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Clear coat later ?

I agree with ElDubb....Curing is probably even better now. Being straight black I don't think you will have an issue even if you burn through a touch in a few spots. Take your time and it will be fine.
 
I agree with ElDubb....Curing is probably even better now. Being straight black I don't think you will have an issue even if you burn through a touch in a few spots. Take your time and it will be fine.
Good to hear. Thanks guys !
 
He was being paid by the hour & milking it. As well as claiming time he wasn't even working.

if he's good, and doing nice work; you have to let him "milk" it........ quality work is almost priceless

honestly, my first rule is "appreciation"........... I bend over backwards 8 different ways for the guys I do work for. Bust my balls, and the **** gets dragged to the street; it's only happened once
 
if he's good, and doing nice work; you have to let him "milk" it........ quality work is almost priceless

honestly, my first rule is "appreciation"........... I bend over backwards 8 different ways for the guys I do work for. Bust my balls, and the **** gets dragged to the street; it's only happened once
I did overlook the milking for a while. As i knew his value as a good body/ paint guy. Especially going thru several before him. But when i would walk in and see him watching rick & morty cartoons on his phone, watching bit coin seminars , working on his own projects he brought with him, and claiming multiple hours that i knew for fact he did not work, all i could think of was his hi hourly rate & lack of production. I had enough !
It takes more than being skilled to be good.
 
The only concern I think is future resistance to chipping. Letting it cure then scuffing and clear again will give you a mechanical bond. Spraying all coats within the specified time allows a chemical bond to the layer below it. Much strong bond chemically.
 
The only concern I think is future resistance to chipping. Letting it cure then scuffing and clear again will give you a mechanical bond. Spraying all coats within the specified time allows a chemical bond to the layer below it. Much strong bond chemically.
I see your point about the bond. But i'm not overly worried about chipping. It won't be driven daily. Or be a top notch show car. Just a good looker - i hope. Lol.
 
Eh it'll look fine. The amount of weather and environment these cars see is so little you should be fine. That's like the guys spending huge money on clear when they paint stuff like this, but cheap **** for their nice daily driver. The daily sees the sun everyday for years and that should have the expensive clear on it, not the car in the garage under a cover :)
 
if he's good, and doing nice work; you have to let him "milk" it........ quality work is almost priceless

honestly, my first rule is "appreciation"........... I bend over backwards 8 different ways for the guys I do work for. Bust my balls, and the **** gets dragged to the street; it's only happened once
I can't agree there, I've done work for others and would never do that to anyone.. fair is fair. Good has a lot to do with how you treat your costumer too.

If he was really good he would have made sure he had enough before starting knowing full well that only 1 coat could very well result in even more headaches. Why not just throw a coat of sealer on it and wait?

With some careful sanding like mentioned I think it will be fine. Good luck
 
I can't agree there, I've done work for others and would never do that to anyone.. fair is fair. Good has a lot to do with how you treat your costumer too.

dude was a jerkoff, and I gave him 3 strikes........ I have since learned to pick and choose who's stuff I work on..... I'm too old, too nice, and way too good at what I do....... and I completely agree, fair is fair
 
dude was a jerkoff, and I gave him 3 strikes........ I have since learned to pick and choose who's stuff I work on..... I'm too old, too nice, and way too good at what I do....... and I completely agree, fair is fair
I don't doubt that at all, I was referring to the OP's body guy lol.
 
I'm gonna chime in and tell you that your paint rep is probably right. One coat isn't sufficient from problems happening. I speak of PPG paint but I know the others Dupont and BASF are the same. You have a thin layer, to get the new paint to bond you need to scuff as everyone has said. One clear on a clear will peel down the road eventually unless you use a "hot" reducer. The problem with using a hot reducer is it's gonna eat thru the clear and more than likely blister the base. I too thin layer of primer, base or anything is an accident waiting to happen. You want my sales rep's number to verify. You need to sand the clear, re base coat and then clear with the proper amount of clear and stop trying to shortcut on your paint. You save a buck and get a guy who has 45 yrs experience but he shoots one coat of clear to seal ? I call bs. Anyone who knows paint knows paint knows you can't do that. My advice before you waste time and money on taking a chance and reclear is to take the professionals advice (your paint rep/salesman) and do what he says which I think is start over. But you want to hear the easy answer. Good luck, post pics when it fails.
 
