Brighter Headlights

[Mopar Hunter]

Found this article on Mopar connection. It shows the current draw difference between the halogen, and the retobrite.

Gallery: Holley's RetroBright LED Headlamps Provide Superior Lighting - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

The Retrobrights are much brighter than the halogen lights. Each Retrobright low beam draws 1.5 amps compared to 5.5 amps for the halogen. That’s a big difference.

 

[DGE330/NC]

Generally, yeah but the LEDs draw a fraction of the current that sealed beams lamps do.
The OP could have done without the relay kit.

but he's using the Halogen. he never mentioned LED's. But yes LED's do draw considerably less amperage

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Found this article on Mopar connection. It shows the current draw difference between the halogen, and the retobrite.

Gallery: Holley's RetroBright LED Headlamps Provide Superior Lighting - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech

To be clear, the article is about 55 watt H4 based Hella Halogens, not the inexpensive sealed beam Halogens shown in the OP video. The wattage numbers are way different. Also, the Dart in the article is a 2-lamp system, double their numbers for a 4-lamp installation.

 

[71RRHI]

My RetroBrites are here. I hope to get them installed this weekend. I will try and get some before and after pics. And some amp readings to see what the draw is.

 

[Kennith]

Great video especially for this time of the year.

Holley is outrageous.

Another member mentioned Octane Lighting here is a video showing the before and after of their lights on a 68 Charger.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

relay kit is a smart thing to do. it takes the amp load off the dash wiring

Yes, but… depending also if relays are with fuse or breaker protection, because as far I know and per expert testimonials, the light switch carries a breaker protection system, which will be virtually bypassed using relays to get the load out of the stock wiring. It will hardly be activated with just the relay triggering job.

So not just the relay but also the protection for the relays circuit must be considered.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

On a side note, I’m not a big fan of LEDs yet on classic cars, however mostly sure I will move sooner or later to a Led setup when I get convinced about they get the same radiation light all around for stock housings and lenses than regular lamps. When that time comes, I will proceed with a warm white temp rate ( 3000-3500K ) for headlights, nothing so whitey like the video shown.

 

[dfrazz]

Yes, but… depending also if relays are with fuse or breaker protection, because as far I know and per expert testimonials, the light switch carries a breaker protection system, which will be virtually bypassed using relays to get the load out of the stock wiring. It will hardly be activated with just the relay triggering job.

So not just the relay but also the protection for the relays circuit must be considered.

The harness from @Crackedback has fuses built in. If you watch the video I posted you will see them.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Yes… but meaning for those building their own relays setup… I made my own. That’s something easy to build by each one having the patiente.

This relay upgrade is a very common upgrade in Venezuela, made daily back in the days on every car. Sure I built a totally diff personalized setup. I’m using the stock wiring bulkhead included to feed the halogen headlights upgrade. My relays are down the dash frame And sourced from the amm stud, alt side. But is just about a personal preference, after also upgrade the amm paths.

Stock bulkhead terminals are plenty yet to handle the halogen headlights load as far they are in good conditions. Relays and their plugs itself use in fact same/similar terminals, so why despite the bulkhead for them if the relay already carries them?

once again, is just because I made my own build matching my prefferences and requirement for a non visible relay setup down the hood. So they are down the dash without cut a wire.

 

[68-500]

Holley lost me at composite lenses. Who wants to spend that kind of money on something that will just yellow and diminish all gains you just spent your dollars on? Nope, quality halagens and relay kit will do me just fine. Hell I drove mine to Tulsa last night the stock lighting seemed adequate and I’ve never spent the time to aim them. Should’ve only improve when I aim and get around to the relay

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Didn’t know they are plastic… one point less to proceed on my side. Glass for me all the time.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

The Retrobright lenses are made of UV Treated Polycarbonate. Much more impact resistive than glass, 10 times more according to Holley. There is a hammer test video floating around out there. I have replaced a few Hellas after stone strikes over the years.

Not too concerned with yellowing considering they will see minimal UV exposure while being stored. Have been a longtime fan of the Hella E-codes, one thing that bugged the hell out me was they are not well sealed around the bulbs. Would occasionally find some moisture in them, internally fogged up lens after any water exposure. Causing, over time, the reflector surface to degrade.

 

[OzCharger69]

I changed the stock ones with Narva H1 and H4s for normal and high beams. They push 100W each and they push more light than my modern 4WD on LED projectors. They are wired on a relay because they pull a fair bit of power.

Narva | Halogen Headlamp - H4 Conversion Kit - 5 3/4" High/Low Beam Free Form

 

[70ChargerRT]

Generally, yeah but the LEDs draw a fraction of the current that sealed beams lamps do.
The OP could have done without the relay kit.

