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66 Coronet with fresh 512 finally finished

JackpotJim

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:39 PM
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
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Location
Brainerd Minnesota
After spending 21 months putting together a 400-512 power plant for my 66 440 Coronet I have the car back on the street. The 400-512 is a 11.5 to 1 stroker with TF 270's, Howards Cam solid 275, 276 duration 645 lift, TTI 2 1/8 headers and Pro Systems 1050 Dominator. MSD Digital 6 plus with MSD billet distributor, TCI full manual 727 with transbrake and 4200 9.5 street strip converter and 4.10 rear gear. As you can guess I built this car for both the track and street. I asked a lot of questions at the start of the build, I figured I should share the end result. Once break in on the motor is complete I'll bring to the local track and post the results.
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Awesome sound. Well done.
I'm just wondering if an electric water pump has long term reliability on the street.
 
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Uhhh, ya that sounds a bit more strip than street! Mean machine!
Lower 10s all worked out
 
Great sound! It feels real good to complete a project. I'm seeing light at the end of my own tunnel!
Mike
 
:thumbsup:
How far are you into the break in?
You might want to keep the idle speed higher early on to ensure the lifters get good oil and polish.
 
Car looks great, sounds great, and I'm curious what it'll do with those 270's on it. For sure post some timeslips when you get em. What ratio in the rear?
 
After spending 21 months putting together a 400-512 power plant for my 66 440 Coronet I have the car back on the street. The 400-512 is a 11.5 to 1 stroker with TF 270's, Howards Cam solid 275, 276 duration 645 lift, TTI 2 1/8 headers and Pro Systems 1050 Dominator. MSD Digital 6 plus with MSD billet distributor, TCI full manual 727 with transbrake and 4200 9.5 street strip converter. As you can guess this is a car that spends time at both the track and street. I asked a lot of questions at the start of the build, I figured I should share the end result. Once break in on the motor is complete I'll bring to the local track and post the results.
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That is super sweet! I'm putting a 66 coronet 500 together and was wondering what the low hemi scoop would look like on that hood, that is wicked!! And I'll be finding one for my car, that's for sure.
 
Awesome sound. Well done.
I'm just wondering if an electric water pump has long term reliability on the street.
Yep, I wonder the same on the electric pump. If i find the correct water pump belt pully I might switch it back. Right now with the 110 amp alt everything is working well.
 
:thumbsup:
How far are you into the break in?
You might want to keep the idle speed higher early on to ensure the lifters get good oil and polish.
I have about 5 hours on the motor, break in was un-eventful. Ran a series of four 15 minute 3000 rpm run periods in the garage. Been driving it on county roads at about 50 to 60 mph or about 2800-3200 rpm.
 
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I have about 5 hours on the motor, break in was un-eventful. Ran a series or four 15 minute 3000 rpm run periods in the garage. Been driving it on county roads at about 50 to 60 mph or about 2800-3200 rpm.
Time to get out and stand on the throttle.
The rings need to be "bedded" in, as it were.
 
What a beautiful car! And sounds good too. Have great fun with it.

Ragnar in Iceland
 
I have about 5 hours on the motor, break in was un-eventful. Ran a series of four 15 minute 3000 rpm run periods in the garage. Been driving it on county roads at about 50 to 60 mph or about 2800-3200 rpm.
Followed your story and glad to see its finished and running well. Did you ever get a time on it? I built a 12.5;1 511 from a tall filled 400 block. I used a solid flat tappet 270@50/.650" on 110(now a solid roller 269@50/.660 on 108) and Victor E heads ported to 330cc and flow [email protected] lift. Used a indy 4500 intake with a 1150 DOM. In an A body with 8" 5400 727 and 4.10 using cal tracs and weighing 3380 went [email protected]. Street/strip deal, so decided to do something i'v only dreamt about since a teenager, maybe back future than that. I installed a indy T ram with twin 700ish carbs square jetted it runs so good on the street i dont think fuel injection could beat the street ability dependability of this set up. Ran it again and lost 2 tenths and 2 mph in the 1/8 and the 1/4. I did add a lot of weight with the cast T ram and carbs, maybe 35-50# and also ran it thru the exhaust last time which is another at least 50# and a humid day on top of all of that. So, now with the roller cam want to give it another try with header extensions only and maybe 950 carbs, will see. A 9 is on the horizon.
 
