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Any garage door installers out there? I have a question

Moms68

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One of my garage doors is a 9'x8' commercial duty wood door, and is pretty heavy. When my lift was installed the track was raised about 2' so the door would go up closer to the 10' ceiling. This would allow the door to clear a car that was up on the lift.

The 2 original springs (the coil type) were not replaced, so that door is extremely hard/ heavy to open and won't stay up. Any opinions on what color tension springs I need?

Thank you.
 
So they had to move the whole setup including the springs n rods.
 
My door springs I thought were bad , called a garage door company. Guy came out reset everything adjusted it for 100 bucks like brand new.
 
Why are there never any pictures... lol

You talking horizontal springs and cable drums, or springs on each side of the door? Top drum style, just crank them up a bit..
 
Agreed - assuming you have torsion springs (horizontal, above the door opening), just add some tension. Note it will put more stress on the springs and when they fail, you can install heavier ones...but for now it will make the door easier to open.

I just replaced a set here and it was not the horror show they tell you it will be. I still have ten fingers and two eyes...just take your time and be methodical.

Springs are 3 measurements:
1. Coil diameter (i.e. 2")
2. Spring diameter (i.e. 1/4", noted as 0.250)
3. Spring length (say, 42")

They show as .250x2.00x42 when you order them.

I replaced mine with a slightly larger diameter coil (2" versus 1.75"), a slightly thicker spring (.250 instead of .200), and the same length. Setting the tension, it took 5 fewer quarter-turns to set them properly. Hopefully I'll get some more life out of them this way - less stress on the metal.

When I started setting tension, I knew they were stronger so I stopped ten quarter-turns fewer than the one I took off (38). 28 wasn't enough, door was waaay heavy. 30 was close but still heavy. 33 was the Goldilocks setting - just right!
 
1 full turn for every foot of width. 7’ wide door = 7 turns

image.jpg
 
Ok, I can give you the correct information.
If the door tracks were raised and the springs, drums, and cables were not…that is your problem. You can put every different spring in the world on it and it will not fix your problem.
The issue at hand here is that the door is heavy. This is because as the door goes up each section that passes through the radius of the track, the sprung weight becomes less. By raising the track, you changed the functional dynamic. The springs are set to balance the weight of the door. The drums and cables are. Different for various situations. The flat drums are for standard lift doors. Drums with several higher cable grooves are for high lift doors ( your situation, the added 2 feet). The last type of drum is a decreasing conical style for full vertical lift doors ( doors that follow the wall entirely without going horizontal at all)
With your situation, the only way to fix it is to;
1. Get the proper high lift drums
2. Get the correct length cables. This is a measurement from floor to centerline of torsion shaft and the high lift drums you are using, plus the amount of high lift ( you stated 2 feet).
3. You will need different springs base on the same criteria as #2 calculation.
This is the safe, proper way to get your door to balance. Everything else is just a hack. Do go being cheap. Would you hack or take shortcuts on your car ? Your garage door on your shop is equipment as is your lift, tools and other equipment.

My credentials you might ask ? I have over 10 years working as a commercial garage door installer and repairman. I have done hundreds of these conversions. Get a local garage door company or two to come out and quote the job. It should hover around 500bucks.
 
Just as good,
It is a turn for every foot in height of the door, plus a half to three quarters of a turn to hold the door in the open position.
The width means nothing as the spring and drums wrap the cable one foot for every rotation.

Go ahead and wind a spring on a 16 foot wide door with your formula and see what happens.
 
Just as good,
It is a turn for every foot in height of the door, plus a half to three quarters of a turn to hold the door in the open position.
The width means nothing as the spring and drums wrap the cable one foot for every rotation.

Go ahead and wind a spring on a 16 foot wide door with your formula and see what happens.
You are right. Haven’t finished my coffee yet
 
So they had to move the whole setup including the springs n rods.
They raised the tracks up about 2' and added a straight section to the bottoms. The door is now closer to the ceiling when fully open but it is very heavy and the springs don't seem to be strong strong enough for the extra travel.
 
Just as good,
It is a turn for every foot in height of the door, plus a half to three quarters of a turn to hold the door in the open position.
The width means nothing as the spring and drums wrap the cable one foot for every rotation.

Go ahead and wind a spring on a 16 foot wide door with your formula and see what happens.
These are extension springs not the torsion type.
 
just as good is correct, I just installed 2 12x12 2" insulated doors instructions state (4) 1/4 turns for each foot of height, plus 2 so mine were 48 quarter turns plus 2 making it 50 quarter turns, they work perfectly. the springs are calculated for your door, I spoke with another friend and that is what he did when installing his also, the barrels with the cables were wrapped on each side snug and then clamped with a vise grip to keep them from unwinding until the spring pressure is engaged to keep the tension.
 
If they are extension springs, then the only thing you can do is add stronger springs. Good luck
 
They raised the tracks up about 2' and added a straight section to the bottoms. The door is now closer to the ceiling when fully open but it is very heavy and the springs don't seem to be strong strong enough for the extra travel.
Are your springs above the door or on each side. Post a pic
 
The newer springs have a safety cable inside incase they snap.
Is there any slack in the safety cable when the door is all the way down?
If not then you need a longer spring.
If there is slack then try and put more tension on the springs you have.
It it snaps then you need a new spring.
 
Go get the longer spring since they moved it 2 ft up.If you try n put more tension on the existing one it may snap. Do as Don said. At lease with the longer springs you will be able to adjust the upward n downward motion of door
 
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