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Clear coat later ?

where do you find these guys? weren't you the one who had a major mess last time?..........

sand the clear you have on there with 600 and paint over it......... if you break through the clear, that is a new set of problems........

That is the only issue I can see. One coat leaves no room for error when scuffing but if he layed it uniform it should be a non issue.

Why didn't you go with a single stage urethane in black?
 
That is the only issue I can see. One coat leaves no room for error when scuffing but if he layed it uniform it should be a non issue.

Why didn't you go with a single stage urethane in black?
I followed pro's advice. But now that i've learned a few things ( the hard way) , next time i do one, i'll get my nerve up & spray single stage myself. I'm already confident i couldn't f up anymore than the idiots i've hired. Ha
 
45 years experience could make him 65 or it could make him 90, depending on when he got into the business.

Maybe hes 90 and in a wheelchair.....that's why it took him so long to reach the top of the car

:lol::D
 
With a black base your in luck if you do burn through on the prep for the next clear coats. As long as you do not burn through the sealer your painter can blend in some black base before the next clear coats. When you do get it shot make sure that you get 2 more nice wet coats laid on.

We blend color and clear on late models every week , as long as your painter knows his products and prep you should not have any problems.
Just my take, but if your painter did not know how much clear it was going to take and he was shooting in a cold booth your better off having someone else finish it. :eek:
 
Let it sit until spring or summer. Wet sand with 500 grit, just be mindful of edges. Wipe the car down with warm soapy water (dawn original ) is best. Re- Base with medium reducer added, let flash and Re clear with 3 coats of high solids clear. Clear is NOT formulated to go over clear. It is formulated to cross link with base coat.
 
Let it sit until spring or summer. Wet sand with 500 grit, just be mindful of edges. Wipe the car down with warm soapy water (dawn original ) is best. Re- Base with medium reducer added, let flash and Re clear with 3 coats of high solids clear. Clear is NOT formulated to go over clear. It is formulated to cross link with base coat.
Thank you for your advice. Though i must admit, it seems the more people who respond, the higher the number of different answers i get. Even down to what grit sand paper to use. I've read and heard numbers from 500 through 1500. All coming from people knowledgeable and experienced in the field. I appreciate everyone's intent. But I now have more uncertainty than before posing the question. All i can surmise is, there's more than one way to skin a cat. And it is up to me and my limited insight to choose.
 
Let it sit until spring or summer. Wet sand with 500 grit, just be mindful of edges. Wipe the car down with warm soapy water (dawn original ) is best. Re- Base with medium reducer added, let flash and Re clear with 3 coats of high solids clear. Clear is NOT formulated to go over clear. It is formulated to cross link with base coat.
What I was trying to say about clear not going over clear and sticking well, more than likely it will peel someday. But many on here are telling him to sand and repeat and he'll be fine. You could even sand it well and shoot a single stage, that would work well also.
 
What I was trying to say about clear not going over clear and sticking well, more than likely it will peel someday. But many on here are telling him to sand and repeat and he'll be fine. You could even sand it well and shoot a single stage, that would work well also.
I understand what you're saying. I also understand what the contradictory advisors say. What, i, am saying is, with so many different answers from so many different knowledgeable people, there seems to be no clear cut exact fix.
 
Yes block sand it w/ 600 or 800 Then blow off, clean w/ wax & grease remover & then wipe down w/ a tack cloth. Be careful not break through. But if you do its not the end of the world. It can be fixed. Ive been spraying for many years & I have friends that teach it. Its not much different than what I did to my dads 62 polara. Sprayed the base on one day, then the next I sprayed 3 coats of clear. Block sanded it w/ 800. Then sprayed 3 more coats of clear.
 
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Let me ask you this, are all these people commenting on here painters or have paint experience ? Idk and can't answer. I know a lot of internet response are form people who's seen it done but no real experience. I've read the comment and a lot are good. It's your money but here's what I'd do since you're kinda confused, go to a body shop that does collision and some restoration. Those men have more time to talk than just the collision shop. Say hey this is what happened and I'd like to try to repair it myself. Get their opinion. My best friend is a ppg rep in Ohio and I ran this thru him and his first response was, what idiot only sprays one coat of clear and who uses clear the "seal" something till later. He said scuff and reshoot it all, base and all. Now I've done plenty of paint work with ppg, can't speak much of other paints. The problem you have is you don't know the thickness of the clear and if you burn thru sanding you're more than likely gonna have rings or blisters if you don't shoot the base back in that area. Sometime a professional eye may miss the burn thru if it's small so an untrained eye such as yours may miss the spots. And sanding is another issue. You need to sand well, how good are you at not burning thru edges ? You have to learn somewhere I agree, we all did. But everyone can tell you want the paint to turn out nice. Just my opinion and advice, instead of taking a chance at spending money on more clear just to have an issue, save a little money and sand the whole car good, real good. And reshoot it in base clear or single stage, and know that when you're done you're not gonna have issues of rings, blisters or die back. I think you'd be further ahead than taking chances.
 
