when putting into "D"/"R". As for hard brake pedal, that's "typically" a vacuum issue or bad booster.
 
As per the previous owner the car ran perfectly
Does not mean the car has no issues now
It's NOT running perfectly now...

:rofl:
You state:
" Car slowly dies when put in gear or reverse unless u pump gas - idles real well - what should I look at ? Car idles at 1k rpm - if I bump the rpm to 1.2 she drives much better"
This could be a torque convertor symptom, all I am saying.......
Hopefully, it is a simple fix
 
As mentioned, sounds like it could just need a proper tuning. That's a fairly common occurrence for me when I initially but a fresh build in a vehicle before I've done any fine tuning, once I get everything dialed in voila, problem is gone. I'd throw a vacuum gauge on as well since you mention the brakes being really hard but poor tuning can also play into that as well. What kind of carb? I know you said you checked for vacuum leaks but did you check to make sure the secondary throttle plates are shut?
 
Does not mean the car has no issues now
It's NOT running perfectly now...

:rofl:
You state:
" Car slowly dies when put in gear or reverse unless u pump gas - idles real well - what should I look at ? Car idles at 1k rpm - if I bump the rpm to 1.2 she drives much better"
This could be a torque convertor symptom, all I am saying.......
Hopefully, it is a simple fix
Hahaha not wat I meant mate , how do I check if its the torque converter?
 
1k rpm idle..., either issues like vacuum leak, carb problems and not enough initial timing, or your cam isn't that small. Stock or mild cam would idle at 600 unless problems. What is the vacuum and the timing with the vac adv plugged at idle in Park, and then the vac in Drive?
 
I agree with others to check basic stuff first like timing and then work on carb adjustments.

Be sure when you check timing you are below 1000 RPM (most distributors start adding in centrifugal timing by 1000 RPM) and with the vacuum advance blocked off. Without knowing anything about the engine, I'd say go for about 10* BTDC as your base timing.

Once that is done, then hook it back up and put a vacuum gauge on it. Then start adjusting the idle screws to get the most vacuum and the highest idle.

I have skipped TONS of potential other things, but this is a very basic start...
 
More than likely it did not run perfect, and needs more timing, and the secondaries cracked a little to get the primaries closed, and might need the idle fuel jets made .001-.002 bigger, if it has no vacuum leaks.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top