Best to check those lug nuts!

[Sonny Black]

I too want to hear how well Hagerty works for you!
tomorrow I will check my lugs..:icon_salut:

:icon_sunny:

 

[Speedbird]

That sux is an understatement.
But the car still looks better than 99 percent of the cars on the road, if you will pardon the expression. Even with the damage and three wheels.
This is one of the reasons I run steelies.
Thighten them up and forget it. The take the abuse too.

 

[uranium238]

Man, that sucks, but it was way better than doing it at speed. At the end of the day, you are still walking around...

I couldn't tell any damage from the last pic of the cowl. You know your own car better than anyone else, though.

Like others said, I'm interested in your claim experience with Hagerty's. I just recently switched to them...

 

[SublimeSixpack]

That's a good looking Coronet, a color combination I haven't seen for quite some time. Too bad about the damage! Good luck with the repairs.

 

[barelad69]

sorry to see your car in that shape im glad to hear your ok tho. and iv never had that happen to me but im always worried of it happening i better check my lugs tomorrow

 

[WAYNES WORLD]

That's a real bummer. I hope the claim goes well. I also took a newly purchased car out for a ride without going over everything and got less then 10 miles from my house and lost the brakes. Really puckered up the back end! Lucky for me I was able to down shift and use the parking brake to get it stopped. All new brake lines ain't worth crap if you can't make a good flare. Hauled the car home and also found 1/2 the front end bolts were loose. The other owner had added PS, bushings, ball joints, rod ends and disk brakes to the car but never tightened anything up. Was a real eye opener for me.
Let us know how you make out.
Wayne

 

[bm02tj]

Just do what I do, use a star wrench and tighten them til your left testicle bursts.

that is a bad idea as over tightened can be more dangerous than loose

with no warning the studs can break and good by

 

[khryslerkid]

that is a bad idea as over tightened can be more dangerous than loose

with no warning the studs can break and good by

Some have bigger testicles than others!

 

[CoronetDarter]

OUCH! You got into the lead on the cowl. That is going to suck to repair.

Still have left handers on mine, they have a special mark on the end to remind ME which way to turn.

Good luck.

Randy

Randy,

I'm looking for body shops now. What does it mean about the cowl and what are the challenges?

- - - Updated - - -

A lot of people have inquired about Hagerty insurance, so here's an update. The adjuster came out, took pictures and did a complete inspection. He said Hagerty's main concern is getting the car fixed and back on the road. Their claims rep contacted me about 4 - 5 days after the inspection to give me an itemized quote. This being a Coronet 500 has been a challenge because there's no fender repops and even used are hard to find. The chrome moulding is even harder to source. I was able to source a fender on e-bay and a front clip on this site; no luck on the moulding yet. Same with the Appliance wheel - they're almost impossible to find although I'm not attached to them anyway.

To cut to the chase - they offered $4,867, which includes 40 hours of shop time @ $75/hr., parts and paint. Sourcing my own parts I can equal or beat their estimate, which is good, but after reading RGAZ post above, now I'm concerned the labor estimate is low. I've contacted 3 shops in the Sac area and none of them work on older cars. I'll keep updating as time goes on.

So far I'm pleased with Hagerty's response time and their commitment to getting the car back on the road. What remains to be seen is if the body shop repair estimate far exceeds their claim estimate.

 

[kb67mopar]

that is a bad idea as over tightened can be more dangerous than loose

with no warning the studs can break and good by

Not saying torque them to yield, just get them good and tight. I've been doing it this way for over 10 years and have never once had a stud fail. I've had idiots at shops cross thread them and use an impact to tighten them down and then had that stud fail when I removed the nut...but never had one fail the way I tighten them.

I have found that using a torque wrench just doesn't keep them tight enough unless you go over what people typically tighten them. I've calibrated my testicle method with time.

 

[themechanic]

I hope you find a reputable shop that can do a good repair. Hagerty seems to have given you a fair offer if you can find the parts.

Thanks for the update and good luck.

 

[Plucked Chicken]

Randy,

I'm looking for body shops now. What does it mean about the cowl and what are the challenges?

- - - Updated - - -

A lot of people have inquired about Hagerty insurance, so here's an update. The adjuster came out, took pictures and did a complete inspection. He said Hagerty's main concern is getting the car fixed and back on the road. Their claims rep contacted me about 4 - 5 days after the inspection to give me an itemized quote. This being a Coronet 500 has been a challenge because there's no fender repops and even used are hard to find. The chrome moulding is even harder to source. I was able to source a fender on e-bay and a front clip on this site; no luck on the moulding yet. Same with the Appliance wheel - they're almost impossible to find although I'm not attached to them anyway.

