727 front trans seal
- Thread starter slimt
- Start date
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
I remove the pump from the transmission, then take the pump apart and knock the seal out. Put the seal back in before assembling the pump.
There may be a special puller and driver to do it without removing the pump, but I don't have them.
If you have one of the hook type seal pullers that connects to a slide hammer, you might be able to remove the old seal with the pump installed, and then use a large diameter pipe to drive the new seal in?
There may be a special puller and driver to do it without removing the pump, but I don't have them.
If you have one of the hook type seal pullers that connects to a slide hammer, you might be able to remove the old seal with the pump installed, and then use a large diameter pipe to drive the new seal in?
slimt
Well-Known Member
Is there a gasket where the pump sits? Alignment putting the pump back in place a issue? Or just remove and reinstall? I do have to buy a low tansmission jack those are todays tasks.
Thank you
RT K_line
Well-Known Member
I just knock the old one out with a hammer and screw driver then install the new one by taping evenly around the seal. Before you put the new seal on check that the pump bushing hasn't moved out into the seal causing the leak. I've seen it a couple of times.
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
The pump has a gasket and O-ring seal.
Two long 5/16" bolts with the heads cut-off can be use as alignment dowls when replacing the pump.
A few tricks:
Loosen the front band adjuster jam nut, and tighten the front band to hold the drum in place when removing/installing the pump. Then re-adjust the band after installing the pump.
If you don't have a slide hammer to remove the pump, install some long 3/8" bolts with washers into the two threaded holes in the pump. I then have a heavy crow-bar, and place the hooked "V" notched part on the bolt and slide the crow-bar like a slide hammer and pops the pump out.
the low trans jack is helpful, but when the car is on jack stands, I would still have to take the trans off the jack to slide it out from under the car.
Since removing the trans is such a pain, I usually use it as an excuse to go through and freshen the transmission at the same time.
I mean, your still going to have to drain the trans fluid, remove the driveshaft, and all the linkage and park light/neutral safety wiring.
Sometimes the front vent pukes fluid and looks like the front seal is leaking. Also, check the converter hub that goes into the pump for cracks. A crack can be really hard to see, but it will leak alot of fluid. I like re-locating the trans vent to the rear of the trans case, and plug the front vent, that way there is no mistaking the fluid from the vent as a bad seal.
I got so tired of doing the job on my back with jack stands, that I bought a 4-post lift and transmission jack.
Two long 5/16" bolts with the heads cut-off can be use as alignment dowls when replacing the pump.
A few tricks:
Loosen the front band adjuster jam nut, and tighten the front band to hold the drum in place when removing/installing the pump. Then re-adjust the band after installing the pump.
If you don't have a slide hammer to remove the pump, install some long 3/8" bolts with washers into the two threaded holes in the pump. I then have a heavy crow-bar, and place the hooked "V" notched part on the bolt and slide the crow-bar like a slide hammer and pops the pump out.
the low trans jack is helpful, but when the car is on jack stands, I would still have to take the trans off the jack to slide it out from under the car.
Since removing the trans is such a pain, I usually use it as an excuse to go through and freshen the transmission at the same time.
I mean, your still going to have to drain the trans fluid, remove the driveshaft, and all the linkage and park light/neutral safety wiring.
Sometimes the front vent pukes fluid and looks like the front seal is leaking. Also, check the converter hub that goes into the pump for cracks. A crack can be really hard to see, but it will leak alot of fluid. I like re-locating the trans vent to the rear of the trans case, and plug the front vent, that way there is no mistaking the fluid from the vent as a bad seal.
I got so tired of doing the job on my back with jack stands, that I bought a 4-post lift and transmission jack.
gtxno1
Well-Known Member
Pump seal or converter seal?
miller
Well-Known Member
Suggest while you have it all in your hand, look things over, to try to determine why it was leaking. Yeah, sometimes, it just happens...or, it was installed bad. That being said, look at the converter shaft...is it smooth, or is there a groove, where the seal rides. If so, needs to be fixed, one way, or the other.
Special tools for the pump itself? I use two sets of 'special'
bolts. One pair of same bolts, with the tips flattened, and polished. Those I use to 'push' the pump out, simply by running them into the threaded holes evenly. The ends of the bolts push against the trans case...no damage.
The other set (like already mentioned), heads cut off, slight taper, polished, and used to guide the pump into place.
It's fairly easy just to replace the seal itself. Just be sure it's the seal itself, that's the cause of the leak. Get a short piece of PVC pipe, with a cap, sized right, to tap the new seal home.
Special tools for the pump itself? I use two sets of 'special'
bolts. One pair of same bolts, with the tips flattened, and polished. Those I use to 'push' the pump out, simply by running them into the threaded holes evenly. The ends of the bolts push against the trans case...no damage.The other set (like already mentioned), heads cut off, slight taper, polished, and used to guide the pump into place.
It's fairly easy just to replace the seal itself. Just be sure it's the seal itself, that's the cause of the leak. Get a short piece of PVC pipe, with a cap, sized right, to tap the new seal home.
gtxno1
Well-Known Member
pack the back side of the seal with Vaseline so the garter spring does not come out when knocking it place
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