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Belvedere Project Update

Thanks again Mike! I do have a Griner trans brake but it's still in the box! Good info on the tire pressure as I wasn't sure what to run. I will be foot braking it the first time out and will be using 50% VP 110 and 50% 91. If I can get a weekend off I will be taking it to Fontana. Not sure what mine weighs but I do have fiberglass bumpers and hood and interior is gutted except for two seats so should weigh about the same as yours! I need to get it on the scales soon!

Plum.. I am still pulling for 10.50 time slip for you...maybe not first run...but after trying different launch rpm and shift point. By the way, even with 50/50 race pump gas I have still been running 34 degree timing (all in at 2400).
My only way to get the car into the 10.50's (without a transbrake) is to run 100% 110 race gas with 37 degrees timing...which is next on my list to do. If you find you can go 10.50's (or even 10.60) with 50/50 at 34 degree then be sure a take a separate 5 gal can of straight 110, before you go home, drain out the 50/50, pour in the 100% 110, change the timing to 37 and make a run....
ALSO...to make my best run possible at the recent test&tune I removed my passenger seat to save 40lbs and only run a MAXIMUM of 5 gal of gas...(if you run 10gallons then you are carrying an extra 30-40 pounds..remember 100lbs out of the car is worth about a tenth of a second.....
I marked exactly 5 gallons on a yardstick (sticking it into the fuel cell) and marking the spot and then after making a run I refilled it back up to the 5 gal mark...I used just about 1 gal for each pass, including trip up to the staging lanes, water box, 1/4 mile run and return to my pit area.
 
Thanks Mike! I'm also running 34 degrees timing all in at 3,400. I have a 15 gallon fuel cell, so maybe all just run it close to dry and put in 5 gallons of 110 and take another 10 with me. I'll start out with it at 34 where I have it and try bumping it to 37 after a few passes. Taking passenger seat out is also a great idea and easy weight savings. Again thanks for the help, looking forward to good results!
 
Thanks Mike! I'm also running 34 degrees timing all in at 3,400. I have a 15 gallon fuel cell, so maybe all just run it close to dry and put in 5 gallons of 110 and take another 10 with me. I'll start out with it at 34 where I have it and try bumping it to 37 after a few passes. Taking passenger seat out is also a great idea and easy weight savings. Again thanks for the help, looking forward to good results!

Put some lighter springs in the MSD...no reason not to have it "all in" by 2400rpm.

Also...drain your fuel cell then put in 5 gallons, stick a wooden yardstick into the fuel cell and mark where 5 gallons comes to on the yard stick...then make all your passes with the 5 gallons, after a run fill the tank back up to the 5 gallon mark on the yard stick...then you know you will have plenty of gas for the run and each run is exactly the same weight...so you can make a direct comparison with the car being the same weight on each run...then when you are comfortable that the car isnt going to go any faster with the 50/50 mix at 34 degrees, then drain out the 50/50 and put in 100% 110 race gas and set the timing at 37 and see what happens....let us know a complete report on your outing.

I put a "Jiffy-Tite" quick disconnect on my fuel line between my fuel cell and fuel pump so I could pop it open easily and drain the tank. You can get then from Summit real quick.

I am cheering for you to get a 10.50 (or better) time slip.
 
My car with Indy heads doesn't go any quicker with more than 32 degrees.
Doug
 
Thanks Mike and dvw! Brian my engine builder suggested I run the motor at 35 degrees total and that was what it was set at for engine dyno and chassis dyno. Mike, during chassis dyno the lighter springs were put in and I'm all in at 2400, forgot that was one of the issues they fixed. Going to get a few Jiffy Tite disconnects for easy drainage! Good suggestion, thanks again for all the help!
 
Thanks Mike and dvw! Brian my engine builder suggested I run the motor at 35 degrees total and that was what it was set at for engine dyno and chassis dyno. Mike, during chassis dyno the lighter springs were put in and I'm all in at 2400, forgot that was one of the issues they fixed. Going to get a few Jiffy Tite disconnects for easy drainage! Good suggestion, thanks again for all the help!

Was that 35 on pump or race gas ?
 
Pump Gas, even though I'm only at 10.4 compression he still suggested a 50/50, pump/110 mix. Said it wasn't a must and I could run straight 91 octane and the motor would be fine but it would be happier with the mix. Since I've had it in the car I've run both straight 91 octane with no issues, but man does it feel better with the mixed octane! VP makes a product called Octanium that raises the octane in 10 gallons a full 8 numbers or 80 points. I have been throwing in a bottle each fill up if I'm low on the 110.
 
dvw...thanks for that input...all help is appreciated...
Do you run pump or 110 race gas at 32 where more timing doesnt help ?
Thanks, again

I run C-14 so it has no issues with detonation. In fact I've tried to slow it down by reducing timing. 26 total didn,t slow it .10
Doug
 
Need some good advise on cooling. I went and did the thing I hate most and threw parts at my cooling problem to end up in the same place. I had the be cool 1000hp radiator with twin 13" spal fans, mopar performance water pump, 180 thermostat and the car constantly overheated on short drives both at a standstill and while moving. After talking to several people I was told the be cool radiator would not cool my car in hot California weather. Pulled the be cool out and ordered a Wizard 26" radiator with upgraded 1.25 core tubes with integrated shroud with twin 1500cfm fans (not cheap). while it was out I installed a flow cooler water pump, mildon high flow 180 thermostat. End story still overheating but now mostly while sitting still (210-230) My timing is set at 35 and plugs are spot on. Water wetter and bottled water for the radiator, 16lb cap. Completely frustrated at this point! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Do you have an AF gauge? I found if it was too lean{13.5 to 14.5} at idle and off idle that my heap ran hot.You can try to fatten it up,but not enough to choke when sanding near the exhaust pipe.
 
