And so it begins..... my new garage

Shop, Garage and Tools

  1. 747mopar

    747mopar Well-Known Member

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    This is along time coming but finally the excavator showed up today:thumbsup:. Spent the last month tearing down the old barn (poorly built and falling apart) making room for my new home. A little surprise slowed the process though..... once I pulled it over and started cleaning up the mess I quickly realized it wasn't a wood I was familiar with but was Wormy Chestnut! Anybody who knows me knows I like unusual looking lumber and carefully stickered it all for later use, likely a kitchen table and chairs?? All other wood was burned as rain permitted.

    The other slow down came from the foundation, evidently concrete was dirt cheap when this barn was built.... they used no fill but instead leveled the barn with solid concrete!!! 3/4" holes were drilled in the right spots and blown apart with good ol pistol powder, lot's of fun:lol:. I'll be cleaning up concrete 100 ft away for quite a while.



    The backhoe finally showed up and got all of the concrete cleaned, he figures he'll be done before the weekend so here we go.
     
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    • MarPar

      MarPar Swervin' Like Im George Jones FBBO Gold Member

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      ill be watching this thread with great interest...

      so you're a regular Barnwood builder, eh?? {insert headbang smilie here}

      and hey, you'll be finding concrete for a few years to come...but it was much worth it! lol

      good luck on your new build and of course...

      :xscuseless:
       
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      • 747mopar

        747mopar Well-Known Member

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        Here's a pic and here's the plan. The larger portion with the 2 garage doors will be 32 wide X 34 deep, stick framed, fully insulated, drywalled, A/C, heat, bathroom, 2 post lift and a storage loft sitting on a full foundation. The 24 X 24 lower portion with the 16' door will likely be poll barn style and non insulated for parking only.
        20160801_160604.jpg
        Here's the lift that I've decided to go with, it's a Worth 2 post symmetrical with an additional 12" of width added.
        D Jackson 10CF 1 [72632].jpg
         
        Last edited: Aug 16, 2016
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        • Riverdawg

          Riverdawg FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          good luck with the build. I'm jealous, I'm stuck in a 2 car garage for now. I might be able to build a small outbuilding but have access to get the car back there.
          Well that answers that question. :thumbsup:
           
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          • MarPar

            MarPar Swervin' Like Im George Jones FBBO Gold Member

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            homer drooling (small).jpg

            Im with Riverdawg...my poor Newport has to live outside cuz I only have two inside spots. :BangHead:
             
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            • 747mopar

              747mopar Well-Known Member

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              I'm not far from that now. When I was still living with my parents (18-19) we built a 32X100 garage that's servived me well but have to share it with my brother and dad which is where the problem is. With my dad retired now and my brother getting divorced they both have more time to work in the garage not to mention we keep getting more toys so now it's time to build.

              Tired of my Charger being covered in dust needing washed continously and need a home for my boat, tractor and side by side as well. Can't wait!
               
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              • 747mopar

                747mopar Well-Known Member

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                This thread will be full of questions as I go. I've built homes, garages, etc but am putting emphasis on insulation and sealing it up tight so might be looking for ideas. I'll stick frame it with 2X6s, trusses on 24" centers but instead of plywood I'll be siding it in metal over perlings. Tin over perlings usually means drafts so that's one area I need to address, I'll put up faced R19 but to cut down on drafts wonder if house wrap will do or if foam board under the tin would be better? Also the foundation, will it be beneficial to put foam or just a barrier under the pad and does the vertical footer wall need insulated as well to keep cold out of the floor. One thing to keep in mind is this will be a low budget build so keeping cost minimal is important.
                 
              • Glenwood

                Glenwood Well-Known Member

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                In the shop built I put vapour barrier over the gravel then 2" rigid foam which really helped to retain the heat and keep moisture from permeating through the slab. I wish my current shop was built like that as i find moisture seeping through periodically.
                Good luck!
                 
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                • 5wndwcpe

                  5wndwcpe Huge Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  I highly suggest you join the Garage Journal. There are a shit ton of ideas on that site as well as helpful, knowledgeable people (heh, just like here).

                  http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
                   
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                  • GetX'd

                    GetX'd FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Do you mind if I echo the jealous posts..... 2 car garage living in Los Angeles doesn't give you much room to park - let alone work on the car.

                    But I enjoy your posts and wish you good luck on building such a sweet facility.
                     
                  • 747mopar

                    747mopar Well-Known Member

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                    I've been nosing round but haven't joined, might just do that.
                     
                  • Hemirunner

                    Hemirunner Well-Known Member

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                    Don't forget the floor heat!!!!


















                    Just kidding:rofl:
                     
                  • Mike67

                    Mike67 Well-Known Member

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                    You might want to check into having the walls/dialing sprayed with foam. I'm sure the initial cost might hurt but could possibly save you tons in the long run.
                    The reason I'm saying this was I was on a bus I ads trip touring a mfg facility and they had a tin building with a really low roof insulated with the foam. It was probably 8' @ the wall and may be 13-14' at the peak & about 3000sqft. Outside was 102 and there was probably a 20 degree difference. Both ends had the doors open with a shop fan and it was comfortable!
                    Our shop has the roof and wall insulated with the plastic face fiberglass and it's hot as hell and in the winter it gets pretty chilly...the building seems to hold the chill even after its warmed up outside...it's crazy...
                     
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                    • 5wndwcpe

                      5wndwcpe Huge Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    • 747mopar

                      747mopar Well-Known Member

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                      LOL. I can't believe how quickly I'm blowing threw the budget as is! Haven't bought anything but lumber and the lift as of now but punching the numbers shows I'm going to be pushing it. I've got a backwards uproach to building things, figure out how much I want to spend then figure out how to get it done for that...... Always a challenge.
                       
                    • 747mopar

                      747mopar Well-Known Member

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                      My brother in law did that to his house, talk about sealed tight!!!
                       
                    • Hemirunner

                      Hemirunner Well-Known Member

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                      As five window says, at least put the tubing in the concrete! What's another grand$ ?? Lol
                       
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                      • usaroadrunner

                        usaroadrunner Well-Known Member

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                        that is going to be awesome dev, but you know what happens when you get all done......."SHOULD'VE BUILT IT BIGGER".........lmao
                         
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                        • 5wndwcpe

                          5wndwcpe Huge Member FBBO Gold Member

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                          All in all, the tubing is relatively cheap - it's the foam board that is a little salty.
                          I have hydronic heat in my shop and it was the best decision I've ever made.
                           
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                          • jason79

                            jason79 Well-Known Member

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                            The term you are looking for is purlins, not perlings. Just busting you balls a little. House wrap over the purlins would help with draft. Skip the kraft faced insulation and run a 6mil plastic vapor barrier on the inside of the studs. You never want to install kraft faced insulation on the face of the studs, only on the sides. If you overlap it on the face of the studs, it makes it hard if not impossible get the sheetrock tight to the stud. Eventually this leads to the screws and nails "popping" after it is mudded. You are right with your thinking on getting a good tight envelope to seal the building. If you have any questions feel free to PM me, I've been doing this stuff for a long time. Jason
                             
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