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440 starter causing grief. Help!

you could loosen that 1/2 bolt and pop of the kickdown bracket.
 
Loosen the 1/4 inch pinch bolt and lift the kickdown bracket off the shaft.
You can't pull the shaft out as it's part of thevalve body.
 
Loosen the 1/4 inch pinch bolt and lift the kickdown bracket off the shaft.
You can't pull the shaft out as it's part of thevalve body.
Aha! I didn’t realize that would take it off.
Thank you, sir!
 
TA DA!
Thanks for the help, everyone! I’ll probably need just as much coaching getting it back in haha

image.jpg
 
The linkage in post #38 doesn't look right?? It could be right it just looks ugly.
 
The linkage in post #38 doesn't look right?? It could be right it just looks ugly.
I had removed the plastic clip that holds the cable to the bracket and it swung around. At that point I didn’t know about the pinch bolt (clamp) to take cable off.
 
I’m putting this rascally 727 back in the car. I have the 2 bottom bolts finger tight and my refurb mini starter cradled in the header tubes. However I just remembered about the starter plate. Will I be using it again with the new starter? Judging by the imprints on it, it goes between the bell housing and block, correct? Laying on cold cement floor, first-timer amateur hour. Any advice appreciated.

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I don't generally put those back in. Just in all original cars.
Never used one on a ministarter personally.
Had 1 come in not long ago where the plate was rubbing on the flex plate bolts. Annoying to say the least.
 
Mini starter but you need to pull off the plastic cover and remove the wire extension. Around $60.
Also could be the copper connection under copper stud.
Hi Fran. I’ve got to the point where im putting the starter on and I can see it’s not sitting flush. Is the plastic cover you mentioned what I have circled in the photo? I believe that is what is hitting the block but awfully tough to see. Does it just pop off?

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Yes. Pop off persuade better, there's the same wire terminals under plastic Might need to trim larger terminal stud in some cases. Check for clearance between starter and block. Some need a a little grinding some guys have said, mine didn't.
 
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Yes pull the cap and remove adapter piece.
 
Ok thanks guys. It should be something i can do without taking the transmission out again i hope. Like I said…. amateur hour over here.
Anyway, shuttin’er down for the day. Wodka time!
Happy new year!
 
Ok thanks guys. It should be something i can do without taking the transmission out again i hope. Like I said…. amateur hour over here.
Anyway, shuttin’er down for the day. Wodka time!
Happy new year!
Learn by doing!
 
There’s always something… I took those extensions off the starter and installed it and it fits beautifully! I then went to mock fit the headers and they weren’t lining up where they need to be. I crawled back under the car and realized they’re hitting the mini starter! I think it’s the part i have circled in the photo. Is that long bolt/rod necessary? Could I grind off that edge sticking out? Should I try dent the header tube? Looking for options that don’t involve taking the transmission back out.
I’m just about ready to take a saws-all to them friggin headers haha

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Cave in the headers or get a different starter.

I did warn you...
 
In the old days, Jack Davis (RIP) told me you could dent the
header up to a 1/3 of the diameter of the tube with no adverse
effects to the flow.
After his retirement from running Hooker Headers Design Dept.,
he designed the stepped headers and merged collectors in the 1990's
that I still reproduce and replicate on our Nationally Competitive Stock
and Superstock cars = I trust his advise.
Dent the headers if needed is my opinion for what it is worth.
 
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You can do a combination of grinding the corner off, and caving the pipe in. No biggie either way. You are definitely not the first guy. A few c- hairs of clearance would be nice.
 
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