318 Timing Cover Re-Install Question

[B3vedere267]

I am currently in the end process of installing a new cam in my 318. I ordered the Fel Pro gasket set below. I assume the shiny silver part is the harmonic balancer sleeve and the feltish looking thing is the timing cover dust seal. My question is, what order do these go on in. They were not on the engine when I took it apart. Does anyone have an exploded diagram? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Don Frelier]

You do need to use that balancer sleeve with the timing cover seal in the kit.
Otherwise it will leak.
A little oil on the sleeve and seal ridges before assembly.
Assemble the cover with bolts finger tight then roll the engine over a turn before tightening the cover.
I guess the dust seal goes on the balancer before you install it.
Never seen one, perhaps someone else can comment on it.

 

[Piranhaz]

Hope you don't mind me piggy-backing on your post, but I had the same question about the "donut". I also have a question about the cover to pully seal. So I bought the Fel-Pro kit that said was for my 66 318 Poly, but the seal is definitely different. The seal I took out was removed from the inside and has a flange on it. The new seal has no flange and appears it would get installed from the outside, which will not work on my cover. Do I need to buy a seal with flange, and if so, where would I go about doing that? Nothing shows on Napa page and Rock Auto shows the same seal I have. Here is the kit I got.

 

[451Mopar]

The sleeve is to repair an old damper that has been worn by the old seal. The Felt washer is used in the older dampers that have the dust shield/cup that the felt goes into. The seal in the kit will be fine.
Check all the threads in the cover, and repair any that appear stripped or damaged.
I like the Time-Sert thread repair inserts, but the kits are more expensive than heli-coil.
https://www.timesert.com/index.html

Most of the holes go right through so use a sealer on the bolts.

 

[Piranhaz]

The sleeve is to repair an old damper that has been worn by the old seal. The Felt washer is used in the older dampers that have the dust shield/cup that the felt goes into. The seal in the kit will be fine.
Check all the threads in the cover, and repair any that appear stripped or damaged.
I like the Time-Sert thread repair inserts, but the kits are more expensive than heli-coil.
https://www.timesert.com/index.html

Most of the holes go right through so use a sealer on the bolts.

Ok, that all makes sense, but how do I install this seal from the inside? There's no lip or flange surface to use to press against because it's made to go in from the outside. Did that make sense?

 

[451Mopar]

Picture of cover would help. They changed over the years.
The older cover should look like post #11 here:
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/318-oil-leak.487197/

 

[Piranhaz]

Picture of cover would help. They changed over the years.
The older cover should look like post #11 here:
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/318-oil-leak.487197/

This should help.

 

[B3vedere267]

Which way does the seal go? With the metal lip facing down?

 

[Piranhaz]

Looking at my old TC cover the seal presses in as you have it laying in the pic.

I was able to find a new seal that looks like my old one. The one they send in the kit is for the newer TC cover and presses in front the outside. Won't be able to use the sleeve though I don't think. Way too tight.

 

[Ron H]

I was able to find a new seal that looks like my old one. The one they send in the kit is for the newer TC cover and presses in front the outside. Won't be able to use the sleeve though I don't think. Way too tight.

My old brain is foggy - I say stop for more comment...the old seal in my old TC 'looks' like it goes in as I mentioned; BUT this doesn't make sense to me inserting the seal this way the cupped side is the side up with seals I've worked with over the decades. The old TC seal may be of a different configuration....

 

[Piranhaz]

My old brain is foggy - I say stop for more comment...the old seal in my old TC 'looks' like it goes in as I mentioned; BUT this doesn't make sense to me inserting the seal this way the cupped side is the side up with seals I've worked with over the decades. The old TC seal may be of a different configuration....

This is my first poly engine, so I'm learning as I go, LOL

 

[66 Sat]

The seal goes in from the inside with the small spring that holds the seal in place facing inside (toward the oil).
Knock it in carefully with a seal installer tool (if you have one). Otherwise a block of wood will work. Be careful to ensure the seal goes in square as otherwise it will leak.
I put a thin smear of black rtv silicone around the outside of the metal part of the seal before I knocked it in, but I don't think it would leak from this area anyway.
In the photo below you can see a small twist in the rubber seal - I installed it slightly twisted and couldn't rectify it, so I bought another seal and did it again.

 

[Ron H]

This is my first poly engine, so I'm learning as I go, LOL

Lol, back in the day (I’m a geezer) wouldn’t touch a 318 as many wouldn’t, considered good boat anchors. But those motors were durable as a rock. And not much until the past say 20 years with attraction building them. They have a lot of potential depending how much you want to invest and more parts are available. When I bought my ’63 in 1995 the motor ran nice, only did a few simple things to wake it up some putting off a major re-do until 2016. Lots of cash and frankly, some disappointment after all was done. The build wasn’t far enough to gain the perfo I was expecting. Still it gets up and going; more notably top end. I think there’s something I’ve missed to wake it up more; MO. BB guys (I used to be among the group) have their preferences for performance. As a geezer – well ain’t looking to do burn-outs as much as cruising. Did enough of that before my hair went gray.
Back on track: the seal on my old timing cover isn’t flanged like yours resembling the non-cupped side up. Looking at my FSM it describes the lip of the seal needing to ‘face the source of oil’ – SO if I understand this – the cupped side would be inserted as shown in the photo above. If you flip over the old flanged seal you have – is the bottom cupped? Anyway, wait to hear more.

 

[Ron H]

Lol, there ya got it - from 66 Sat.

 

[66 Sat]

Just re-reading the thread and I may be talking **** in my post above.
Perhaps someone installed the newer style cover on your engine - mine looked different when the seal was out. Perhaps you have the newer cover where the seal gets installed from the outside?

 

[Ron H]

Just re-reading the thread and I may be talking **** in my post above.
Perhaps someone installed the newer style cover on your engine - mine looked different when the seal was out. Perhaps you have the newer cover where the seal gets installed from the outside?

I did my TC cover some years back and be damned if I can recall what I did. In any case, I’d think the way the seal sets in would be the same. My old cover that went to crap still has the seal intact and shows as you show. Deal is that seal lip facing the source of oil.

 

[Piranhaz]

Just re-reading the thread and I may be talking **** in my post above.
Perhaps someone installed the newer style cover on your engine - mine looked different when the seal was out. Perhaps you have the newer cover where the seal gets installed from the outside?

My cover is original. Seal gets installed from the inside. But that's how you're looks also?

 

[66 Sat]

It's that one photo you posted below that looks different to mine.

There wasn't the inner flat metal surface around the hole where the seal sits.
I'm sure it was just one big hole and you could knock the seal all the way through if you weren't careful.
Or is that part of the old seal?

 

[Piranhaz]

I can't share a new pic from my phone but that flat surface is part of the casting.

 

[Basket case]

that sleeve is called a Speedi Sleeve by CR. Used to sell alot of those at the IH dealership. For and badly groved surface needing a seal.