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Body advice from those who have taken their car to a shop

Just was a quick cut and paste from a draft I had, with some editing.
I'm was thinking, based on my case, that a body shop would want you to sign something.
My case was a fight.
That was the reason I cut and pasted some of the items relevant to my car which was completely different than your situation.
My car could conceivably have had mechanical issues or damages while in their possession.
If they want you to sign something, perhaps you might add your own requirements.
That last one is usually in a "contractor's" favor.
It turns that on it's head.
Money / Deposit up front ?
Years in business at that location ?
list of references with contact info that will talk to you.
ask to see a example of the time sheet or sheets for a job in progress in the shop.

Deposits before work is started is a BIG red flag.
Short time in business or location isn't a huge red flag but one combined with a deposit request and lack of say, time sheets well the flag is starting to wave.
References should be handed to you upon request , no questions asked.
Repeat customers are most times a good sign.
Each project / car should have its own set of sheets or PC file with dates and work preformed along with supplies used up to date.
Cars used for storage tables , cob/ spider webs on projects are a bad sign

If you find and deal with a good shop do not expect a cut rate cheap deal.
Estimates........... The old crash time books were made for when these cars were at the time late models, before rust and body twist/sag and multi bondo slingers had their way with your car. So they really are a poor guide on time. The job takes whatever time it takes to be done right.
Find a decent shop and you will not get screwed on time. If they operate on their own money they want to finish so they can collect yours.
If they operate on your $ and the next poor sob they have already collected and there is no reason to get in gear on your job.
I hate to say it but many shops keep going just on whatever deposits they can collect and the few easy jobs they can finish until the mess caves in.
When you spend 15 minutes in a shop and get a bad feeling listen to your gut and 1st instinct.
I have a 69 gtx. would you recommend flange and use glue to attach a 3/4 rear quarter by flanging it at the top.? Im against using glue but was told it was strong as a weld and no warpage. I put two quarters on with the help of someone I hired , . and he went too fast .I finished it ,went a lot slower and only did a few stitch or tacks at a time moving it around. Have a few dips above the crown about an inch above the crown on driver side where its slightly warped in, each one is about 2 inches long slight inward curve., where there was too much heat. Probably warped when there was too much heat. maybe 3 spots where its warped just slightly above the crown on the quarter mainly in the middle area above the welds. I have tacked 1 inch washers in the low spots and pulled out the dents using a come a long on the other side where there were low spots.. Seems to work ok but the person Im talking to says it would take a lot of hours to fix it and still wouldn't be happy. I could try to tack the low spots and pull it out. Better to keep to trying to pull out the warped dents or replace the panel? Trying to keep as much original metal as possible .
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If AMD sheet metal is available, their installer's website has a calculator. I used it to help guide my shop in pricing out the metal work on my 68.
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