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cooling need more cooling.

ddpsnake

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I have a rebuilt 360 with about 500 miles on her.9-1 30 over speed pro pistons, 3 row rad with shroud, 170 stat, a/c water pump, my car is no longer an a/c car.pull the cap good flow at idle.7 blade clutch fan.my problem is when we are cruising around the temp goes to half way on my factory gauge, but if i get stuck in traffic it keeps climbing very close to hot on my gauge .last year with the old stock 318 never went half way.WHAT TO DO,4 row rad?
 
First, make SURE what your temperature is. I would suggest adding an aftermarket, mechanical temperature gauge.

Since it gets hot at idle/slow speed, that indicates and air flow problem.

Lastly, you didn't by any chance forget to cut your antifreeze concentrate in half with water to make 50/50 did you? A hydrometer (?) with the floating balls or floating lever will help you double check.
 
ok good start i added a jug of antifreeze then water, looks like its time to get a mechanical gauge,would a 12 inch pusher electric fan help.thanks bro for your help.
 
Did you add the shroud?
Your fan may be too far into it.
Can you post pictures?
 
Did you add the shroud?
Your fan may be too far into it.
Can you post pictures?
the shroud was always there, all is stock, i put a tissue on the front of the rad its pulling lots of air, as for pics my pc is a piece of **** right now sorry.
 
I assume the clutch is good?
A new motor will put out more heat.
Timing and mixture can affect how hot it runs quite a bit as well.
Even oil viscocity and type (thinner oil) can help.
I wouldn't get too worried about it right away, check/work on these things and run it more.
 
I assume the clutch is good?
A new motor will put out more heat.
Timing and mixture can affect how hot it runs quite a bit as well.
Even oil viscocity and type (thinner oil) can help.
I wouldn't get too worried about it right away, check/work on these things and run it more.
just measured from the flat part of fan blade to rad is 2 inches how do i check the clutch ?
 
hear a old pic just the same as now .

S6990016.JPG
 
The fact that it stays cool while cruising tells you the fan isn't moving enough air although other things like your tune could be contributing to it. This also tells you that you don't need a bigger radiator just more air.

I had the same problem, I was running a clutch fan with a shroud and it would slowly climb in stop and go traffic. Knowing all else was good I switched over to dual electric fans (pullers).. no more problems. I'd at least play with it until the motor is fully broke in to see if it cools down a bit.

Pushers are not a good option, even on electric fans you need a good shroud.. with a pusher they typically don't have shrouds because they would block airflow while cruising. The ones I bought came in a shroud and have rubber flaps that allow more air to pass through while cruising.
 
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would a 12 inch pusher electric fan help
Not necessary. Your factory gauge is the first thing to doubt. Once you get a good mech. gauge, you can now start ruling other things out. While you are at it add a oil pressure gauge.
 
just measured from the flat part of fan blade to rad is 2 inches how do i check the clutch ?
With the clutch hot. Shut off the motor and try spinning the fan by hand.
It should have some resistance and maybe go 1-2 rotations if it goes like 4 or 5 then I would say the clutch is no good.
 
With the clutch hot. Shut off the motor and try spinning the fan by hand.
It should have some resistance and maybe go 1-2 rotations if it goes like 4 or 5 then I would say the clutch is no good.
Will try that, rain today bummer
 
Not necessary. Your factory gauge is the first thing to doubt. Once you get a good mech. gauge, you can now start ruling other things out. While you are at it add a oil pressure gauge.
i do have a mech gague now, the oem oil gague took a dump, maybe the same has happened too lets hope .
 
I assume the clutch is good?
A new motor will put out more heat.
Timing and mixture can affect how hot it runs quite a bit as well.
Even oil viscocity and type (thinner oil) can help.
I wouldn't get too worried about it right away, check/work on these things and run it more.
as for timing i like to advance it till its hard to start then i just back it off a few degrees,this 360 pulls hard right off the line.
 
As above, you have to know "actual" temp 1st. The C - H gauge shows a very wide operating range. A 170 stat starts to open at 170 and generally fully open at 185, 15° above stated opening temp. At idle, in heat 122°, 496" engine w a/c on, I'm at 220ish and my guage is still in operating range. Highway I'm around 186 w a 180 stat. You're probably normal, "may" need a new fan clutch, or may need to adjust timing/AFR. Start there before throwing money at it. And yes, a new engine runs hotter for a while.
20210615_160930.jpg
20210615_160941.jpg
 
well my needle was just a little further close to the next line, your at 220 so maybe 225 is what mine was, once it reach that i went home.
 
well my needle was just a little further close to the next line, your at 220 so maybe 225 is what mine was, once it reach that i went home.
For $15 go to Harbor Freight n get a IR temp gun. Then when your engine gets hot, get a reading at the temp sending unit. Guages will read different. Don't guess.
 
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