Converting to internal regulator alternator

[67MPRFAN]

Hello all I know this has been covered by can't find anything about it.

I'm on a 67 belevedre alternator needs changed , so I figured why not upgrade.
So is involved to upgrade to internal regulator alternator..

Intended use of car is street/strip right now factory radio works along with headlights has electric fuelpump and mad 6al box might go electric waterpump since that started leaking and add fans as well.

Thanks in advance

 

[Darter6]

Call out to Nacho-RT74 He is good with this stuff.

 

[66Satellite47]

• I got a replacement standard alt from Summit, really good output, fair price for my Satellite. Most Mopar alts were OK, but I did learn how to rebuild them when mine failed. Mostly my failures were related to the electronic voltage regulator and not being well grounded.

 

[67MPRFAN]

• I got a replacement standard alt from Summit, really good output, fair price for my Satellite. Most Mopar alts were OK, but I did learn how to rebuild them when mine failed. Mostly my failures were related to the electronic voltage regulator and not being well grounded.

Mine still works but sounds like a bearing is about to go out. So since the waterpump started leaking figured why not replace them both and upgrade at the same time

 

[RJRENTON]

Call out to Nacho-RT74 He is good with this stuff.

Good 'ole Nacho has no real clue only suppositions, hearsay, guesses, and pre-digested rhetoric but it depends on only which "stuff" you are referring to and the definition of "good".......
BOB RENTON

 

[MoparLeo]

"Upgrade?"

 

[67MPRFAN]

"Upgrade?"

Yes from a factory 45/50 amp that's on my 67 Plymouth, looking at a 70 amp denso

 

[MoparLeo]

So a complete change of alternator type, not just an amp change.

 

[67MPRFAN]

Yes
I believe the denso is lighter and thinking about weight savings as my car is street strip

 

[matthon]

I did this a while back, iirc denso/4Runner alternator from summit, alternator bracket kit and pigtail from ARE.
Also iirc ARE provides instructions.
I rewired my car as well, new wiring, no ammeter, new fusebox, ground hub, etc.

http://arengineering.com/home-page/alternator-kits/

 

[66chargerpat]

The Denso also charges more at idle

 

[67MPRFAN]

Yes I have those instructions but alitte confused about which wire I could use for sense and 12v switched. Or do I need to forget about the wires I posted and run new ones

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Despiting some friendly comments... ( and helpfull for the thread! )

12 volts switched source is the blue wire attached to the old mech regulator. That comes from Ign1 circuit. The green wire won't be used anymore... except if you want to splice them together to reach the alt instead keep a blue wire from end to end to reach the alt

I'm not really sure about what exactly that alt is requesting to make it work. Usually the switched source uses to be also the sensing wire. But there are several variations for that setup, like using a diff sensing wire from the IGN signal. The logic says for the sensing wire get it close to the batt, but if wiring is not in good conditions the sensing wire location could be tricky and get less or more voltage than the range needed for a safe alt sourcing.

Then also, as I told you on the PM, are you planning to keep amm? No need to remove it or bypass it with a straight wire between alt and batt/starter relay stud. Just take care of bulkhead conditions, ammeter conditions and couple of wire path upgrades between amm and the rest of charging system. AND SOURCE EVERY NEW ACC ADDED FROM GHE RIGHT POWER BUSS/SPOT/JUNCTION. With ammeters is simply WRONG source anything from batt!

BTW, if you are planing on use electric water pump and fans, I don't think a 70 amps alts will be enough. I'd say something more into 90-110 range could meet better the load needs to keep safer the charge and batt system.

 

[RJRENTON]

The preceding information has been reiterated for the ~200+ times....somewhat Like a cow chewing its cud...why the OP cannot just search for the subject as the answeres are profound in quantity .... I guess its its just easier to keep asking the question over and over adinfinitum, hoping for different answeres.....??
BOB RENTON

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Don't worry, maybe will reach ~million more.

........


Forgot to say, the need for more amp output alt is mostly to guarantee the minimun load required by the car at lowers RPMs without batt assistance. This will keep safer the ammeter and wiring. The alt won't reach its max output ever as far is not requested. Amperage is not pushed in by the power source(s) but sucked by the accesories, and the accesories will suck the same average power no matter where it comes, from alt or batt or both together... if you try to keep the load source from the alt side, the ammeter won't sense that load. No load going thought the ammeter, no heat or damage there.

And about the sensing wire, if there is not nice power paths along the charging system up to the point you splice the sensing wire, the voltage can suffer some decays and the alt/reg can try to compensate that in the wrong based on an incorrect reading

 

[JG71B]

The preceding information has been reiterated for the ~200+ times....somewhat Like a cow chewing its cud...why the OP cannot just search for the subject as the answeres are profound in quantity .... I guess its its just easier to keep asking the question over and over adinfinitum, hoping for different answeres.....??
BOB RENTON

I do it myself at times. The search CAN just simply suck at times and like you said in different wording, there is a lot to sift through. I mainly do it just to simply converse with people in the hobby. Not much different than bullshitting with a neighbor in the garage....Thats the whole point of the website IMHO. Remember, nobody HAS to reply! Especially, if it doesn't contribute or add anything positive. Some people I guess, just feel compelled they need to add their opinion, as I just did. Don't like what is on?? Change the channel....very simple.

 

[JG71B]

I tried one of these successfully thus far. A few shims, inch or two shorter belt and a metric bolt and it's on. Its for a 90's 4Runner. 70amp and $80 on ebay but the spec sheet is showing just under 40amps at idle. I may try a 120 amp but trying to get info on the spec sheet from the seller first for the amp output at idle (both internally reg). If I can get 50ish at idle I'll be happy as I have no real accessories other than heater and stereo with a small amplifier but may add things in the future. I do have my ammeter bypassed and a relay set up for the head lamps is in the near future also. You will need to get a 3 wire plug for this alt also. No splicing just changing a couple ends to fit into it at most IIRC. It's a bit smaller and different looking but looks clean and is roomy. I like it so far. Comes with the pulley you see. I've added another shim or two to make it line up perfectly and it's pretty solid.

 

[JG71B]

Lamp isn't used, sense (trigger, from 12v source), switched ign. source and then your usual output from alt.

 

[Shorthorse]

Good 'ole Nacho has no real clue only suppositions, hearsay, guesses, and pre-digested rhetoric but it depends on only which "stuff" you are referring to and the definition of "good".......
BOB RENTON

As Mom would say, "If you can't say anything nice, do say anything at all". You could try to help the OP with his question.