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Borgeson steering box

Did you get the 1 1/4"?


KD - did you need to shim yours like Sixpactogo shows above?

There is no need and IIRC the factory box also has the offset. The factory coupler compensates for the offset. You'll want Bergman's coupler for the Borgeson box unless you love drilling holes in steering shafts.

I spoke with Peter Bergman today and he claimed that the cooler is not necessary, but one certainly won't hurt. He does sell a nice one though for $50, so he told me. He also told me he ports the Borgeson boxes before he sends them out so they flow much better.

There's something I wish I'd known before buying.
 
KD - did you need to shim yours like Sixpactogo shows above?
Heck no…I just bolted it in place and accepted it. It posed no problem. The car aligned fine and tracks as straight as a lifelong Nun.
 
I had to remove 3 spark plugs, the headers, and the starter but I finally got the old beast out. Hopefully that was the hard part. With the new box being lighter and smaller, I shouldn't have to fight for every inch.

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Taking the left torsion bar out helps a LOT.
 
Taking the left torsion bar out helps a LOT.
I thinking that while I was under the car, but I didn't have the courage to remove it. I wasn't sure of the proper way of releasing the tension. It shouldn't matter getting the smaller Borgeson box in, will it?
 
Installing the Borgeson unit will make you smile. It reminded me of the first time I installed a mini starter.
You see with your own eyes how a replacement part can do the same job as the old part while being better, smaller and lighter.
I see no down side to this.
 
Installing the Borgeson unit will make you smile. It reminded me of the first time I installed a mini starter.
You see with your own eyes how a replacement part can do the same job as the old part while being better, smaller and lighter.
I see no down side to this.
I am REALLY looking forward to it. I've owned the car since 2000 and the steering has always been shitty.
 
Installing the Borgeson unit will make you smile. It reminded me of the first time I installed a mini starter.
You see with your own eyes how a replacement part can do the same job as the old part while being better, smaller and lighter.
I see no down side to this.

If the mini-starter doesn't sound like the Millenium Falcon trying to start, there's your downside. Also the downside of a B-body that starts easy.
 
I had the same issues a long time ago and it turned out to be a pretty straight forward fix. If the lock ring where the input goes in backs off, the steering will be loose as hell. Also the valve body on the top (where the return line goes in) was the source of all my steering box leaks on my ‘68 bee. It tends to warp. One day in about 1978 I sat down with an oil stone and the valve body and began resurfacing the valve body while watching tv at night. Took several evenings and the warpage became real apparent. When there was no more shadowing in the surface running through the o-ring grooves, I cleaned it up and installed it with new o-rings and it never leaked again. In 1987 I freshened the box with new seals, bearings, and firm feel reaction springs, retightened the lock ring, and it’s still going strong today.
 
I had to pull the column to get the new coupler together. I tried to do it in the car but the third time one of the c-clamps fell and hit me in the forehead I said enough. The coupler is on, but the firewall gasket was bad so I had to order another one. Now I can't put it back together until the gasket shows up.

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I'm looking for some info on PS fluid. I went to Bergman's site and he recommends Driven synthetic fluid. Any of you guys used it? I read online it was developed by Joe Gibbs' racing team.

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I can't remember, which way should the firewall mounting plate be oriented inside the car? I replaced the gasket and I'm ready to re-install, just not sure how that plate sits. Any photos are appreciated!

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First off, you could have made the firewall/column seal with materials from any hardware store.
Secondly, the plate only fits on the firewall one way. You simply slide the column in and rotate the plate until it fits.
Finally, Fluid from a GM dealer will work, # 10-5073.

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Another question. How much of the column should be extended beyond the bottom bearing? I think the inner shaft has been pushed in, it seems to be too short to reach the shaft on the steering box?
I'd still also like to see a picture of the inside mounting bracket. It's really tight for room under the dash and I'm having a lot of aggravation rotating it without hitting other things. I don't want to have to keep pulling the column back and forth to get that bracket correct. Thanks.

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I'll check it out. Thanks, KD. BTW this is what I seem to be short by in the length. Also, it looks like the the floor plate mounts with the longest "ear" facing up on the right side, closest to the go fast pedal.

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I can't remember, which way should the firewall mounting plate be oriented inside the car? I replaced the gasket and I'm ready to re-install, just not sure how that plate sits. Any photos are appreciated!

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It looks to me that your plate is about right the way it is in your picture. the two closest holes end up on the bottom. Pretty obvious once you get it slid in. It does help to take the brake pedal out but not mandatory. As far as the length of the shaft, appearing too short, it looks like you have the coupler slid all the way up the shaft. You should be able to line it up with the steering gear and slide it down on to the spine. Not sure why your pictures don't show it lining up better than they are. Once you slide the coupler on, things should line up. One other thing.......I don't think the Borgi coupler has the centering spine to make sure the steering wheel is centered on the gear shaft. You have to make sure your steering gear is centered lock to lock and also make sure your steering wheel is centered when you install it on the shaft.
 
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From what I recall, The steering column center shaft was redesigned for the 1967 year. It became a hollow tube within a tube that would collapse on impact to prevent a Shish-K-Bob. When these columns were built, the length was set with the tube within a tube and hot plastic was injected into a channel to keep the two tubes connected but still able to collapse. Over the years, the plastic can get brittle and allow the tubes to move around a bit.
I wrote about this in my Borgeson installation thread. Somehow when I pulled the column out, I pressed the coupler rearward a bit and the tube within a tube compressed. I simply tapped the shaft back out to the point where it all fit together correctly and called it good.
Regarding the centering of the steering box, I simply put a line on the splines and kept it still as I slid the coupler on the input shaft.
 
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