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Any dipping places in the New England area to get a car stripped?
Do you really wish to have it Chem Stripped OR have you considered Soda Blast? New England huh? Kind of Vague...Ha Ha After all, New England is 72,992 Sq Miles. How about a "State" to get you closer to your required service...as, I am originally from "New England" Personally, I would go with a Dustless Blasting firm such as: S & S Dustless Blasting, LLC offers mobile, water-based surface preparation services throughout Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Vermont. S & S Dustless Blasting mobile, water-based surface preparation ...https://ssdustless.com/ OR: New England Dustless Mobile Blasting LLCnewenglanddustlessmobileblasting.com/
Reason being, I believe Dustless Blasting is cheaper than Chem Strip And a "safer" process. BTW: Me Thursday 13 June sandblasting the engine bay.... 103 degrees outside
I am no fan of chemical dipping..... All exterior metal I would chemical strip by hand and everything thing else would be some type of blasting....that’s the way I approach mine and is just my opinion.... Chem strip the exterior is the least caustic to the metal and ensures zero warpage and no deep etchings....The downsize is dealing with harsh chemicals and cleanup to the user.
agree 100% ^^^^^^^ I worked on a car that was dustless blasted, when I cut off a 1/4 panel it had 3 inches of "silt" (for lack of a better word) packed everywhere
Yeah, Im "Sandblasting" the engine bay of my 1969 SC/Rambler right now...3rd day in a row. (#2 built, first sold to the public as the #1 was a Photo-Type) There are Pros and Cons to "media blasting" Anyone remember "Donny" ? Our Forum member, EXPERT on blasting? Anyway, YES elubb440, with Soda, this can happen as the soda particle is smaller than #30 or #60 Silca Sand That being said, with ALL media blasting, you need to spare/vacuum the body. BURT: When ACID dipping (Now for EPA sake it's called Chem Stripping) you have the same "parallel" issue... If the Stripping Company does not get the entirety of the Chem (ACID) off, you will have issues also. Another thing is: I would love to see the OPs project for a better assessment of his best path to take (In my opinion) I had my 63 Polara Max Wedge Clone in an auto body shop for 6 years, cost of $6,500 total loss with lost parts. I pulled the car out, took it to Pacific Powder Coating, Palmdale CA for Soda Blast of the car 1. Excellent job, stripped to bare metal 2. NO Residue, and if there was, I would have GLADLY vacuumed it out... 3. They "E-coated" it for me 4. Cost? $1,400 total And yes, I was thoroughly pleased as it was completed in 2 days.
Here is the car today: So, make mine a "Hard Media" and not Chem Strip
Auto Tech from 72, 900+ Sq Miles New England...show us a pic of your Project!
not everyone is "do it yourself" equipped.........but I prefer to cut away bad metal first, then "blast as I go" working on smaller areas and accessing the hard to reach places......... I usually have multiple blast sessions on a single job for example.... cutting away a rotted trunk and/or floor pan allows access inside the frame rails........ why waste time and media on a rotted pan? cutting away a rotted quarter allows access to the outer wheelhouse which may be savable..... in many cases i like to "peel up" the bottoms of the hinge pillar and door jamb (and other similar problem areas), blast them clean, and brush weldable primer in there (very anti rust).... I cringe when I see rust stains bleeding out of the seams
Yup, that is what I did, Trunk Floor pan was rusted, good ol' AMD trunk pan...BUT, after we media blasted (Soda Blasted at Pacific Powder coating) eldubb440...THAT is when I found the passenger front floor pan that you mentioned...along with the damaged left front fender... ALL Hidden by the first paint shop... But, anyway,
For me I know what works and what lasts.....you can check mils all over my car and it is in or below restoration specs.... Versus cars that are stripped fast and the spray filled...they are then sanded beautifully and look great for a short time......the thickness is the nature of the beast...
Just added a photo
I am unable to see the pic Resend?
I do understand that with true "Acid dipping" the immersion time is critical... The more time "in the tank" the more metal is etched away....
The photo shows on the first post
Got it....it does not look too bad...? Show some more pics... 1. Did you receive or research the dustless Blasting shops I provided? 2. Are you closer to RI (my home state) or Maine?
lol......To the OP call the “high end” restoration shops and ask them what they do....Frank Badalson, Vance Cummings, Hodge restorations and even our resident El Dub whom posted....
Only in my dreams could I have a car like Moparnation.... just saying...just wishing....
Whatever ski.....you have beautiful rides....I’m only talking about the process....I did the same process myself from start to finish for paint/body work. The information I used was from collaborating with the guys with proven quality in the restoration arena. I just don’t do paint and body work anymore....I don’t have the space nor the time to invest.... These same elements can be done at a home shop......with the same results if done right with the proper conditions. It’s all in the prep......the paint portion is the easy part.....
No reply from the OP (Original Poster) Oh well, we provided him with plenty of info/Data