I will be the first to apologize for creating any confusion. There are different forums that have paint "experts" on them , when in reality most are not professionals in the field or with limited knowledge. The guy on YOUTUBE, the response of the guy at the paint store or even the paint rep can be wrong. Being a paint rep means you absolutely are a salesman., but doesn't "necessarily" mean you are painter. The response I posted was for the benefit of the OP & was a text book painting 101 answer. When it comes to chemicals and prep there is not "more than one way to skin a cat", ( no offense to any here). There are two kinds of adhesion, Mechanical and Chemical. All paint manufacturers have specs for every one of their products. They literally hold your hand to make you successful! It is always best to use the coarsest grit for the color you will use, i.e 500 wet for solids and maybe finer grit for certain "problematic" metallics or pearls. 1500 is reserved for a blend panel ( especially when blending metallics) because certain metallics don't like to lay out evenly. Dupont knew that and thats why they came out with 222S Adhesion promoter. They knew that clear over 1500 sanded clear could delaminate. Prep the car only before re painting( within one week). Don't be afraid to use 500-800. You CAN do this! You are de glossing the clear, that's it. You are not trying to block it. Wet sand the clear ONLY until it is dull. Keep checking your progress with a squeegee and air in good, direct lighting. If you are afraid of the edges you can use a gray scuff pad or a worn out maroon scuff pad with PanelPrep or if you are cheap like me, old school Bar Keeps Friend or Comet with abrasive. I hope I did not offend anyone here, especially paint reps.. Ive known a few good fellow painters who became reps.
 
I thank each and every person who has offered their advice on this topic. And respectfully ask that no further comments be posted. And that this discussion come to an end. I have all the info i need now to make an informed decision. Thanks again everyone.
 
How many body guys ?
U know..
if you've been married and divorced more than 3 times.... maybe it's not 'them'.
 
[QUOTE="Aarons
f up anymore than the idiots i've hired. Ha[/QUOTE]

Trying to stay out of this,
but the last guy you had, W.M. ? He restored my 58 Cadillac .
show car & award-winning vehicle.
I get bored at the shows because always just takes first place.

He restored & painted Eisenhower's personal Packard convertible.
It is a big part of the movie 'Carol' that won an Oscar.

He painted this 1968 Hurst Hemi 68 Barracuda Factory 426 Hemi super stock car. worth around $700K. Original owner & Campaigned by Jerry Dailey

he painted an Aston Martin db6 for Dayton Attorney . The DB6 is worth Over a million dollars.
And I'm NOT even talking about the Austin Martin DB5 he famously Chopped the Top on in the 80's. ( Who knew, we would cringe on that one in the future)

He was Painter & Bodyman for Dale Pulde's Miller High Life Warrior funny car
He was Gary Rupp and Pat Dakin's Top Fuel car body man and painter traveled with them.

he built a custom Mark Donahue Tribute Harley for a Movie guy , Coen Brothers right hand man.
George Clooney tried to buy it. He was turned down.
I could go on...
He painted Bob Seeger's Lear Jet.

He even painted a Racing stripe on My Helicopter !

Yea, some people don't like him.
He might not communicate well.

But he's your body guy? Makes u lucky in my book.

So... Where's your Beef?
I suggest U admitting a problem with a Doctor Jekyll Temper whenever U run out of your cronict 'Crutch' of choice.

I heard all about it.

This is not a vacuum.
Don't be surprised when one of the top bodyknockers in the business has people will come to his defense.

Jerry Daily ss-aa pit bg,ky copy.jpg IMG_20180111_180428.jpg
 
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This asshole has no idea what a good Bodyman / painter is worth.

In my aviation Biz, when guys come out of the academies and schools with their A&P license, the first thing they learn is
>>they want to work for the airlines!! <<
because the people with the little single-engine airplanes, they really can't afford those airplanes!! They whine & Bitch about every little Penny + minute that mechanics work on them. No appreciation for the value of high quality work that keeps them safe!
That's what we have here..
This idiot.. He Wants steak on a bologna budget.
 
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Resand and respray when its warmer out.. you have a good base and its sealed..to work with..
 
The last body guy, W.M. who I have defended here, (I watched him restore my 58 Caddy when it was owned by my father, known him 10 yrs and I am fishing with him in Florida now) has contacted the O.P.
and informed him that there's plenty of clear on the the body and easily enough clear-coated to sand and buff it several times.
U won't see me here again..
but I am a car guy.. I might own a Mopar (again) in the future
And I would pay double to 'W.M.' to restore it ..any day of the week!
Good Luck to you all !
I certainly get the love of Mopars they're fantastic cars with great heritage.

NOT a 'Silver Barracuda' !!
IMG_20180115_111321.jpg
 
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