Followed your story and glad to see its finished and running well. Did you ever get a time on it? I built a 12.5;1 511 from a tall filled 400 block. I used a solid flat tappet 270@50/.650" on 110(now a solid roller 269@50/.660 on 108) and Victor E heads ported to 330cc and flow [email protected] lift. Used a indy 4500 intake with a 1150 DOM. In an A body with 8" 5400 727 and 4.10 using cal tracs and weighing 3380 went [email protected]. Street/strip deal, so decided to do something i'v only dreamt about since a teenager, maybe back future than that. I installed a indy T ram with twin 700ish carbs square jetted it runs so good on the street i dont think fuel injection could beat the street ability dependability of this set up. Ran it again and lost 2 tenths and 2 mph in the 1/8 and the 1/4. I did add a lot of weight with the cast T ram and carbs, maybe 35-50# and also ran it thru the exhaust last time which is another at least 50# and a humid day on top of all of that. So, now with the roller cam want to give it another try with header extensions only and maybe 950 carbs, will see. A 9 is on the horizon.
I've had it at the track once since installing the 512, I've been fighting a rear main seal leak that I finally solved this past fall. Since I didn't have a cage in the car I was limited to running 11.50 or slower. I launched without use of the transbrake and shifted at 5000. I ran it to about 900 feet with a ET of 11.92 @ 88 mph. I should have a cage in it by June and will be able to let it eat without getting the evil eye from the tech guys. Congrats on your low ET's. I see a lot of 9.00 in your future.
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Thank you and nice looking ride. Really like that color. About the rear seal. When i built my 511 i clocked that rear seal to 12 and 6 o'clock, used plenty of black RTV. The seal did not leak a drop first season, but has leaked ever since. What is the trick to get those sealed for good.
 
I've had it at the track once since installing the 512, I've been fighting a rear main seal leak that I finally solved this past fall. Since I didn't have a cage in the car I was limited to running 11.50 or slower. I launched without use of the transbrake and shifted at 5000. I ran it to about 900 feet with a ET of 11.92 @ 88 mph. I should have a cage in it by June and will be able to let it eat without getting the evil eye from the tech guys. Congrats on your low ET's. I see a lot of 9.00 in your future. View attachment 1618467
I'm putting a 66 coronet together and have been wondering what it would look like with that stripe on the rear quarter? Question answered, awesome! :thumbsup:
 
Thank you and nice looking ride. Really like that color. About the rear seal. When i built my 511 i clocked that rear seal to 12 and 6 o'clock, used plenty of black RTV. The seal did not leak a drop first season, but has leaked ever since. What is the trick to get those sealed for good.
When I assembled the motor I bought a new billet aluminum rear main seal cap, dipstick tube, dipstick and Milodon 7 quart pan for use with exterior oil lines, don't remember if the dipstick was a Mr. Gasket or 440 Source product. I had been keeping the oil level at the full mark on the dip stick and during hard acceleration I had oil passing by the rear main seal and getting tossed all over the hot headers by the torque converter. I replaced the rear main a few times using the black Great Stuff but it still leaked.
I saw a online Mopar forum discussion where a few guys were questioning what was the correct oil level when using deep pans and although most comments said regardless of the style or depth of your oil pan your dipstick full mark will be correct. The forum thread got me thinking I should check mine. At the full level on my dipstick my oil level was above the bottom of my windage tray. I measured the amount of oil I had in the motor and had over 8 quarts in the pan not including what was in the filter. Obviously it was stupid on my part to put that much oil in it but I was going off the reading on the dipstick. I refilled the pan with 6 quarts (didn't change the filter) and took it out and rear main leak was gone. My dipstick reading is close to 2 quarts low but I plan to run it with 6 to 6.5 quarts in it from now on. Most NHRA Stock class Mopar guys race there motors a quart low so I'm not going to lose sleep over my dipstick reading. Since reading that forum thread I see a lot of guys before installing a new oil pan will fill their pan with water to see what it actually holds and where the oil level is at. And of course make sure you have very good crankcase ventilation to avoid any positive crankcase pressure.
 
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