To cut to the chase - they offered $4,867, which includes 40 hours of shop time @ $75/hr., parts and paint. Sourcing my own parts I can equal or beat their estimate, which is good, but after reading RGAZ post above, now I'm concerned the labor estimate is low. I've contacted 3 shops in the Sac area and none of them work on older cars. I'll keep updating as time goes on.

So far I'm pleased with Hagerty's response time and their commitment to getting the car back on the road. What remains to be seen is if the body shop repair estimate far exceeds their claim estimate.

On thing many do not know - You can take the payout in cash and get the repairs at your leasure. Or do them yourself.

 

[mr. b]

glad to see every thing worked out with Hagerty I am going with them also good luck hope you get it fixed soon

 

[dvw]

Randy,

I'm looking for body shops now. What does it mean about the cowl and what are the challenges?

- - - Updated - - -

A lot of people have inquired about Hagerty insurance, so here's an update. The adjuster came out, took pictures and did a complete inspection. He said Hagerty's main concern is getting the car fixed and back on the road. Their claims rep contacted me about 4 - 5 days after the inspection to give me an itemized quote. This being a Coronet 500 has been a challenge because there's no fender repops and even used are hard to find. The chrome moulding is even harder to source. I was able to source a fender on e-bay and a front clip on this site; no luck on the moulding yet. Same with the Appliance wheel - they're almost impossible to find although I'm not attached to them anyway.

To cut to the chase - they offered $4,867, which includes 40 hours of shop time @ $75/hr., parts and paint. Sourcing my own parts I can equal or beat their estimate, which is good, but after reading RGAZ post above, now I'm concerned the labor estimate is low. I've contacted 3 shops in the Sac area and none of them work on older cars. I'll keep updating as time goes on.

So far I'm pleased with Hagerty's response time and their commitment to getting the car back on the road. What remains to be seen is if the body shop repair estimate far exceeds their claim estimate.

I've had 3 friends have muscle car claims with Haggerty. Nothing but positive responses on all 3. One was over $10K, another was over $25K. All were taken care of in a fair and timely manner.
Doug

 

[themechanic]

I just renewed my Hagerty Collector Car Insurance policy.

 

[uranium238]

Glad to know things went good with Hagerty so far. I hope I never need it...but I bet you did too.

You'll be back on the road in no time, man..keep up the positive waves.

 

[CoronetDarter]

Glad to know things went good with Hagerty so far. I hope I never need it...but I bet you did too.

You'll be back on the road in no time, man..keep up the positive waves.

I got a line on a front clip from a FBBO member and the husband of my wife's friend restores old cars. He looked at the car and didn't think it would be a big deal to repair.

 

[kb67mopar]

I got a line on a front clip from a FBBO member and the husband of my wife's friend restores old cars. He looked at the car and didn't think it would be a big deal to repair.

Hope you get it repaired back to like new! There are so many people on here with so many parts, I am sure you will find everything you need to get it fixed up. Good luck and happy thanks giving.

And if it makes you feel better, you little incident reminded a ton of people to check their lugs and re-affirmed our faith in Haggerty. Which is good since my car is insured through them too!

 

[RGAZ]

Sorry for the late response.

My concern was in the picture it appears to be surface cracking on the cowl paint. Now this could be normal from age and wear, but since it looks white I was assuming it was recent. Since the front fender pushed into the cowl I can't tell but it looks like it pushed the cowl edge towards the centerline of the car. The cowl is attached to the firewall frame right there with a weld covered by lead. I sent you a picture of what it looks like if you removed all the lead so you can compare to your car.

The money you got sounds pretty good, but who do you know that will work on that lead? you can't sand it without poisioning yourself and only really specialized body shops even know what to do. So what are your options?

You could ignore the cracked paint in the cowl if the mated parts match well and the gap is minimal. A repaint will extend into that area so the body guy will blend into it and probably sand it since they don't have any idea what lead is. But knowing what you know would you let another human being make that mistake?

You could find a body shop that actually knows what lead is and have them look at it and tell you if it needs to be fixed or how to prep it. It might be just fine and you can warn the painter to go easy on the sanding in that area. If the guy who actually knows what lead is suggests a repair, have him document the lead, a repair estimate, and submit it to Hagerty. They will recognize the danger and will discuss your options.

Hopefully, a good lead guy will say it looks good and you can go with option one.

That was my only conern, lead poisioning is no joke.

Randy

 

[CoronetDarter]

Hey RGAZ - I got your PM too, thanks for the response(s). I found a body guy that restores older cars and he's experienced in the lead filling. He said the same thing as you - he heats it and removes it and replaces it with a metal-based filler. BUT, upon exam he doesn't think the lead was damaged in the accident, that it was like that before. The cowl is spider webbing because there's bondo underneath - it remains to be seen how much.

After he removes the fender and starts digging in he'll let me know my options if I want to repair the cowl at the same time as the fender.