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440 starter causing grief. Help!

No issues with the Carter Competition Series style
 
It’s official:

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Hello again. I’ve been picking away at this trans removal for awhile now. I’ve been sick as a dog recently and also busy with work, family life, yada yada.
Now everything is disconnected other than the bellhousing bolts. The trans cross member is still in but nuts are taken off.
I got the 2 bottom bellhousing out but the others are proving to be a real bastard to get a wrench to. My question is: can I remove the trans cross member and let the trans tilt down to get at the bolts or am I going to run into problems?
 
You need to hold the back of engine up, you might snap bellhousing bolt holes. Do you have torque convertor unbolted from flex plate, that's a must. Put a dab of paint on TC and flexplate because it only goes together one wayl Put a jack under trans pan, with a flat plywood 12"x12"on jack.
 
You need a long extension and flex head socket to get to a few bolts. But first, remove the 4 converter bolts. If you get better access tilting the motor a little be cautious the fan doesn't run into the radiator.
 
I do (or undo) all the bellhousing bolts with a long extension and a flex socket from under the car. Easy as pie! ruffcut
 
You need to hold the back of engine up, you might snap bellhousing bolt holes. Do you have torque convertor unbolted from flex plate, that's a must. Put a dab of paint on TC and flexplate because it only goes together one wayl Put a jack under trans pan, with a flat plywood 12"x12"on jack.
Thanks, Fran. Yes I managed to get the 4 bolts out of the TC and gave one part a shot of paint.
If I need to hold the back of the engine up, can I let it sag down a little bit to get at those bolts?
 
I do (or undo) all the bellhousing bolts with a long extension and a flex socket from under the car. Easy as pie! ruffcut
Really? I’m envious of your skill, ruffcut. I’ll give it another go tomorrow but I just can’t imagine getting to all those bolts. But I will try!
 
The engine will rock backwards when the bell housing is removed.
I've found that a short piece of 2"x4" set up on the steering center link is enough to keep it from moving too far.
 
Drop the rear of transmission, 2x4 on center link jack under trans pan
Transmission extension usually about "18 long, and I usually add a 6" wobble extension (bulge in the square drive) to the end to allow socket to pivot. Tape the 2 extensions together so they stay together , nothing worse than having to pick them up over and over.
With the long reach you will be back around the trans cross member and easier to turn rachet.
Like @ruffcut said
 
The engine will rock backwards when the bell housing is removed.
I've found that a short piece of 2"x4" set up on the steering center link is enough to keep it from moving too far.
Hi Don. Can you explain or illustrate your 2x4 trick? Not quite sure what you mean.
 
Looking forward towards the front of the car .

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I appreciate the drawing, Don. I kinda figured that’s what you meant. However there is about a 3/8” gap between my oil pan and centre link. I may have to use a thick piece of steel or aluminum or even just ratchet strap it in place somehow.
 
Got the 727 down and out (sort of) of the charger and hit another road block.
How does a guy get the shift cable off the trans? I took the little snap ring off the pivot point and wiggled the **** out of it but it won’t come out.

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