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440 Source Alternators

nutz4spd

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Has anyone used an alternator from 440source.com? How is their quality? Has it lasted and produced a good charge? I'm thinking of picking one of theirs up since it is internally regulated and do away with the junk on the firewall. Since I'm still battling the flickering lights I'd rather go this route then trying another VR or Alt.
 
Purple Beeper is correct, it could be a ground. Do you have a real rebuild place near you? Not AutoZone or nap, well maybe a Napa if they rebuild in house, but somewhere with some expertise to test it for you.

That, or do you have or can borrow a known good one to test with?
 
I have no issues with 440Source - bought a fair bit of their offerings over the years. HOWEVER, for something like an alternator I'd be inclined to buy local simply for the ease of returning it if it didn't work or for warranty issues.
 
Has anyone used an alternator from 440source.com? How is their quality? Has it lasted and produced a good charge? I'm thinking of picking one of theirs up since it is internally regulated and do away with the junk on the firewall. Since I'm still battling the flickering lights I'd rather go this route then trying another VR or Alt.
I'd go with POWERMASTER. Made in the USA with HD windings. There is a video tour of their shop somewhere. (google) Plus the y have higher endurance and output for HD audio systems, etc. I just got one for my 62 Polara.
 
I'd go with POWERMASTER. Made in the USA with HD windings. There is a video tour of their shop somewhere. (google) Plus the y have higher endurance and output for HD audio systems, etc. I just got one for my 62 Polara.
Out of curiosity, what kind of windings are "HD WINDINGS"? HIGHER ENDURANCE IS A RELATIVE TERM. The windings (more specifically stator wire and size) only contribute to half of the alternator's output.....the diodes are the other component that convert the generated AC voltage and current by the stator to DC voltage and current by the diode assembly, to charge the battery and operate the vehicle. The voltage regulator, albeit an internal or external device, simply controls the excitation voltage on the alternator's rotating field, which in turn, controls the alternator's output....its that simple.
As an alternator is a simple device, WHY NOT rebuild it yourself? Each component is individually replaceable and is relatively easy to access. IF, YOU CAN INSTALL A NEW CAMSHAFT OR REBUILDING A REAR END ASSEMBLY, which is 100x more complex than rebuilding an alternator, there is no EXCUSE for not doing it yourself.....just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON
 
I have the 100A 440 Source alternator. It's a nice piece and works well but it does not come in any other color than black if that matters to you.

Chuck (snook)
 
My flickering lights were caused by internal wire corrosion. Insulating coating looked OK but inside copper was discolored with some green, also had voltage drop from the key. Ran new wire and I'm using a key activated solenoid connected to battery for 12v reference. Lights solid now.
 
Out of curiosity, what kind of windings are "HD WINDINGS"? HIGHER ENDURANCE IS A RELATIVE TERM. The windings (more specifically stator wire and size) only contribute to half of the alternator's output.....the diodes are the other component that convert the generated AC voltage and current by the stator to DC voltage and current by the diode assembly, to charge the battery and operate the vehicle. The voltage regulator, albeit an internal or external device, simply controls the excitation voltage on the alternator's rotating field, which in turn, controls the alternator's output....its that simple.
As an alternator is a simple device, WHY NOT rebuild it yourself? Each component is individually replaceable and is relatively easy to access. IF, YOU CAN INSTALL A NEW CAMSHAFT OR REBUILDING A REAR END ASSEMBLY, which is 100x more complex than rebuilding an alternator, there is no EXCUSE for not doing it yourself.....just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON
I should have said they offer higher amp versions as opposed to HD windings. Their model 7018 has 65 amps/idle. 100 amps/WOT compared to Chinese junk.
 
My flickering lights were caused by internal wire corrosion. Insulating coating looked OK but inside copper was discolored with some green, also had voltage drop from the key. Ran new wire and I'm using a key activated solenoid connected to battery for 12v reference. Lights solid now.
Contact Bill & Rose Evans and get an "engine forward " wire harness from them. Only around 100 bucks....well worth it...
 
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