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64 Polara Gen3 Turbo Build

Turbo fab in process

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You'll probably need a heat shield for the turbo if its that close to the hood. But you probably know that.
 
You'll probably need a heat shield for the turbo if its that close to the hood. But you probably know that.
Yup. All the hot side will be wrapped too. I decided to step up to the 88mm turbo.

Posted via Topify on Android
 
How many pounds of boost do you plan to throw at it? Just out of curiousity with your build experience, what is a safe level of boost on a stock engine? 10 psi?
 
it varies. On a stock 6.1 about 7.5 with good tuning. On a 5.7 about 8-9. On a 5.7 VVT about 6.5. This motor is forged to the hilt, main studs, head studs, arp bolts.....I would say 16-18 PSI on C16 and probably 8-10 on pump gas. It should make 850-900 on pump and 1100ish on C16 with this bigger turbo. THat is wheel horsepower, not flywheel
 
Is there a support for the turbo built into the inner fender bar? Kinda hard to tell.

It appears the turbo in the pics is a T4 housing. For the hp you're talking about, you'll need something bigger.

I'm skeptical of 1100rwhp at 18psi. That math may be a bit optimistic. Close, but not quite.
 
it varies. On a stock 6.1 about 7.5 with good tuning. On a 5.7 about 8-9. On a 5.7 VVT about 6.5. This motor is forged to the hilt, main studs, head studs, arp bolts.....I would say 16-18 PSI on C16 and probably 8-10 on pump gas. It should make 850-900 on pump and 1100ish on C16 with this bigger turbo. THat is wheel horsepower, not flywheel

Thanks LX. I have been considering doing a tailpipe turbo on my Ram to run around 6 psi. But I don't think I can afford to build the setup. Those darn turbos can get $$.

Herr_Poopschitz,
I read an article not that long ago with a stock junkyard motor making 600+ on something like 10 psi. If he put the right combo together I think he could be at around 1100 with 18 psi and an optimized tune. Either way I'm staying tuned in to find out!
 
Is there a support for the turbo built into the inner fender bar? Kinda hard to tell.

It appears the turbo in the pics is a T4 housing. For the hp you're talking about, you'll need something bigger.

I'm skeptical of 1100rwhp at 18psi. That math may be a bit optimistic. Close, but not quite.

It just depends on intake charge temps. If I can get the charge temps way down and run some good gas, and the timing holds, the sky is the limit. Whatever the big number is will just be for show anyway. I plan on turning it down to about 800 wheel horsepower for driving on the street. The only time it will be on kill is when I go for the ET runs or the texas mile. I will put a 7# spring in it and control the boost with C02 on the backside of the gate.

There is a support. Those pics are the first fab attempt. A much wider and strong bracket is already on there as we have picked the final turbo placement now. I will post pics in the next week or so as week make progress
 
It just depends on intake charge temps. If I can get the charge temps way down and run some good gas, and the timing holds, the sky is the limit. Whatever the big number is will just be for show anyway. I plan on turning it down to about 800 wheel horsepower for driving on the street. The only time it will be on kill is when I go for the ET runs or the texas mile. I will put a 7# spring in it and control the boost with C02 on the backside of the gate.

There is a support. Those pics are the first fab attempt. A much wider and strong bracket is already on there as we have picked the final turbo placement now. I will post pics in the next week or so as week make progress

Temp is just one variable associated w/ ideal gas law.
What turbo have you decided on? Compressor map?

Planning any aero mods? Not sure I'd feel comfy doing the mile in a stock bodied car w/ substantial power...ha
 
We will put a rear wing on it for downforce. The car is 4 link with tubular a arms, drop spindles, and front and rear sway bars. I will put a chin spoiler on the front to move air as well. I plan on sitting it down as low as it will go when it comes mile time. With coil overs at all 4 corners I should have a fair amount of adjustment. Mostly spitballing the possibilities at this point. Haven't put tons of thought into who one would accomplish the mile in a 1000+ horsepower 64 dodge. I am sure it would take considerable effort though.

as far as the turbo, its a comp 433600-0014 88/79 1.15 AR. I didnt see compressor maps on their site. We talked to the guys at comp before deciding on this turbo. It should be in the sweet spot of the map. As far as the ideal gas law comment, charge temps are a result of pressure and volume. The style of exhaust, efficiency of the turbo or the compressor map, and cam selection all play a role in those things. There is intake charge temp and cylinder charge temp to consider. The quality of the intake, heads, and camshaft profile all playing a major role in resulting cylinder charge temp. The lower the intake charge temp, the lower the the cylinder charge temp starting point. Then it becomes a question of valve timing, overlap etc to determine the resulting cylinder charge temp. Probably pretty simple stuff for someone like you and me, but I bet we just lost some folks
 
Say what!!!!!


Lol!!

More air in, more air out, =more power.....lets keep it simple for us Sesame Street guys, lol!!!
 
Might have a bit of exhaust pressure on 'kill', but looks like a good all round choice...:icon_thumright:
 
Say what!!!!!


Lol!!

More air in, more air out, =more power.....lets keep it simple for us Sesame Street guys, lol!!!

Not always the case though. You can make a ton of hot air outside the efficiency of the compressor and loose power because charge temps become too high, egt's get too high......then instead of 20 or 30 horsepower per pound of boost you start getting like 5 per pound.
 
After about 10 days of messing with this thing I am so beyond frustrated. I ended up spending 700 at the fab shop and literally getting nothing useable for my money. Slowing down an rethinking things. I am trying to get my hands on a new whipple blower. I may go that route. I have a magnuson tvs 2300 sitting here I could use. It is going to tap out about 850 though in its current configuration. Decisions decisions.
 
After about 10 days of messing with this thing I am so beyond frustrated. I ended up spending 700 at the fab shop and literally getting nothing useable for my money.

What happened?!?!
 
Or you could always go big block. Oh, wait... :laughing11:
 
If it was easy we would all have an 850HP turbo Hemi in our cars. Sometimes its good to take a week or two off from the project then come back to it. It can give you new perspective to relax and let yourself get creative, those inspirational thoughts get drowned out by frustration. :icon_eyes:
 
Really what it comes down to is my "good guy" deal on the fab work turned into a $100 an hour adventure with someone moving at a snails pace racking up $800 to make a fricken bracket. Too much money, too much time. The way it was getting done would have forced me to make one off EVERYTHING for the accessory drive. I want to make a **** ton of power. But I want to enjoy the car and drive it. Money isnt the object, sometimes from a complexity stand point you hacve to stand back and say, "is this what I really want to end up with?"
 
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