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Could someone help me understand the difference between upgrading your points to an electronic ignition compared to installing a coil/ignition box

Outboards are capacitive discharge where most automotive are inductive both are electronic but apples and oranges.
 
Please explain the source of the engine fire.
He was on a road trip and the shop that tried to replace his distributor after the vehicle got towed off the highway disturbed the fuel line in the process and it went un-noticed until he was on the highway a day and a half later and flames were coming out from under the hood.

The orange box wires went behind the alternator right next to the fuel line (383) then over the lower right side of the engine.

The distributor had to be replaced because the counterweight springs failed and jammed everything up under the pick-up. Pieces were floating around everywhere under the distributor cap. The bearings were pretty tired as well.
 
He was on a road trip and the shop that tried to replace his distributor after the vehicle got towed off the highway disturbed the fuel line in the process and it went un-noticed until he was on the highway a day and a half later and flames were coming out from under the hood.

The orange box wires went behind the alternator right next to the fuel line (383) then over the lower right side of the engine.

The distributor had to be replaced because the counterweight springs failed and jammed everything up under the pick-up. Pieces were floating around everywhere under the distributor cap. The bearings were pretty tired as well.
Okay but I don't see the electronic ignition as the cause which seemed to be your indication earlier.
 
The electronic ignition was a direct cause of the failure because EVERYONE believes that they are indestructible. Had these owners performed routine maintenance on them, neither would have had catastrophic failures on the highway.

I've never had a problem with a Kettering distributor that couldn't be remedied on the shoulder and got me on my way.

My 5 Volares and two C-bodies, on the other hand, were always breaking down and I always had to carry spare parts in the back of the wagons or in the trunks so that they could be repaired.

I changed my caps and rotors regularly and always checked the counterweights and bearing slop just like I do with my Kettering distributors.

Both of those failures were due to the owners having believed the fallacy that electronic ignitions are indestructible and when you get some tow truck jockey trying to fix the problem(s), you're bound to be in for a costly bottom line.

Hell, my '72 Dart has a '79 engine in it but I retrofitted the '72 points distributor into it in the early eighties when I installed the newer engine.

My daughter is still driving the car to this day.

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Oh crap. Thanks for info. Here I figured he got himself thrown out of the site somehow. He was entertaining. If it's the Bob I'm thinking of. I'll actually miss him
 
No one said elec ign is indestructible. It is man made, so it can fail.........
Points ign is not the equal of elec ign. The points rubbing block wears, retarding the ign causing loss of mileage & power. That does not happen with elec ign. For a general purpose car that might get raced occasionally, the GM HEI set up with 0.060" plug gaps is unbeatable.
 
I think the real problem, at least for some makes, isn’t so much points vs electronic but that modern replacement points aren’t very good compared to the original. This is more from reading and seeing videos, if I’m wrong let me know.
 
@tonyp25
Points ignition works fine but is a little more maintence. A quality set of points will last a few to many years depending on how much you drive your old car. Replacement parts can be poor quality though, especially condensors, ballast resistors and possibly coils.

Mopar Electronic Ignition isn't a bad system but those components don't last forever and the quality of those replacement parts is pretty shaky as well. Control units are the worst nowdays.
A Pertronix conversion is a good conversion alternative. The first level kit is a good points and condenser eliminator. Use their recommended coil and follow the directions as to ballast use or not.

Leave the MSD units for the race cars. It's an un necessary overkill unless you have a real hot rod. Not a bad idea to have an extra unit on hand because the control boxes can and will fail.
The quality of replacement parts nowdays for points or Mopar electronic ignition is a crap shoot. You are better off stocking up with parts frim Halifaxhops. He sells all the good old stock parts.
 
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