'69 Big Block HP Exhaust manifolds - Sleeve nuts rounded off. How can I get them out?

[MikeyM]

Hi all,

The 2 sleeve nuts on either side of the down pipe were rounded off when I got the Bee and I have an exhaust leak at the manifold on cyl 2 so I need to get it off somehow. Any suggestions on how to tackle this?

Thanks very much,
Mikey

 

[hunt2elk]

Weld a bigger nut over the top of the stud that is left.

 

[33 IMP]

There are special sockets for removing rounded-off fasteners.

 

[dadsbee]

They look really rotted, that'll be a steel sleeve and an arc welder job.

 

[493 Mike]

If they are hollow a easy out might work.
Mike

 

[MikeyM]

Well that's lovely. I think I might just take it to a dude down the street who does restorations. He says he has a couple tricks to get it off. But I agree, it looks like it needs something welded to it (either to the end or around it).

Do the threads inside the sleeve nut go the full length of the nut or just at the end where the stud is?

Thanks all,
Mikey

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Well that's lovely. I think I might just take it to a dude down the street who does restorations. He says he has a couple tricks to get it off. But I agree, it looks like it needs something welded to it (either to the end or around it).

Do the threads inside the sleeve nut go the full length of the nut or just at the end where the stud is?

Thanks all,
Mikey

I believe they do Mikey. Lotta good suggestions by the crew here

 

[dadsbee]

All on studs, just like the front one with just a nut.

 

[eldubb440]

the heat from welding on a nut will free it up.........if you go that route

 

[MikeyM]

For sure, Rick. Thanks everyone

If I do go the route of welding a nut on, I would think I’d have to drain the coolant so that it does not cool the stud down during the whole process, correct?

Thanks again,
Mikey

 

[33 IMP]

You want the stud cool, and the nut warm. The nut will expand more, off a cool stud, less tension holding the nut on.

 

[Hotrod20]

Maybe try heating the barrel sleeve with a torch, that should expand the sleeve off the stud and you might be able to back it out
with small vice grips. Make sure you have a good "bite" on the sleeve after you heat it before turning it out.
HR20

 

[RJ Squirrel]

Here's a good place to insert your cool stud with hot nuts joke.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Here's a good place to insert your cool stud with hot nuts joke.

Lol

 

[MikeyM]

Hey all,

A little update - As many other before me have, I tried repeated days of penetrating oil. heat, tapping, and started trying an internal Irwin fluted easy out on one sleeve nut and an external bolt grip type on the other. No love from either, although I will continue trying.

I read another post where someone mentioned a left-hand threaded tap then get a left hand threaded bolt to wrench in there and try to get it off. This makes sense to me - anyone ever try this to get out rusted, rounded, sleeve nuts? Also, as another option, maybe weld that lefty bolt to the sleeve nut, while inserted, and keep trying? I'm not one for destroying fairly rare parts but it's getting to the point where I'm about to ask my buddy to torch the damn thing off so I can put headers on.

Thanks,
Mikey

 

[QuickBpBp]

You can try something like this bolt extractor kit. I have taken rotted bolts off with it. Take that rubber shield off in your engine compartment and see if you can get one of the sockets onto it through the wheel well and unscrew it then with a ratchet. The only problem I might see is it could be too rotted at the end so it would need to bite further into the manifold. I don't know how thick the side of the socket is so it may bind on the hole of the manifold BEFORE it bites on the sleeve nut..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4064167214...1291&msclkid=0764fdfc23d2114f976594a8ac87385b

 

[MikeyM]

Thanks BP. I have a similar set and tried the 9/16 size but, to your point, it did bottom out on the manifold. Then I tried the next smallest size and it’s tight but if I can get something in there to tap it onto the sleeve nut further, it should get a better bite. I hadn’t thought about removing the rubber shield so thanks for that. I will gibe It a try.

Mikey.

 

[MikeyM]

Man these things are a total beot@h. I tried heat but probably didn’t get it hot enough. I only have the blue bottle. My buddy bas the yellow bottle torch so we’ll try that when possible and he is going to weld a bolt into the sleeve nuts so I can get a wrench/socket on them.

As far as bolt and screw, extractors go, I can get an internal extractor on the further most rear nut and an external extractor on the one on the right side of the downpipe. I can get decent bites, but I am afraid I might either snap the sleeve nut or strip it if I do not have the sleeve nut hot enough.

Has anyone ever tried the induction heat heaters? Apparently, they are supposed to move the molecules around in the metal and get the bolt, which it surrounds, red hot. Anyone ever seen those? Thoughts?

I really don’t want to sacrifice the manifold but I will if I have to. So, God forbid if I have to sacrifice it, has anyone ever cut the passenger side manifold off and what is the best way to do it?

Thanks all,
Mikey.

 

[RJ Squirrel]

I would think I’d have to drain the coolant so that it does not cool the stud down during the whole process, correct?

Just saw this clue, yes I would get the coolant out of there, if you get the stud hot enough it will come out of the head. Would be a shame to cut up an HP manifold! I would pull the motor out of the car for better access before I would do that.

 

[RJ Squirrel]

Or get a good 90 degree drill attachment and appropriate threaded bit, drill out the stud until the barrel comes off, pull the manifold, then there will be enough of the stud left to get ahold of it or weld a nut on to get it out and replace it.