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Anyone running mid to high 12s, what are your 60 foot times?

Basing things on a 3700 all in car with a chassis that hooks good and an actual on track 291fwhp your ticket would look like>
60 Foot E.T. : 1.89
1/8 Mile E.T. : 8.58
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 79.24
1/4 Mile E.T. : 13.59
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 99
@333fwhp it would be>
60 Foot E.T. : 1.81
1/8 Mile E.T. : 8.20
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 82.88
1/4 Mile E.T. : 13.00
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 103
So you have the 333hp (weight/mph) the numbers explain it all...radials of any kind, street/drag and stick cars are not a match made in heaven.
That seems about right. I should be able to find some more power via the timing.
My best guess at HP has been about 425-440HP. The thing is, my dad had the exact same car, so the weight should be equal. He had a 389 Tripower, with a jetting kit, spark plugs 1 range colder, thin head gaskets, "poly locks" to get a couple hundred more RPMs, short throw shifter, transistorized ignition, and cheater slicks. I think he may have had a 4.11 ring and pinion gearset. I wouldn't want any higher gears than the 3.80 because I'm already pushing up on the rev limiter.
So I think between the unexplored and recognizable "less than ideal" setup of the distributor, which has a lot of potential because it is one of the best ignition systems available, and the traction difference between the drag radials on my car vs the slicks he had, and BAM! there's the 8/10ths of a second that I need to cut to reach our goal.
 
Rear End gears and slicks can make a world of difference, especially if your Muncie is a 2.20 low. The trick with slicks is to not blow up drivetrain pieces, and yet get a good launch.
An automatic with a good converter will multiply torque off the starting line, and probably run fastest with a dead hook (no wheelspin at all). A stick shift needs moderation , somewhere between a dead hook ( usually a huge bog) and blowing the tires completely off.
Stick shift cars were faster than automatics, before the advent of stall speed converters. Now, it's a lot harder to be faster with a stick than an auto!
 
Rear End gears and slicks can make a world of difference, especially if your Muncie is a 2.20 low. The trick with slicks is to not blow up drivetrain pieces, and yet get a good launch.
An automatic with a good converter will multiply torque off the starting line, and probably run fastest with a dead hook (no wheelspin at all). A stick shift needs moderation , somewhere between a dead hook ( usually a huge bog) and blowing the tires completely off.
Stick shift cars were faster than automatics, before the advent of stall speed converters. Now, it's a lot harder to be faster with a stick than an auto!

And that goes for transbrakes as well, 2 hits with my mates 600hp 440/8.3/4" and it was bye bye to the diff.....went to 9" and pro gears.
Bio's 540 with a stick is gonna be a serious handful even with all the tamers etc.
 
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And that goes for transbrakes as well, 2 hits with my mates 600hp 440/8.3/4" and it was bye bye to the diff.....
Yep. Transbrake in my 2400 lb car had 3.5" aluminum shaft, billet yokes with 1350 joints, nodular nine with a spool and ladder bars. Never broke anything, but only had about 500hp at the crank.
 
Bio's 540 with a stick is gonna be a serious handful even with all the tamers etc.
Yeah, I'm going to have the HitMaster "figured out" by then, tire size and compound, front double adjustable Viking shocks dialed in with the QA1 K-member and front suspension, disconnect the front sway bar...I'll have the Assassin traction bars setup, and if I haven't got them by then, I'll add the double adjustable Viking (or maybe another brand) rear shocks to replace the 3 way adjustable CEE-2730 rear shocks.
I'll probably have to change out the clutch disc and pressure plate for the 540, but I'm very soon going to try the HitMaster launch control system with my current organic clutch disc and 2,950 pound pressure plate.
You guys have been GREAT, and this has been one of the most helpful threads I've ever posted!
 
12.90.
Sixty ft: 2.05 ish, +/- 0.05.

Nice looking GTO. Looks and sounds like you're having fun.

MPH suggests you're short on HP, at least in this outing. 400 hp in a GTO (3800 lbs?) should be trapping 110 mph in decent air, irrespective of 60 ft.

What's your typical DA down there this time of year? I would think <2000 ft.
 
No clue about DA, but need to learn. I'll say it's sea level, maybe 45 degrees, not "dry" air but not nearly as high humidity as summertime.
That distributor has a lot of unlocked power potential, and it may even be working against me right now.
I'm going to figure it out. With the mild head porting (done by hand), the CompCams hydraulic ROLLER cam, modded Tripower, really good cast iron factory exhaust manifolds, 035 overbore, forged aluminum pistons...it really should be cranking out over 425 HP. Stock 421 Tripower output was around 372 horsepower and this engine is off a fresh professional rebuild 2 years ago, with a very well executed and vigilantly monitored break in period.
One thing I'm going to do real soon, maybe before I bring it to get all the new systems and 5 speed installed is bring it to the local performance tuning shop and get it on the chassis dyno. That could really help me get it sorted.
 
my 68 runner with a 440 that I put together 25 years ago still runs 12.50 @110 thur the muffers 1.76 60
 
my 68 runner with a 440 that I put together 25 years ago still runs 12.50 @110 thur the muffers 1.76 60
Hey gooser...
Here's a public thank you!
You DA MAN!
:lowdown: @gooser :thankyou::luvplace:
No bullshit, If I was getting the power I have now transferred into forward motion, I'd be in the high 12s, and I'll believe that the :lowdown: Weiand P3690982 6bbl intake would make the difference that would put us door to door down the 1320!
:thumbsup:
 
bio you get that runner running right with all that good stuff you have and that should be a good 10 second car
 
bio you get that runner running right with all that good stuff you have and that should be a good 10 second car
That's nice of you to say, but it's really not that "souped up". Details are in my signature. W/the 4.10 that I have now, I figure if it was a new engine, stock, with the drag radials hooking, it would be low 13s easy. With the mods I have, and the traction aids coming, that should put me in the 12s. The engine is strong, but I suspect it may be down a bit on ring seal from a new one-just a guess.
Now the 700 HP and torque 540 stroker, well that's going to be a whole new ballgame. Between now and then, I'll get to play with that Weiand intake. I haven't even had time to see how it fits relative to the hood, and I'm not going to for a while since it's about to go into the shop and get a bunch of goodies installed, only some of those being performance related.
 
The last time slip I could find.
I’m 77 on the right.
image.jpg
 
A good 12.50 ticket in a 3700lb car with a med to good hook would look like this,
60 Foot E.T. : 1.74
1/8 Mile E.T. : 7.89
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 86.15
1/4 Mile E.T. : 12.50
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 107
I ran 12.4's@108 all day with my s/strip '71 Cuda 340 but never kept any tickets, they were in the low 1.7's.
 
That trap speed is another indicator that my 1320 times should be quicker.
I'm running 106 MPH in the Roadrunner, and if I wasn't creeping out of the hole the first few car lengths, or conversely smoking the tires, I'm sure the MPH would be higher, by a couple of MPH or so.
Great replies guys! This is a very informative thread, and I appreciate it!
 
That trap speed is another indicator that my 1320 times should be quicker.
I'm running 106 MPH in the Roadrunner, and if I wasn't creeping out of the hole the first few car lengths, or conversely smoking the tires, I'm sure the MPH would be higher, by a couple of MPH or so.
Great replies guys! This is a very informative thread, and I appreciate it!

That seems reasonable.

For some reason I thought you were trapping 103.
 
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