70 Charger - Mechanic says "Transmission Selector Shaft" is leaking and wants 8 hours labor to replace

[dadsbee]

I did it here in less than an hour and a half with ZERO special tools. A body Dart, headers, zero room.. I say again. Find another mechanic or do it yourself.

1969 Dodge Dart Swinger clean up

 

[pnora]

As an update I went the shop and he showed me the leak and showed the mechanic the tool/images from this website. First off he said the leak most often leaks after running the car and and then the leak slows down after sitting awhile. This could make sense because I didn't run it too much and didn't notice too much leaking although a little. While sitting, I saw how the fluid is very slowly oozing from the switch down the pan.

He showed me the the selector switch and where it is leaking and he had a way to do it without removing the transmission, but I have headers that run very close to to where the works is and the space is VERY tight hence he recommended to drop the trans to do it. I showed him the tool and showed him a Youtube video and afterwards and he bought the tool online and will try to do it after the tool comes in. It is really tight space in there, but did tell him that many people on this board thinks this is a 1.5 hour job at best. He didn't have the tool so will update you after the tool comes in. As far as finding the leak after the pan, well it was leaking a lot more from the pan (even perhaps even when not running) so the smaller switch leak may not have been as noticeable until the bigger pan leak was repaired as the switch leak is much slower. In any event, the mechanic saw the tool and video and is open in any avenue to save time and money so will update and thinks it wil work as long as he can get the tool in that tight space after it arrives.

Thank you so much - really great info on this thread! I don't want to have it where I'm leaving puddles in my and other driveways.

Not to be negative but you must find these so called mechanics like a magnet. Get the seals, pull the two levers, drop the pan, drop the valve body 10 bolts, drive the seal out, put a new seal in [no special tools needed], replace the kick down shaft seal, put the valve body back in, put the pan on, put the two levers back on, fill it and be done with it. These so called mechanics must of got left behind when the circus left town with the clown show.

 

[4406bbl]

Good deal, I am glad he is open to advice and did not throw you out of the shop, maybe you can work with him. I hope so.

 

[matchek]

Not to be negative but you must find these so called mechanics like a magnet. Get the seals, pull the two levers, drop the pan, drop the valve body 10 bolts, drive the seal out, put a new seal in [no special tools needed], replace the kick down shaft seal, put the valve body back in, put the pan on, put the two levers back on, fill it and be done with it. These so called mechanics must of got left behind when the circus left town with the clown show.

Not to be negative but you must find these so called mechanics like a magnet. Get the seals, pull the two levers, drop the pan, drop the valve body 10 bolts, drive the seal out, put a new seal in [no special tools needed], replace the kick down shaft seal, put the valve body back in, put the pan on, put the two levers back on, fill it and be done with it. These so called mechanics must of got left behind when the circus left town with the clown show.

Thanks Pnora, you are awesome help and looking out for customer's best interest. If it is any concellation, both mechanics have done a lot of other good things that I didn't talk about so thought I would mention for perspective. Both threads have been very helpful on the things where I needed this boards help and in both mechanic's case, each is not an expert at everything with everything single thing about this Charger.

For further clarification, I saw the car on the lift this morning. Both of us were under the car and did a dry run of using the tool (if we had it) to try to get the gasket off after the linkages are removed. My custom-made headers allot VERY VERY LITTLE room to work on this switch and that is with a lift - let alone working in my garage on jack stands. I saw it myself - not sure what other have but it is very very tight in my case. I am not making excuses here because we are getting the tool and going to see if we can do. I can even do it and use his lift I want lol and /or witness them doing it when the tools comes. Obviously if the tool works it will be a lot less labor.

My pan doesn't appear to be in the way and does not look like it needs to be removed. It's the space by the switch that is limited in my case

 

[matchek]

Good deal, I am glad he is open to advice and did not throw you out of the shop, maybe you can work with him. I hope so.

You're welcome. This thread and group have been very helpful.

 

[BearDodge67]

Good deal, I am glad he is open to advice and did not throw you out of the shop, maybe you can work with him. I hope so.

Lot of mechanics tend to cop an attitude when you tell them "I saw it on the internet"

 

[4406bbl]

Lot of mechanics tend to cop an attitude when you tell them "I saw it on the internet"

Yes sir, body shops are the worst on that. But come on we all learn on the internet, I learn about torqueflites on the internet and have been inside them for 45 years. That's where the new products are advertised.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

 

[Auggie56]

Thanks Auggie, by the way, what type/year of vehicle did you have your trans rebuilt at a dealer? I was wondering if it was antique or newer car.

These cars were primarily 1970's, but lesser amount of 1960's. I worked there from 1970 to 1979.

 

[Ceedawg]

I’ve done them in about 15 minutes with the right size socket and clamp. Or drop pan and vb in 1/2 hour. Can you say rip off artist? Does he change the radiator cap on an air cooled VW?

