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by torsion bar install

wedge5

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I took out the big bars. They measures 1.08, they are aftermarket. I going to put the stock (.88) back in.
The issue I am having is the hex ends are not lined up. The flat sides are not lined up so how do I get them in. Do I have to lift the control arm to get the hex end lined up with the control arm torsion bar saddle?
 
Last edited:
I took out the big bars. They measures 1.08, they are aftermarket. I going to put the stock (.88) back in.
The issue I am having is the hex ends are not lined up. The flat sides are not lined up so how do I get them in. Do I have to lift the control arm to get the hex end lined up with the control arm torsion bar saddle?

the Lower Control Arm has to be in full drop position before you insert the Torsion Bar
Also remove the rubber snubbers on the upper Control Arm, to make sure the LC can go in full drop position.
 
I had this same problem. The bars actually have a bit of a twist built in to them. To put mine in took 3 guys. One to pry down on the adjustment arm that the bolt rotates, another guy to line up the bar in the front and a third to drive it in with a mallet and brass drift. That made it a lot easier for me.
 
Do I need to have the car aligned after I put different bars in? That is the only thing I changed on the front end.
 
Uh what?? You might wanna get the alignment checked. Anytime the wheels are moved out of position the alignment will change, even just alittle can wear the tires pretty quickly.
 
Yes you need an alignment. Any adjustment on any suspension component will affect the alignment.
 
Also remember they are left and right = not interchangeable depending on the Pre-Twist.
Should be marked "L" and "R" at one end.
 
If they need to be up just a smidge.....floor jack and a couple pumps under the tire to rotate the LCA where you need it....If it needs to go the opposite, like Dodger mentioned; make sure the bullet shaped upper control arm bumpers are out to ensure the suspension is at full deflection. Also, make sure the T-Bar adjust bolts are completely loose. Be sure to pack the torsion bar sockets with grease again, once the bars are reinstalled.
 
How about the torsion bar seals that go on one end? Do those wear out or affect the torsion bar performance?
 
Sometimes they just come apart from being on the car for 40 plus years. New ones can be had for cheap and they only keep "crap" out of the socket end, and do not effect the performance of the torsion bar.
 
New issue. I got the drivers side in but the adjuster bolt stop arm is all the way up. How do I get it to drop? I had to raise the wheel to align the hex ends and when I dropped the wheel it didn't come back down with the control arm. I hope I decribed this correctly. I still haven't got the other side to go in but that is for another time. Man I am starting to think that I shouldn't have messed with it.
 
You can loosen the lca nut, that will help. Dont forget to retorque it when you get the weight of the car back on it (wheels on the ground).
 
New issue. I got the drivers side in but the adjuster bolt stop arm is all the way up. How do I get it to drop? I had to raise the wheel to align the hex ends and when I dropped the wheel it didn't come back down with the control arm. I hope I decribed this correctly. I still haven't got the other side to go in but that is for another time. Man I am starting to think that I shouldn't have messed with it.

i`n not sure if i got you right...
does it look like this?
photo3.jpg
 
You don't raise the suspension to insert the bar end... you LOWER it as far as it can go, that means taking the UCA stop bumper off ! You may have to give it a little pry bar assistance to get the bar in, don't forget to swipe a little grease on the stub of the bar.
 
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