Big Torque 499' Stroker with stock manifolds

Engine, Trans & Driveline

  1. Superbeemike

    Superbeemike Active Member

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    Hey FBBO, my low compression 440 has served me well for 22 years, but I'm ready to step it up a bit. Its a 73' cast piston/crank engine I pulled from Pick N Pull and refreshed with rings and bearings years ago. I did install 906's with 2.14/1.81 valves that had the ports cleaned up. I added a "6-pack" cam that was in the .450" lift range and used the stock valve train. It has a 6 pack setup and HP manifolds. Its a decent driver, runs 87 octane, and stays cool with the A/C on during hot summer days. It's a decent setup that runs low to mid 14's in my 69' Super Bee with the 3.23's and a 2500 stall converter.

    So I've got some cash saved up and a 4.15" MP Forged crank sitting on the shelf, and I'm ready to build a stroker. I'm looking for big torque with stock manifolds, but still want it to be stock appearing. I've searched and read a bunch of builds and combinations here, and I just can't seem to find the right combo with the parts I want to use. I'm planning new rods/piston, bearings, cam, etc, but I want to reuse the following

    440 Block (will need bored - 4.36 to 4.375?)
    4.15" stroke crank
    906 Heads (2.14/1.81 - mild porting)
    6 Pack set up
    HP Manifolds
    2500 stall converter
    3.23's
    Pump Gas

    Looking for reccomendations / suggestions on where to go on compression, but I'm mostly at a loss for a cam. I'm open to all cam suggestions, I'm not scared to get adjustable rockers and set valve lash if a hydraulic is not worth it. If you have a similar combination, please share.

    Thanks - Mike

    IMG_8298.jpg Picture 2 454.jpg
     
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    • 67charger383

      67charger383 Well-Known Member

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      Just have Racer Brown grind you a custom cam and tell them you want it streetable on pump gas. (Get a solid flat tappet or a hydraulic roller)
      Headers are really a must on a 499, you'll choke your engine. My advice would be getting a set of TTI prefit headers and save the manifolds, You can always put them beck on later.
      Here's a good video on headers: (you really should with a 499)
       
    • diesel_lv

      diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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      For iron heads, if you are meaning 87 octane, I'd stay 9:1 max. If 91 octane, 10:1 max maybe. Breathing out of HP manifolds will need a stump puller cam. I like Comp 231/237 @ .050 hydraulic flat tappet, maybe 1 step up from there for that cubic inch. But a custom cam grind might do even better. The HP manifolds are good for around 550ish crank hp.
       
    • 6PKRTSE

      6PKRTSE Well-Known Member

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      I would extrude hone the intake and Exhaust manifolds. Expensive yes, but it all helped on the last 340/416 six pack we did that made 584 h.p. and looked all stock
       
    • 33 IMP

      33 IMP Well-Known Member

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      I built a 511 stroker to put in a car that i wouldnt use headers in. Used factory manifolds. Entirely UN satisfactory. I would not bother building a stroker again without really good heads (eddy rpm or better) and good headers. I bet good heads and headers will show 100hp/100 ft lbs more than a 906/manifold combo.
      (And i am gonna build another stroker- 520", victor heads,2"hookers and a solid roller. Definitely nothing against strokers!)
       
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      • Superbeemike

        Superbeemike Active Member

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        Thanks Guys, I kind of knew using manifolds would suck, just hoping I could pull off a decent build using them. I should say, I'm not completely opposed to headers and aluminum heads, I'm just opposed to the cost of switching over. Kinda wanted to keep it budget friendly and not spent over $3000. Eddy RPM Aluminum heads and Dougs headers adds an easy $2500 to the bill.
         
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        • 67charger383

          67charger383 Well-Known Member

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          Ported stock heads should be just fine
           
        • Superbeemike

          Superbeemike Active Member

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          Stick with the 906's and add headers?
           
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          • 1968rt

            1968rt Well-Known Member

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            • Superbeemike

              Superbeemike Active Member

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            • 1968rt

              1968rt Well-Known Member

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              I would ask Andyf what he thinks. He wrote the article and would know that answer.
               
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              • qkcuda

                qkcuda Well-Known Member

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                I agree, I had a 500 with pocket ported 452 heads, 236/242 hydraulic roller, 9.5:1 compression which made 550 HP and 610 TQ, but I was using 1 3/4 headers. My buddy used a cam one step smaller 230/236 and got very similar results.
                 
              • Turboomni

                Turboomni Well-Known Member

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                Well I have no real info yet but in a similar situation as you. I have a heavy 69 Fury III at 4200 lbs and did not want a rumpity drag car wannabe. Dwayne Porter designed a 440 [505] stroker for me. I told him I wanted to use HP exhaust manifolds and have enough vacuum for brakes. So he went through a new set of Stealth heads for me as when painted look stock and I went with a 440 Source 512 kit. 9.7 CR and a Porter designed hydraulic roller cam to work with the exhaust manifolds. I stuck with the 9.7 CR at Mr Porters recommendation so I can run pump premium hopefully even on the hottest days. I had a 11 inch torque converter made for my combination with 3.23 rear. I believe for the street and a heavy car as mine lower rpm up torque rules over high end HP. It will be completely painted Turquoise and look stock. Engine is complete but not in the car as of yet. Looking forward to what you come up with!
                 
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                • Superbeemike

                  Superbeemike Active Member

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                  Can you post the specs of your cam?
                   
                • Turboomni

                  Turboomni Well-Known Member

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                  Here is my card. I am using Howards hydraulic roller lifters. 20190909_164338 (1).jpg

                  Here is the 69 Fury III it's going in.
                  20190511_163048-jpg.jpg
                   
                  Last edited: Mar 1, 2021
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                  • Turboomni

                    Turboomni Well-Known Member

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                    • BLK 68 R/T

                      BLK 68 R/T FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                      I think you’ll find in your research that if you intend to run HP manifolds, the LSA of whatever cam you decide on needs to be in the 112* to 114* range for maximum benefit.
                       
                      Last edited: Mar 2, 2021
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                      • 69 GTX

                        69 GTX FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                        If you look at what the F.A.S.T. guys are doing with stock manifolds it's doable. If it were me I'd skip the stroker crank and get a set of stealth heads paint them factory color. Have a shop check them out. Then put a Icon dish piston with a compression of about 9-9.5. Then get a cam similar to above or one size smaller. That should put you in the 12s
                         
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                        • dvw

                          dvw Well-Known Member

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                          Dollar for dollar a good set of aftermarket heads, cam, and headers on your existing engine will make more power than a stroker with 906 and manifolds.
                          Doug
                           
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                          • Superbeemike

                            Superbeemike Active Member

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                            Intersting profile...Mind if I ask what it cost to have a custom grind made? Second question, how do you think this cam would react if I eventually switched to headers from HP's?
                             
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