 

[matchek]

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Thank you Mopar Hunter that is the process. There is also a good Youtube video that shows this process which I also showed the mechanic. The tool should be coming in next week. Believe it or not this tool was not that easy to find for sale - many places were out of stock but we were able to find one.

 

[Coop]

Thank you. I saw someone using that tool on Youtube changing one out. Would you happen to know what that is called?

Chrysler Shift Shaft Seal Tool. KD and and performance tool are no longer made but available on eBay. This equivalency is available on Amazon
Amazon product ASIN B011SBJSHA

 

[hemidon1]

I do this repair alot for folks--Its simple to do--there are 2 small seals --an inner and outter.--DO both--I prefere to pull the pan--remove the valve body and then its very simple--one to two hours with coffee--no magic no big deal no special tools--pretty simple job--the seals tend to become oblong instead of round from shifting and age. Not realy decernable unless you have the valve body in your hand ..Very common job.If its a very light leak you can put LUCAS stop leak in--but better to just do it right and be done with it.

 

[matchek]

I do this repair alot for folks--Its simple to do--there are 2 small seals --an inner and outter.--DO both--I prefere to pull the pan--remove the valve body and then its very simple--one to two hours with coffee--no magic no big deal no special tools--pretty simple job--the seals tend to become oblong instead of round from shifting and age. Not realy decernable unless you have the valve body in your hand ..Very common job.If its a very light leak you can put LUCAS stop leak in--but better to just do it right and be done with it

I do this repair alot for folks--Its simple to do--there are 2 small seals --an inner and outter.--DO both--I prefere to pull the pan--remove the valve body and then its very simple--one to two hours with coffee--no magic no big deal no special tools--pretty simple job--the seals tend to become oblong instead of round from shifting and age. Not realy decernable unless you have the valve body in your hand ..Very common job.If its a very light leak you can put LUCAS stop leak in--but better to just do it right and be done with it.

For clarification, are you removing the pan because it allows you more room to access the top of the trans where the seal is or are you removing the pan so you can access the seal from the bottom with the pan removed somehow?

Just clarifying as the pan is on the bottom and it does not appear to be interfering with the switch gasket location if we use the special socket recommending here but there may be another reason why some are recommending to remove the pan and that could be why you said no special tool is needed

 

[forphorty]

For clarification, are you removing the pan because it allows you more room to access the top of the trans where the seal is or are you removing the pan so you can access the seal from the bottom with the pan removed somehow?

Just clarifying as the pan is on the bottom and it does not appear to be interfering with the switch gasket location if we use the special socket recommending here but there may be another reason why some are recommending to remove the pan and that could be why you said no special tool is needed

Without the use of the special tool : drop the pan and drop the valve body down. Tap the seal out from below. Place the seal into position. Take a bolt and washer and pass the bolt through the seal. Place a nut and washer on the other side. Tighten the nut and bolt , drawing the seal into the case. I went out to the garage and grabbed a nut and bolt and took a few pics for demonstration purposes.

 

[hemidon1]

ITS easy to pull the valve body to change these seals--not necessary but easier.

 

[AngryPossum]

I'd scratch this mechanic off my list.

 

[matchek]

As an update, the mechanic ultimately said that if he was to do it, he was going to either remove the whole tranny or the headers as he just didn't see enough room to get it done without one or the other. I argued back and forth and went to the shop myself. My headers made it tight but to me it looked doable. He told me he would be more than happy to have me assist in the process and could use his lift or I could take anywhere else. I showed him all the pics and we watched the Youtube video. I wind up paying him more that I wanted because he guartenteed me he would get it done right. He dropped the tranny and did replace the selector shaft seal and no more leaks. Since the tranny was dropped he also replaced other seals that were easy to get to.

I also had an even worse leak at the Neutral Safety Switch. I went through 2 new Chinese Neutral Safety switches and they both leaked and the starting and back lights either would stick and not work. With the help of this forum, and hours of research, I wound up buying two New Old Stock original Mopar Neutral Safety Switches (not cheap) and the first one fully worked and with no leaks. Drove 35 miles on Thursday at hight speeds - all working and no leaks. Don't want to jinx it though!

 

[oldkimmer]

Glad u got it fixed. Kim

 

[1KoolBee]

Prime example of why no shop will ever touch my car. Transmissions are always the big mystery that most shops wants to “rebuild” for the slightest problem. Always for big $. I remember someone bringing me a ram van that needed a “trans rebuild” for 5 grand ( even tho a new trans from Chrysler was $2500 exchange) . I traced it down to a fried drivetrain computer, $300 to have it rebuilt. 10 minute swap. Buy the tool and diy, they are not that hard to work on. Find a friend if you need help. Good luck.


That neutral switch leak I had for years before I figured it out. Only leaked when cold.