Thanks for "chiming in". I must say tho what you've said seems contradictory to some of the other replies. And i'm unclear as to how i, " saved a buck " by hiring someone with 45 years experience. As the hourly rate i paid was not disclosed. As for "wanting to hear the easy answer" , if you look at the 1st post you will read that i asked for insight. Not an easy fix. And fyi, the reps suggestion was to spray 1 light tac coat first.
I appreciate everyones advice. As i am no pro. Just a paying learning customer. But i'm not here for arguments. Or to have things assumed or commented on about my pay agreements. Thanks
 
Definitely didn't mean as my post to come off as an argument and I apologize. My statement about trying to say a buck was you hired a professional to come to your house instead of take your car to the professional to where if this happened it would be there mess to deal with and not yours such as now. I sprayed my fair share of paint and one thing I know is it's developed to work as a system and to be put on properly. That's not saying you can't make a mistake and find a solution to repair it and have it work out. But paint really works best when it's a chemical bond such as getting all the layers on in the time the manufacturer says, and to get the proper MIL. Your paint rep said to spray a light tack coat so I guess You can do a good scotch brite on the paint and give that a shot. If it were me I would bite the bullet, sand it down and re-shoot the base and then the clear. But that's just me. I really do hope it comes out good for you !!
 
I've done plenty of jobs where a panel gets scratched, or there is a mishap during spraying, or a chunk of dirt that just wont sand out........... panel gets sanded, repaired area gets base, entire panel gets cleared over...... the repaired panel usually looks so nice, there is a temptation to do it to the entire car.

repair shops blend base over small repairs every day; then clear over the entire panel (panel clean and sanded of course, no finer than 1000)

in this case, I'd probably dust a coat or 2 of base over the job before re-clearing
 
I can see both sides as I've experienced the wrinkles and blisters but have also done plenty of scuff and re shoot jobs as well. Think the big thing is to at least stick with the same brand and type of clear as to not get something that has a stronger thinner. Most of my mishaps have happened on fairly fresh paints where the jobs done on fully cured paint always went smoother.
 
"lifting" usually happens on a sanded edge; when too much material is applied too wet, and takes too long to flash; allowing the solvent to attack the "edge"
 
I'm gonna chime in and tell you that your paint rep is probably right. One coat isn't sufficient from problems happening. I speak of PPG paint but I know the others Dupont and BASF are the same. You have a thin layer, to get the new paint to bond you need to scuff as everyone has said. One clear on a clear will peel down the road eventually unless you use a "hot" reducer. The problem with using a hot reducer is it's gonna eat thru the clear and more than likely blister the base. I too thin layer of primer, base or anything is an accident waiting to happen. You want my sales rep's number to verify. You need to sand the clear, re base coat and then clear with the proper amount of clear and stop trying to shortcut on your paint. You save a buck and get a guy who has 45 yrs experience but he shoots one coat of clear to seal ? I call bs. Anyone who knows paint knows paint knows you can't do that. My advice before you waste time and money on taking a chance and reclear is to take the professionals advice (your paint rep/salesman) and do what he says which I think is start over. But you want to hear the easy answer. Good luck, post pics when it fails.
if it fails, i'll be sure to post the failed pic you asked for.
 
What he said!!!^^^ If he started this mess and stands behind it, he should be able to handle the situation.....especially with 45 years experience.

45 years experience could make him 65 or it could make him 90, depending on when he got into the business.
 
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