Clutch Pedal Pressure

[DetSon]

I haven't been able to track anyone down in person for a real life test and like an idiot I forgot to ask anyone at the Carlisle show so I guess I have to try and describe it over text.

I have a three finger clutch of unknown make to me, but the housing itself is red and the pressure plate is from Passion Performance out of Darlington SC, which is old apparently.
Before I started "fixing" everything, the clutch was soft, I'd go as far as saying it was sloppy. Bearing's in the Z-bar were shot or missing, throwout bearing squealed, ball studs were oval etc..
So I replaced and greased everything possible and now the clutch is very hard compared to what it was. My problem is I have no frame of reference. This is the only older clutch I've ever pressed. I do know that when I press the clutch I can see the trans moving through the hole in the floor pan for the shifter. Everything's bolted up and torqued. I do not see anything binding, all springs in place. Pressure plate is facing the correct way.The only thing I think could be binding is the ball stud that mounts to the frame. When the bolt is loose the Z-bar tends to sit "naturally". When I tighten that nut down the ball stud moves the Z-bar a bit but we're not talking drastic, but then again that might be all it takes.
Is there anyway to measure that pedal pressure or does anyone want to come press my clutch pedal? haha
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[69Bee]

Check to see if the over center spring has been removed from the pedal assy under the dash. They get removed when people put a diaphragm clutch in instead of an original Borg & Beck.

 

[Cranky]

You can see the transmission is moving when you depress the clutch? That ain't right unless you have bad mounts or the trans isn't bolted up very good.

 

[DetSon]

That was my most concerning factor too. All the bolts are torqued correctly on the cross member and trans/bell-housing and I did check the mount but only with my hands.
It's not moving drastically but I would compare it to blipping the throttle and seeing the motor twist a little bit. But with the motion that's happening I don't see how that translates into a side to side motion of the trans unless the Z-bar is pushing into the bell-housing (which seems highly unlikely) or the fork is pushing into the throwout/shaft? I really need to be under the car and see what's happening again but I haven't pinned anyone down yet.

 

[coloradodave]

Check to see if the over center spring has been removed from the pedal assy under the dash. They get removed when people put a diaphragm clutch in instead of an original Borg & Beck.

X2...

 

[nm9stheham]

The Z-bar moving relative to the ball stud and vice versa should not have any effect; with the engine moving around, it will move some any way. But, if the ball stud is on the edge of the alignment range (like something is bent, or the mounts and engine and trannie do not match up), and then this moves 'out of range', it can bind. I have to wonder if the new bushing halves are wrong; or, it could be that the old ones were 'worn in' and had anough slop to avoid any binding like it sound like you have now.

Were the bushings symmetically bushing halves? I recall that they should be. Take off the rod and spring between Z-bar and clutch throwout and see if the pedel and z bar move freely with the pivots tightened in place to confirm or eliminate any binding there. Remove the over-center spring when doing this so you can get a good read on any binding.

If you are in VA now, sure, I'll press your pedals! LOL

 

[DetSon]

Ok, got it.
I checked the over-center spring and it didn't appear to quite be in the groove of the pin but I think this might be correct after looking at the diagram? It's in the same spot as the groove but not tucked tight to it or "wrapped around" it.

What I did find. I don't have an original 4-speed so my bracket holding the ball stud to the frame had been welded in god knows when. Well I finally tracked my neighbor down to press the clutch and, while the welds looked ok and there wasn't any movement from the bracket when tightening the ball-stud, when you pressed the pedal all that motion was transferred into bending that bracket off the frame, almost like a hinge. The weld towards the rear had broke away and was basically pivoting on the front weld which would have fatigued to nothing at some point. So that was binding and messing with everything. This makes sense since every time I loosened that ball stud from the bracket the motion seemed to be easier on foot pressure.
Just need some adjusting on pedal travel and it should be much better than before. That's a problem for tomorrow though, or tonight.