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It’s the front carb leak . The back one have no issue .
i would remove the carb assemble it and then check if you can blow in there while somebody squeezes 5psi out of you! this way you know nothing is hanging the float when it's assembled!other than that has to be a crack in the casting!
I will make a video tomorrow where you can see the fuel come out of the small sheet cover who holds the metering inside of the driver side , and also on the passenger side on the flap linkage of the secondary s
Why did you change accelerator pumps?
The blue ones that come with the rebuild kits won't last very long especially with 10% ethanol. The engine wasn't idling right not long after rebuilding the carbs and watching the squirters, they were inconsistent. Read on here that the change to the vitron was the answer. Definitely did the trick, going on two years now. Back in the 80s Chrysler had a recall on accelerator pumps for the same reason.
I ask because I've always wanted to try a different pump on my edelbrock 1411; I wanted to see if I could get a pump rated at a higher discharge than the stock one...
Thanks , I know this video . Exactly so it looks on my one, the fuel came out on the vents. But I not have any dirt in the needle and seats , and if I turn the top with the floats and everything installed on the head and blow with my mouth air in the inline fuel line the needle and seats are fully seal, I not can blow any air inside . Float level is also adjust on 7/16”
With 1407 and 1411 you have to use the 1467 part number . There are also available 1468 and the blue 1470 plunger , but these two plungers for other edelbrock models
That's mainly done with the position of the linkage on the pump's arm as to which of the three holes you have it in. The other way can be with the size of the squirter. The spring on the accelerator pump has a bearing on the shot also and I believe the vitron ones do have a stiffer spring. It's been awhile since I've researched this.
Only thing I can say is that when you put it back together you are getting another piece of dirt under the needle again. Or the needle is worn just enough to seal one time and not again. Maybe you can't blow 5 lbs of pressure? Try another needle and seat and see what happens. Just make sure that float is not taking on fuel. As soon as you remove it dry it off and look for wet fuel around the seams where it's been soldered. Good Luck!
Thanks you all!!! It’s fixed! Crazy you right one float was 3/4 full with fuel , that’s the reason why they problem starts slowly and day by day the idling and stoping on red light s goes more bad. Because the one float goes heavy and heavier each day and more fuel running out. Yesterday I not regonize that one float have fuel inside because the float are full try on still now when you removing the float and shake it and move it in all sides no fuel comes out of it . Crazy how it can cones in better never out again ???? Self sealing hole ot what ? Crazy
Cool Deal Jack! Check your oil in the crankcase for fuel.
I think is ok , no special fuel smelling on the oil if I check on the oil level dip stick. And also no higher level . Or you prefer a motor oil change ?
If it was my hemi, I'd change the oil. Once it's out, you can get a better look at it, and either save for re-use if it's ok, or use in something else. We have a saying, "better safe than sorry". Edit: glad to hear you have solved it .
"crazy I right" never heard that from a german before Asians all the time! Do the oil change whether you think it needs it or not! I don't want to here "crazy I right", again!
Change accelerator pump and floats ! Seam on the float could be sucking in fuel causing the problem. While your at it change fuel filter too.
A float with a hole below the liquid level in the bowl breathes with temperature change. As you drive, the fuel warms and the float with it. The air inside the float expands and escapes. After shut-down, when the fuel cools, and the float with it, the air inside contracts, and since the hole is below the liquid level, the fuel moves into the float. Now it it is heavy. Next time you drive, it repeats. and the float gets heavier still. and so on. To get the fuel out, you have to heat the float. If you use flame you have more courage than I do, but the hole should show up right away.lol. I use a hair dryer or sunshine. But finding the hole is a little harder. And re-soldering it is also very tricky. I made a mess of a few floats before I gave up, and just daubed the hole with a two-part epoxy.If you get the float hot and then sealed, then it collapses as it cools.
Very interesting , and now makes sense for me it’s start a up with very small amount of fuel out of the carburator and each drive ( day) goes more and more fuel out , and the idling ot stoping on a red light goes to be a war with gas and brake pedal to keep the engine running ! Thanks so much , I take one float of my other 750 Edelbrock , and now will order some spare just in case