Exactly. How many times has this been covered before and I have even posted the draw of the LED lights after I did my research. The world famous headlight relay is dead unless you just want to run the old school lights.

 

[Geoff 2]

It is all relative......

Are expensive LED lights that much better than Halogen lamps? If so, worth the extra cost....And I certainly would not want plastic lenses which can & do turn yellow, despite what Holley says. Glass never goes yellow.
One thing I have not seen mentioned. Using Hal lamps in a 4 headlight car is going to draw a lot of current. What would be important to get maximum current with minimal voltage drop to the lamps is to use two Bosch relays, one for Lo one for Hi beam. The supply to the relays should come direct from the bat +ve terminal, with an inline fuse for each relay. If the lamps are just connected to the original harness, you will get all the voltage drop through the harness.
This improvement will only make a small incremental improvement but I think the low cost makes it worth it.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Again, "On a factory stock charging system with an ammeter, should never add loads directly at the battery. Headlight relays are a good idea, but the lamp load needs to be on the alternator side of the ammeter. If not, the loads are just shifted from the lighting circuit to the ammeter/related connections and the bulkhead charging system connections. The headlamp current draw will also register as false charging current."

 

[Kern Dog]

One thing I have not seen mentioned. Using Hal lamps in a 4 headlight car is going to draw a lot of current. What would be important to get maximum current with minimal voltage drop to the lamps is to use two Bosch relays, one for Lo one for Hi beam. The supply to the relays should come direct from the bat +ve terminal, with an inline fuse for each relay. If the lamps are just connected to the original harness, you will get all the voltage drop through the harness.
This improvement will only make a small incremental improvement but I think the low cost makes it worth it.

Relays not mentioned? Where have you been, man?

I have been considering ordering the new Holley Retrobright LED headlights after hearing great reviews. The problem is they are crazy expensive ($186/each and I need 4). So I ordered and installed a relay kit from @Crackedback along with Sylvania Xtravision headlights. I had done this previously on my Cuda and they made a huge difference. Again, on my '68 Charger it was amazing to see what an hour or so of installing the relay kit and swapping headlights can do. And it is a fraction of the cost of the new Holley headlights. I put together this video of the install, only wish I had a before and after shot to show but trust me they are way brighter than stock.

relay kit is a smart thing to do. it takes the amp load off the dash wiring

Not in this case. Simply you can get more for your money witha little research. Start with uising a simple cube relay to off load the demand on the wire harness. Then buy a good set of Halogen bulbs and get most of the benefits at a better investment.

“cube relay” as in Bosch or Bosch style automotive relays? Agree, adding headlights relays can be simple and cheap for those who possess the required skill sets, a relay kit is not absolutely necessary. There is clearly is a market for them, however.

“More for the Money? Comparing the lighting performance of sealed beam Halogens to any of the other modern alternatives mentioned here is not realistic. If the original lighting circuit is in good shape, you can get away with not running relays with the Retrobrights. The current draw is about the same as the original Tungsten based incandescent sealed beam lamps from back in the day, totaling around 15 amps on high beam on a 4-lamp system. No need to have that current running through the stock 16ga lighting circuit, bulkhead connections, and switches.

The headlights and taillights on my 70 Coronet convertible worked but were very dim. Found the headlight harness ground connection was not very good. Re-did the ground connection, and now they are as bright as a stock setup could be. Want to order a relay kit from @Crackedback , but his inbox is full and has not returned my PM. I placed my order four Holley retrobrights with classic Industries. They were a little cheaper $179.99 each. Used their 20% off coupon code on the order and got them for about $150

Yes, but… depending also if relays are with fuse or breaker protection, because as far I know and per expert testimonials, the light switch carries a breaker protection system, which will be virtually bypassed using relays to get the load out of the stock wiring. It will hardly be activated with just the relay triggering job.

So not just the relay but also the protection for the relays circuit must be considered.

The harness from @Crackedback has fuses built in. If you watch the video I posted you will see them.

Yes… but meaning for those building their own relays setup… I made my own. That’s something easy to build by each one having the patiente.

Relays have been mentioned numerous times.

 

[Jeff Peterson]

Octane’s have glass lenses and steel backs

I have a pair in my ‘84 w150 with the crystal lens and am very satisfied with them

 

[Geoff 2]

Sorry,
This ^^^ is nonsense. Using your logic, when the starter is engaged, the bulkhead connections would burn out because of the several hundred amps that the starter draws. Because the starter is also connected to the bat + ve terminal. It would also mean according to the above 'logic', that the huge current draw from the starter cranking would snap off the ammeter needle as it slams the -ve peg!!
I have my own car wired as in post #35, as well as several others, with zero problems.

 

[Geoff 2]

My post #39 refers to post #36.

Kern,
What I was referring to as 'not mentioned' was connecting the relays direct to the batt for minimum voltage drop.....