Broken Studs how to remove hub?

Tires and Wheels (Mopar Hubcaps Too)

  1. Stingerdorian

    Stingerdorian Member

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    Hello,
    new to wrench turning on cars. Been a welder most of my Days. I was wondering if anyone could help me with replacing broken studs and removal of hub on my 68’ Charger.

    711A1D0B-1AF9-440D-ADF9-239F5C9A8BA3.jpeg
     
  2. Jerry Hall

    Jerry Hall FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Can you remove that broken off wheel from the brake drum? Sometimes there are some sort of (for the lack of a better word) thin lock washer over a couple of the studs. If they are there, just pry them off and the drum should slide off the studs. If the brakes are stuck to the drums from sitting, you may have to use a hammer or pry bar as an aid. You can also use a brake spoon to turn the adjuster in to try and release the brakes from the drum.
    Once the drum is off just take a hammer and drive them out of the axle.
     
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    • kiwigtx

      kiwigtx Trendsetter Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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      If that brake drum is not coming off, you may have a serious 'lip' on the braking surface inside the drum. This will actually prevent you from pulling the drum off also. If there is no evidence of the lock washers as described by Jerry above, then you may have to slacken the parking brake cable right off.
      If that doesn't work, and the lock washers are present, you might have to carefully drill the two studs out with the lock washers. I say two, as I have only ever seen two in place before....I might be wrong here, but I am sure not all studs have a locking washer.

      The studs will press out of the axle once it is removed from the housing, so don't fret too much about damaging the studs any further....they need replacing anyway. :)
       
    • kiwigtx

      kiwigtx Trendsetter Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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      You could also carefully run a thin cut-off disc through the centre of the studs...that will cut any attachments from the brake drum.
       
    • chtampa

      chtampa FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Drive the studs through with a punch, heat the center with a torch while prying out.
       
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      • 493 Mike

        493 Mike FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        I would think a thin cold chisel would separate the hub from the drum, then if the retainer/s is present (doubtful on a 68) I grab and twist to break them off (only there to hold on drums before assembly). Like mentioned above if drums are worn the brake shoes may have to be backed off (using a brake spoon and a narrow screw driver or 1/8" wire-think welding rod). If the drum is rusted to the axle hub you may have to heat the center, around the joint, to release the drum. After removal, remove the 5 3/8" retaining nuts and pull the axle out of the housing. Support the flange and drive out the studs, press or drive the new studs in while supporting the flange. Good time to repack the axle bearing and check the inner seal condition or replace it.
        Now, what about the other side? The axle shaft end play adjuster is on the right side. Good luck!
        Mike
         
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        • 65-440

          65-440 Well-Known Member

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          I've got to hear the story on how this one happened !!
           
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          • hunt2elk

            hunt2elk FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            Left handed studs???
             
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            • zyzzyx

              zyzzyx FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              O.K., so after you have everything apart, take the axle to a shop & have them put a new bearing on that
              Baby! After all of the beating and pounding that was done, the bearing and race have been damaged.
              O.K., So how DID you get to this point????
               
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              • Photon440

                Photon440 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                Hi Stingerdorian, :welcome:
                I hope you get your problem sorted out...
                 
              • 1 Wild R/T

                1 Wild R/T FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                So your background is as a welder.... So you have grinders & torches & stuff.... I think I'd start with a 4 1/2" grinder & cut off wheel & cut that mag wheel center away in pieces, trim as close to the outside of the studs as you can, then between them toward the center.. Break all the aluminum out of the way so you can focus on what remains of the lug nuts...

                As was mentioned there may be left hand threaded studs but in the picture I get the impression thats the right side of the car & should have right hand threaded studs..

                If the nuts can't be removed back to the 4 1/2" grinder, cut the studs off flush with the brake drum... Remove the drum & punch out the remains of the studs...
                 
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                • Don Frelier

                  Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  It's the left hand side (drivers side). There are plugs in the backing plate to access the brake adjusters. You can use a brake spoon and back off the adjusters.
                  This lets the shoes contract and helps get the drum over the shoes. Spray all the studs and center of the hub with penetrating oil and whack the drum with a ball peen or mash hammer.
                  You may still need a drum puller to get it off but you need to break it free from the flange of the axle first.
                  Have fun with it.
                   
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                  • Stingerdorian

                    Stingerdorian Member

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                    For sure, so my brother started air impacting them to get them off.
                    I was actually deployed to Iraq so I couldn’t tell him they were reversed threads so I finally said to hell with it and cut the old rim off and that’s where I am today
                     
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                    • zyzzyx

                      zyzzyx FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                      C-4?
                       
                    • QuickBpBp

                      QuickBpBp FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                      Hammer on what is left of that rim, it should just fall off... From behind take a piece of wood to hammer on the lip of the drum working around in a circle. It should come off as just the drum... there is no "hub" like the front drums it's an axle.. All you are removing is this part..
                      upload_2021-1-31_14-42-30.jpeg
                       
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                      • 65-440

                        65-440 Well-Known Member

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                        Wow that sucks! That is one big ooops!! Those not familiar with these cars have no clue about the drivers side studs. I think the axle bearing will be fine, might even be able to get the new studs in without pulling the axle shaft. I've had good luck doing it that way, put the stud in at an angle from behind the axle flange and rotate the axle towards the stud. Depends on how much room though. Good luck!
                         
                      • Fran Blacker

                        Fran Blacker FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                        Friend use to take a ball peen hammer and put the ball end between each wheel stud and hit BP hammer. Claimed it helped loosen drum said axle and drum would rust together. True?? Need that wheel piece off.
                         
                      • 493 Mike

                        493 Mike FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                        I pulled the drums off my new 94 2500 and antisiezed the mating surfaces. I can still just pull the drums by hand for inspection.
                        Mike
                         
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                        • Don Frelier

                          Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                          Anti seize is like Frank's red hot.
                          "We put that shit on everything"
                           
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                          • Jeremiah

                            Jeremiah FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                            I would be breaking out the sledge hammer.
                             
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