That's a slick rad & fan set up...
 
Thanks Budnicks! Hemi-It is thanks for the info, I will try and fatten it up. Took it and had it tuned on the chassis dyno but they set it around 13.7 at idle from what I recall. I will try and fatten it up, didn't even think of that!
 
Thanks for the reply Mike! I'm going to hold off for at least a few weeks while I get everything else dialed in. I have the 1000hp rated BeCool radiator with twin 13" Spal electric fans that for the first few drives with the new motor was not cooling it adequately. I drained all coolant and went to distilled water and water wetter only which put me 185-190 cruising and 195-200 at traffic lights. Having two other small problems with belt throwing at 7k rpms and new powermaster one wire alternator not fully charging Optima battery. Real excited to get to the track see what she will run, its a handful on the street but a perma smile every time I get to drive her. Thanks for all the suggestions!
I talked to the tech and Griffin Radiator and he said that the 1000HP Be Cool radiator would NOT adequately cool your (and other peoples) high horsepower motors). It only has 1" tubes running thru the radiator but the Griffin Radiator has 1 1/4" tubes and he said that was the root of your cooling problems. Call Griffin and find out for yourself. BeCool will tell you their radiator is adequate but it is NOT.
 
Thanks for your posts Mike! I spoke to both Griffin, Wizard and a few others who all said the same thing, the BeCool will not be able to cool my motor. I went with Wizard because I liked all the positive feedback on their radiators, plus I really liked their integrated shroud and I also went with the 1 1/4 tubes. The serpentine belt I have in my most recent pick is an 8 rib belt. The old photo you were looking at was upside down that is when I was trying to get the car to stop throwing belts at 7k rmp. No longer a problem with the serpentine system. The Wizzard is really a nice piece but it has been 110+ degrees here and the new radiator is much better just still not enough! The only thing I can think of is to place the twin 13 spal fans I have from the BeCool on the front of the radiator for extra airflow, just not sure it will help.
 
Here is my current set up with the 8 rib serpentine belt system from CVF Racing.

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Thanks for your posts Mike! I spoke to both Griffin, Wizard and a few others who all said the same thing, the BeCool will not be able to cool my motor. I went with Wizard because I liked all the positive feedback on their radiators, plus I really liked their integrated shroud and I also went with the 1 1/4 tubes. The serpentine belt I have in my most recent pick is an 8 rib belt. The old photo you were looking at was upside down that is when I was trying to get the car to stop throwing belts at 7k rmp. No longer a problem with the serpentine system. The Wizzard is really a nice piece but it has been 110+ degrees here and the new radiator is much better just still not enough! The only thing I can think of is to place the twin 13 spal fans I have from the BeCool on the front of the radiator for extra airflow, just not sure it will help.
Plum....I had the exact same cooling problem when I drove my car on the street....210 to 220 degrees and climbing up. I have a BeCool 1000HP radiator with twin fans. I thought they were 13" but when I was talking with Griffin Radiator tech he told me to measure them. Come to find out they were only 11" fans when I measured them. He said I needed their 1 1/4 tube radiator with their widest core and their 13" fans and he guaranteed me that would cool my motor.
I have not yet bought the Griffin Radiator but I will do that later.
Since I now do not really drive my car on the street anymore, I have gone with a Meziere ELECTRIC HD pump that inserts into my aluminum housing. I have the electric water pump plus my twin fans routed to and wired up on toggle swithes so I can turn them off and on at any time. I installed a second Marine Dual Purpose Starter/Deep Cycle Battery in the trunk. I have the twin fans and the the electric water pump hooked up to that battery. My starter, MSD Box, electric fuel pump and gauges are wire up to my other battery in the truck which is a Red Top Optima 34/78 series. I completely removed my alternator(mainly to save weight and free up some horsepower.)
Now when I drive up to the staging lanes for the 1st run of the day, the water is at about 125 degrees. I let it heat up to 150 degrees and go into the water box and then motor is at about 170 when I launch the car. End of the run it is at about 190. I come back to the staging lanes, shut off the motor and run the electric water pump and fans (off of the extra deep cycle battery) until the motor cools down to about 125 degrees. That takes about 5 minutes even on a 110 degree day....then I do the same process all over again.

Point of interest.
The water doesn't "overheat" like it does with street driving because the motor isn't really running long enuf making a drag strip run...the motor is running for around 5 minutes absolute total including pulling up in the staging lane awaiting your turn, going into and out of the water box, making the run and coming back down the return road. (and when the motor is running down the track it is going fast down the track blowing a lot of air thru the radiator)

I have 2 optima batteries and change them out during the noon break, putting the fully charged one in and taking out the one that may have 3 or 4 runs on it. I charge the deep cycle for about 1/2 hour every time I get a change.
The motor probably really likes the cooler water (not anymore 220-230 degree temps coming down the return road and in the staging lanes trying to get cooled down between rounds when I had my belt driven water pump and had to have the motor running to circulate the water) and I have the peace of mind about the water temp also.
Hope this info is helpful...Mike

And...a side note. My best ET is 10.582 (with 50/50 110 race and 91 pump and 34 degrees timing) but that was in 75 degree weather with about 1100 or 1200 feet adjusted altitude.
The last race I attended it was 105 degrees and 3500-3700 feet adjusted altitude. I thought that was the time to go to straight 110 race gas and 38 degrees timing (which I did).
If I had done nothing the car probably would had gone about 10.70 in that weather but having gone with straight 110 gas and 38 timing it ran consistent 10.59's to low 10.60's all day.
So...now I think it will probably go into the high 10.40's this fall when we get some good racing weather again....
 
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