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74 Charger SE fuse link wiring burnt and starter relay wire cut off?

74ChargerSE440

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I am a book keeper so my wiring is giving me head aches. What wire is cut off? The fuse link wire needs replacement asap. What colors should these wire have originally?

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FSM should tell you what gauge fuse link.
 
I am a book keeper so my wiring are giving me head aches. What wire is cut off? The fuse link wire needs replacement asap. What colors should these wire have originally?

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Are you referring to the BLACK cylindrical object in the center of the ORANGE WIRE? IF SO, there is a glass fuse inside this fuse holder. Unscrew the fluted end to expose the fuse....there will be a amp marking on on end of the glass fuse.....something like 30 amp 3AG (for All Glass). Perhaps, someone substituted the glass fuse/holder for the typical Mopar fuse link....because it was more available......just a thought......
BOB RENTON
 
If it were ceramic barrel fuse, it would have had different number like AGC or ATC or similar....the ceramic barrel wss usually for higher voltages (above 32v) and higher interrupting rating (not the sme as amps)...
BOB RENTON ..
I'm well aware.
My point is that you don't know what's in there and a fusible link is far different than a fast acting fuse.
 
I'm well aware.
My point is that you don't know what's in there and a fusible link is far different than a fast acting fuse.
But all fuses are NOT FAST ACTING....there are time delay types that duplicate/exceed the delay characteristics of a fuse link, which btw, have a very poor current interrupting capabilities....yet fuses have high interrupting or fault clearing capabilities and contain the arc, unlike a fusable link. Refer to the the fuse's specific time - current fault clearing curves....each is different......just thought you might like to know....
BOB RENTON
 
There is a terminal attached to the SOL starter relay terminal which shouldn’t be there. That feed is designed just to feed the starter motor solenoid at brown thick wire. Who knows what made last owner and why.

The correct fuse link used from factory in an standard setup is 16 gauge and blue if you care about correctness. If extra accesories such as tow package or even electric grid rear glass heater option (new feature for 74) were optioned, the fuse link was 14 gauge (dunno if diff color) and the charging wiring was run through the firewall with a grommet, not throught the bulkhead. High output alternators were used in these.
 
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checking the diagram... the SOL provision could feed also some solenoid at distributor on 400 HP engines. I never have seen that personally or on dozens of cars on web around, or owners talking about that on boards. So I can't tell about that thought. The terminal looks an aftermarket isolation thought.

ABOUT FUSE LINK... depending of options, 14 gauge red traced to feed the wire throught the grommet or as mentioned 16 gauge blue to feed the wire throught the bulkhead ( labeled as CE2 as the bulkhead plug code ) were the fuse links to be used to get into the cab and "feed" the amm.

74 fuse links to ammeter.jpg


dunno if I'm missing something.

Just looking forward to some nasty replies later ( based on experiences latelly )... I'm just talking about the original setup, shown on factory diagrams to the OP... I'm not talking about whats better or how can be upgraded with diff kind of safety systems
 
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That extra wire cut off on the relay was added for some reason. Just remove it.
I removed the connector with a small piece of wire in it. It seems an orginal violet wire with one thick and one thin white tracer... What could that be for?

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74 diagram doesn't show any violet wire arriving to starter relay... not even the one I mentioned to the "dist solenoid" for 400 HP, which is shown being black
 
If it were ceramic barrel fuse, it would have had different number like AGC or ATC or similar....the ceramic barrel wss usually for higher voltages (above 32v) and higher interrupting rating (not the sme as amps)...
BOB RENTON ..
I checked and there is a glass fuse in it with AGY 50 on it. Is this correct and/or sufficient?
 
That is a fast acting fuse, so basically a regular one. I wouldn't use a regular fuse for the main Charge line. Id't stick with a regular fuse link... but that's just me, being a stockish guy.

Some other options as mentioned are available too.
 
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