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1973 Satellite dash removal

but in your setup, only the battery charging actually goes through the ammeter correct? I like that setup a lot, I'll probably end up gonig that route in my car actually.:)

Not in my setup, ALLWAYS is like that, the ammeter reads what comes and go from/to the batt. Whereas the batt keeps charged and your alt is able too feed all the car demands ( never being backing up by the batt ) AS FAR EVERYTHING is correctly sourced from alt side of the amm like factory made, your ammeter will never read any load. No load going throught, no heat!

Upgrade the alt and voilá! MaMopar made a big mistake using low capacity alts at iddle.

Then of course clean and tight contacts. And a reinforcement on some wires able to hold any other acc added.
 
Not in my setup, ALLWAYS is like that
The difference is that your setup eliminates most of the draw coming the other way, though, right? The factory system pulls the battery power across the ammeter because the factory alt can't keep up and uses it to power all the accessories, and your setup fixes that problem by powering the electronics straight from the alt instead is the way I am understanding the diagrams. Is that correct?

@r0yce Here's that other diagram I was thinking of, knew I had a link to it saved somewhere. Nacho posted it over on dodgecharger.com actually haha http://dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=23315.0 It's a very good one.
 
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My setup is not actually my setup, is a refreshment about what maMopar made on fleet cars with big capacity alts, just saving the bulkhead weakness to the high loads.

MyMopar actually just run the thick wire straight through the firewall on these cars. I'm talking about get a parallel path because if the existant wire is still there in good conditions, you won't need to remove but reinforce them.

Factory already feeds everything from the alt side of the game, except the starter motor... and some ocassional heavy loads devices like as far I have known, power windows.

Then with a high amps alt able to feed the car requirements, the batt will never ( or barelly ) be sucked out, what it means will never ( or barelly ) will demand to be recharged. But to make this for real you need to guarantee the bigger alt capacity at the lower speed as posible. A car what requires 50 amps to keep everything working will require 50 amps no matter the engine speed ( ignition barelly changes the load with RPMs )

After the alt is upgraded, you need to be sure the weak points will hold the car requirement, this is when wiring and terminals needs to be upgraded.

Tipically lot of ppl sourced extra added accesorioes straight to the batt pole. BIG MISTAKE, this will be read by the ammeter as a discharged batt, then begins all the stress between alt and batt, ammeter and bulkhead included. This become worst when the back and forth ammeter readings while you speed up the engine. No matter where goes the load, but as far runs loads through the ammeter, charging or discharging, will stress the ammeter unnecesarilly. Keep all the loads at alt side with a good alt and the ammeter will be mostly out of the play from any kind of reading
 
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If you are going to do a lot of work under the dash without removing it altogether, I would remove the front seat or seats before “pearl diving” much easier on your back to stretch out and lay on your back to work under the dash.
 
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