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318 - 904A Dissengagement

Moparfiend

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OK so it looks like Saturday is the big day going to yank the motor. Heads, intake/exhaust manifolds, alternator, fan, dizzy and pulleys are off.

I plan to pull off the oil sending unit as well as the water pump, starter and power steering pump. Obviously unbolt the motor mounts lol

Anything else you guys recommend doing?

My other question is what is the transmission disengagement procedure? I assume all I need to do is unbolt the bell housing bolts. Will I need to rock the motor a bit to as I pull it forward to get it disengaged? I don't plan to loosen the tranny cross member....



I have only done this with GM 4 speeds previously and know little about flex plates and torque converters falling out lol......
IMG_8320.JPG
 
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OK so it looks like Saturday is the big day going to yank the motor. Heads, intake/exhaust manifolds, alternator, fan, dizzy and pulleys are off.

I plan to pull off the oil sending unit as well as the water pump, starter and power steering pump.

Anything else you guys recommend doing?

My other question is what is the transmission disengagement procedure? I assume all I need to do is unbolt the bell housing bolts. Will I need to rock the motor a bit to as I pull it forward to get it disengaged? I don't plan to loosen the tranny cross member....



I have only done this with GM 4 speeds previously and know little about flex plates and torque converters falling out lol......
View attachment 561583
You have to take the inspection cover off and remove the 4 converter bolts/nuts also.
 
start with the above
then you do not want to "hang" the trans on the torqueconverter
pull straight back
also there may be tranny braces from the motor to the trans and exhaust pipe crossover in the way
are you on a hoist or jackstands- big heavy duty jackstands
either way you can support the trans on a jack aligned along the car axis then roll the jack back
don't for get to take notes on how the shift and kickdown connect and disconnect the speedo
obviously you want the trans connected when you remove the crossmember
for the motor bolts long extensions with a flex
do you have a shop manual
do you have a spare output shaft- the one with the U-joint- to put in so as not to get tranny fluid all over the floor?
 
start with the above
then you do not want to "hang" the trans on the torqueconverter
pull straight back
also there may be tranny braces from the motor to the trans and exhaust pipe crossover in the way
are you on a hoist or jackstands- big heavy duty jackstands
either way you can support the trans on a jack aligned along the car axis then roll the jack back
don't for get to take notes on how the shift and kickdown connect and disconnect the speedo
obviously you want the trans connected when you remove the crossmember
for the motor bolts long extensions with a flex
do you have a shop manual
do you have a spare output shaft- the one with the U-joint- to put in so as not to get tranny fluid all over the floor?
I am not planning on pulling the tranny just the motor. Was going to pull it out with a hoist and sling straight out! Have it on heavy duty jack stands now.
 
Then just take the inspection plate off and take out the torque converter bolts and then take the case to engine bolts out. Make sure you have the transmission supported and yank the engine out. Same way you do Chevy stuff.
 
Then just take the inspection plate off and take out the torque converter bolts and then take the case to engine bolts out. Make sure you have the transmission supported and yank the engine out. Same way you do Chevy stuff.
I have the inspection plate removed. Does the torque converter rotate to remove all the bolts? I will pull up my shop manual but again I am not familiar with automatics at all...is the torque converter bolted to the flywheel?
 
Torque converters are bolted to the flexplate (well some have the ring gear on the converter)
when you pull the motor a little bit you can put a piece of wire across the front of the tranny bellhousing so the converter does not come off with the motor - stays in the pump- much less messy
than having the motor tilt up with the converter attached and dump the converter fluid all over everything,
Much quicker to do the wire than the cleanup
some use small C clamps, several ways to do it.
 
Torque converters are bolted to the flexplate (well some have the ring gear on the converter)
when you pull the motor a little bit you can put a piece of wire across the front of the tranny bellhousing so the converter does not come off with the motor - stays in the pump- much less messy
than having the motor tilt up with the converter attached and dump the converter fluid all over everything,
Much quicker to do the wire than the cleanup
some use small C clamps, several ways to do it.
Is the transmission not supported without the engine? I can put a tranny jack under to support if necessary....the shop manual seems to lack this type of information on disassembly.
 
By the way thanks guys for the help on this!!! Very much appreciated!
 
Looks like there is a rear engine mount that I believe I can remove with one bolt? And I am wondering if that cross member stays mounted should support the trans right?
 
The trans. needs to be supported.View attachment 561613

Picture is worth a thousands words thanks!. So the torque converter has the starter gear teeth like a flywheel? Does it take the place of a flywheel?

And the four holes mount to the flex plate that is still on the engine right?
 
Picture is worth a thousands words thanks!. So the torque converter has the starter gear teeth like a flywheel? Does it take the place of a flywheel?

And the four holes mount to the flex plate that is still on the engine right?

You're on the right track. Here's another photo; you can see the flexplate still attached to the crankshaft.
041.JPG
 
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You're on the right track. Here's another photo; you can see the flexplate still attached the the crankshaft.View attachment 561617
OK I get it this is extremely helpful!!!! So one last question that did not get answered previously. When I start to separate the engine from trans will I need to rotate the flex-plate to get the 4 bolts out or will I be able to get in there and do it?
 
You will have to rotate the engine. Not with the key or ignition. Just rotate it by hand.
 
You will have to rotate the engine. Not with the key or ignition. Just rotate it by hand.
Got it! I will rotate from the crank side. Good thing I will have a helper! Awsome guys for the great info!!!!!!
 
I just did this on the 440 but no help and the pistons were stuck from sitting. It wasn't too difficult to get to the ones up top. I just cracked the case loose from the engine and got my long box end wrench in the gap and took them out. My engine was on the floor at the time..
 
Here's a tip; before you remove the TC bolts and separate engine from trans., mark one spot on the TC and flexplate with paint. Since the bolt holes in the TC and flexplate will only match up in one position this paint spot will help in lining them up when ready to bolt then back together. Make sense?
 
Here's a tip; before you remove the TC bolts and separate engine from trans., mark one spot on the TC and flexplate with paint. Since the bolt holes in the TC and flexplate will only match up in one position this paint spot will help in lining them up when ready to bolt then back together. Make sense?
Yes it does thank you!!! The reassembly is not super simple from what I am reading. I need to make dam sure that converter is engaged fully internally in three key ways for proper re-fitment. My concern is that during re-assembly I have to pull it out slightly to bolt it back together to the flex plate and NOT disengage one of the pump contacts of the TQ to trans....
 
Here's a tip; before you remove the TC bolts and separate engine from trans., mark one spot on the TC and flexplate with paint. Since the bolt holes in the TC and flexplate will only match up in one position this paint spot will help in lining them up when ready to bolt then back together. Make sense?
Very good tip I forgot about his..
 
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