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69 Super Bee restoration

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My dad just sent me these pictures of his 65 barracuda. My mom and uncle are in the picture. I believe he bought this car and drove it for a couple months. then he received a work vehicle. He ended up parking the barracuda in the barn for about a year or so and then selling it for $750.
 
I am going to bring a bunch of the large parts down to have them media blasted next week. I’m looking at the hood. I have a shaker hood. Is it OK to drill out the rivets that hold the air intake system on the underside of the hood? That’s the only way I can see to get it off and just want to make sure I’m not going to ruin anything by doing that.
 
"Ramcharger" hood..

Bolts on the outside edges and drill the rivets (3/16) on the rest. Remove the rubber seal first, then take the outside sections off next and then the middle. Be gentle with that 50 year old fiberglass / plastic assembly.. Mine was broken from people slamming the hood over the years.
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Finally got the trunk trimmed up and the new floor laid in. I’m fitting the edges and noticed at the rear on either side of the brace that attaches to the frame rails there is about an 1/8 thick 12 inch long piece metal welded on. Looks like the lower rear sheet metal is sandwiched between that piece and the rear brace. Is this normal? Sorry if this is a newbie question.
 
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This car was also hit on the rear passenger side at some point in his life. The rear passenger quarter has been replaced. Looks like the rear brace is a little off on the passenger side. Doesn’t look like any damage to the frame or any signs of anything being polled or fixed. Is there anything specific I need to look at while lining up the new trunk floor?
 
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Finally got the air intake system off. And you never know what you’re going to find inside one of your hood scoops.
 
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First plug welds are in on the trunk floor. I also dropped of two trailer loads to the media blaster (hood, deck lid, D door, front fenders, and a ton of small stuff).
 
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This is way off subject but still very cool. Yesterday we drove my grandpa’s 1951 Minneapolis Moline Z out to the house. This is a tractor my grandpa bought brand new and my dad grew up with. It still has the rear tires on it that my grandpa put on in 1968. My dad had a great time driving it the 6 miles. It took us an hour and 15 minutes. Now t shares garage space with the bee.
 
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Finally got a load back from the media blaster. I know they make lower front fender patch panels. Any suggestions for these rusted/pin hole areas in the tight spaces around the headlight?
 
Was that a electrical junction box in the air scoop?? Holy jeez. Love finding stuff like that. Had a Porsche cayman come into the old body shop I worked at. The wipers would make noise from time to time. Pulled the wiper cowl cover and Pei'er must have left his hammer in there. It was old old. Owner of the shop keeps it in the display case. Great looking work you are doing there.
I've welded those small holes up before by putting a block of copper behind them the weld won't stick to it and allows the weld not to just blow out. But most of the time most guys just cut it all out. Be quicker and nicer in the long run. Thanks for putting stuff up so we can follow along with your build.
 
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Found this chassis manual online and was excited to have a detailed Guide for putting everything back together. Unfortunately, when I opened it every single page has the company logo ghosted behind the diagram. Really???? Where are my decoder glasses that I got out of a cereal box when I was a kid .
 
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This is my first time doing major bodywork. I have a question about my quarter panels. My driver side panel is 90% straight however the perimeter is 90% gone. I always hear people talking about keeping original body lines. Is it better to replace this entire panel or try to piece in the perimeter of the panel again?
 
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Just picked up another load of parts from the media blaster.

I’m in Southern California. Anyone know a good place to get rebuilt?
 
Auto Transport Service
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