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66 Belvedere II Hemi Project
- Thread starter Nxcoupe
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I’m assuming they told you the components on the relay panel can be shuffled around some to maybe get you some clearance. I’m still not sure what the exact orientation was that Chrysler used originally. 55 years later it seems to vary on every car now.
ckessel
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If you hadn't caught that, you would've had the hottest car around.
The way I have it currently is the factory orientation. I had the original panel and now I know why that was removed and a 383 harness on it.
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That's likely why Chrysler used that bracket on the firewall for the booster on Hemi cars. As well as clearance for valve cover.
Ok, so did the adjustment Fran showed me and it worked. Bleed the brakes and only had one leak, tightened the fitting and got solid streams out of the rear. I got the rears adjusted pretty close and pedal feels firm. I started it and car wouldn't move with light pressure on the pedal. I'm happy, but the pedal seems very close to the floor at rest.
Brakes are done. I adjusted the brake light switch, what a treat. Not as easy as it sounds. I had to get my wife to come out and tell me if the lights were out after tightening it up. Finally got it as best as it can be. I pulled it back in the bay and installed the washer pump and reservoir. I also replaced the trans output shaft seal that was leaking. Can't wait to drive it.
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It runs, it drives, it shifts, IT STOPS!
lol. It was fun. Just up the street to the gas station and back to my house. The camshaft kills some of the vacuum til you let off and it decels, then they are very easy to push. I need to clean all the parts out of it and take it for a longer drive. Waited all week for this!
lol. It was fun. Just up the street to the gas station and back to my house. The camshaft kills some of the vacuum til you let off and it decels, then they are very easy to push. I need to clean all the parts out of it and take it for a longer drive. Waited all week for this!
Sweet!!!!!!!
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Nice reward for your diligence.
Today I decided to pull out the sending unit and bend/modify the float arm so the gauge would read more accurately. I used a meter for testing resistance and a small set if vice grips with a pair of pliers to bend the float rod. It was a bitch but I got it to read 1 ohm at float all the way up. I put it back together, hit the key, gauge doesn't move. I left the key on and ran it back up so I could test the power. Nothing. No voltage on the sending unit wire. I hooked it all back up and pulled the cluster. Found some loose nuts on the gauge, pulled the power supply and looked at the connections, everything is a bit rusty but I loosened and then tightened them all up. Going out after dinner and test it. Replacing the headlight switch while it's apart.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Gotta love old cars testing your mechanical/troubleshooting skills.
Yep, it does keep my skillset honed.
I went out and put it back together, fuel level is showing just under 3/4 tank, and temp gauge now works. Radio, however, stopped working for some reason. I believe I'll need to trace the power and grounds as it almost looks like the harness was an add on. I think I need to take the thing for a ride with a gas can in the trunk and drive til it runs out and see what the gauge says. I believe it's reading a bit high, but as long as it shows empty when it's empty, I'm good with it.
Fuel and temp gauges seem to be working really well. Fuel gauge settled in at 1/2 tank which is what I guessed it should be at. The temp gauge has raised a concern, engine is running hot now according to the gauge. I was out under the hood with it running when I heard a bunch of clattering and ticking from the engine, ran around and checked oil pressure, it was 0!, shut it off and checked the oil. It was full. Let it sit for a few, started it back up and it had 25 psi or so at idle. I think the relief valve stuck open as it never did that in the past. Now to address the overheating issue. Could be thermostat, could be radiator. Yawn, yet another issue to address, along with oil change.
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Either undo the nut and pull the valve out and clean it, or change the whole pump. This is not a fun occurance if it happens in traffic. I had it happen to me once. I am assuming big block.
Yep, that sounds like a good idea. I may price a new pump, easy enough to get to it.
Today I dug out the aluminum radiator I ordered for the 500 back in June and didn't receive until September. I got the fan shroud I got for the Belvedere since it doesn't have one on it now. I'm going to remove the thermostat and see what temp it is, make sure somebody didn't put a 195* in it. If it has the 180 it should have, then I'm going to swap radiators and fan shroud into it. Hope that will cool things down a bit. I want to be able to drive it and enjoy it before the snow flies. Pics when I dig into it.
Had to order pipe bushings to go from 1/8" pipe up to the 1/4" pipe holes in the radiator, and order a petcock to go into the 1/4" hole. Also got a thermostat gasket. Nothing in stock. TBC tomorrow. Old radiator was a plugged up POS.
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