74 New Yorker 440 swap into a 73 satellite torque converter question?

[cam67]

Okay what I am doing is,First removing a 440 with a cast crank from a 74 New Yorker, Engine is a 73 date code it has the engine casting numbers and marked 440 +6 at the end of the casting numbers not sure what the plus six is about.Second thing is the engine that i do not want that is in my car is a steel crank high compression 68 model 440 the block is busted and it has a 3000 to 3500 stall converter that is what i do not want either.
What I am asking is if I was to order a stock converter for the 74 New Yorker to use with my 727 transmission will it be of The balanced type like the one that was original to the cast crank 440 that I am putting in my satellite.I was told that if i did not get the right one it could knock the bearings out of my engine with in a few miles.Another thing that I have heard is how to id a steel crank and a cast crank is by the hole at the back of the crank all steel cranks have a deep hole in the center true or false?My engine that was just bought has the letter E stamped on front pad by distributor along with J440 19 the E is id for cast crank is what i was told and the J is the year 73 the 1-9 is the month and the day of the same year when i have tried to explore this engine it keeps stating industrial truck.Could not be true cast crank car engine.Know place any where is a stamp stating low compression it specs out to be a 9 to1 compression engine casting numbers again has the 440 +6 anyone know what the +6 means I would be very thankful for any info

 

[Average Joe]

I believe The 6 at the end of the stamping stands for the sixth time they recalibrated the tooling for the casting.

 

[PP1RT]

Why not just grab the converter that is behind the 440 in the 74 you are pulling it from? All you are wanting is stock so just use that one. Dont even bother to unbolt it from the flywheel when pulling it. Unbolt it later to drop into the other tranny before installation.

 

[cam67]

That would have worked but the stock converter was for sale with the transmission only and was way to much wish they would have sold the converter with the engine. So guess what i was asking is,

 

[PP1RT]

Yes you will need the external balanced type to go behind your cast crank 440. Somebody near you would probably trade you one for the stall converter. I would. Where is poteau? Pm me if you want to trade.

 

[ckessel]

Your balancer will have an offset weight on it and say FOR CAST CRANK ONLY if it is still original. On the rear crank flange, just in case things got mixed up incorrectly up front, look for a narrow casting seam on it. If its narrow its cast, if its wide, 1/4-1/2", its forged. Look in some of the engine books to help figure it out if you are not sure what I'm talking about. What I'm mostly getting to is that B&M makes a flex plate for externally balanced engines [cast crank] that allow you to use an internal balanced [forged crank] converter. This will save you from having to buy a weighted, external balance converter which complicates things since they don't know your balance amount of the weight. Getting a normal un-weighted converter opens up your choices on a replacement if you start playing with converter selection. They also have them for A-motors. 440 Source may make this too. First thing though, you need to see what you have for a crank.