Bushing issue solution

[Darius]

A while back I posted about the urethane bushings in my Street Lynx 4 link. They sent me new bushings ...free... I replaced them and I kept hearing grinding noises when turning at slow speeds. We re-positioned the mount tabs on the axle for the upper bars after loosening them and hooking the link bar to it then raising and lowering the axle with a transmission jack. Not exactly rocket science but we were able to see very easily where we needed to place them for maximum efficiency/lowest stress.
When complete I didn't even back all the way out of the garage and was hearing that same terrible grinding noise. The kind you just know there is a grenaded pile of metal chunks waiting for you to find them! We called the guy who rebuilt my pumpkin. EVERYTHING in there was brand new. He said the slip gear lube additive wasn't working properly ,put two more bottles in. I'm thinking this is not going to magically weld all those metal chunks back together! Amazingly, there is no more noise in the rear end. Who would have believed it?

 

[Darter6]

I just had a friend tell me the same thing, a fresh rear.Problem was when assembled the clutch packs went in dry.It took a few days for the lube to soak in.No more noise.

 

[Cranky]

It amazes me that people still assemble this stuff dry. You don't assemble an engine dry so why do any other drive line part that way???
Darius, what type of SureGrip are you using? The cone or clutch type shouldn't need more than one bottle of additive ever and I even ran a few without additive. I would put some in if there was a problem with chatter but in most cases, there wasn't a problem.

 

[Darius]

Clutch type. It never made any noise until around 5000 miles in. Then it started clunking when I made right hand turns. We put two bottles in when we reassembled the rear axle assembly as instructed.

 

[747mopar]

That's great that something so simple fixed it.

 

[Darius]

I still cannot believe it. Thought for sure it was junk!

 

[gtxno1]

Here is the deal if it is the clutch type and has been driven for a while the damage may be done already to those plates adding the modifier may be masking the problem for now

 

[Cranky]

Here is the deal if it is the clutch type and has been driven for a while the damage may be done already to those plates adding the modifier may be masking the problem for now

Only one way to find out.....but I've seen stranger stuff happen. The Track Lock in my Durango raised hell one day and I was over 100 miles from home. Drove on home being careful not to be on the gas during turns or backing up and turning. That's when it made the racket...backing up out of a driveway that was downhill and was pulling up on the road at a fairly steep angle. Once I got home I pulled the rear cover off expecting to see carnage but everything looked ok. This was with only around 35k miles or so on it....and that's when I gave it some STP instead of using the factory friction modifier. It has 100k miles on it now and hasn't made any noise since and it still works ok.

 

[5.7 hemi]

The clutch plates are probably scored now. During the winter, I'd get new clutches installed, after they soak for a couple of hours.

 

[Cranky]

The clutch plates are probably scored now. During the winter, I'd get new clutches installed, after they soak for a couple of hours.

Really don't need to let them soak but should be lubed on assembly however it won't hurt them to lounge around in oil one bit

 

[5.7 hemi]

Put them in oil when you start the tear down.