Here's my CVF Wraptor(s), Cold Case radiator(s), Cold Case shroud and integrated dual fans, low profile flex fan, aftermarket 18" electric fans, and SPAL saga, in as brief a summary as possible.
FIRST, to answer the OP's question:
Having a fitment issue with cold case and CVF racing SERP set up. What had anyone done to make it work?
The Cold Case dual electric fans and shroud assembly will NOT fit the available space on my Roadrunner.
What has worked the best for me, for both available space and cooling, on my 70 440 6bbl Roadrunner, is a low profile 18" diameter flex fan and spacer, I'm about to put the factory fan shroud back on to see if that improves cooling while stationary/crawling through traffic, and 2x appx 10" SPAL pusher fans. GET
SPAL FANS, don't bother with ANY other brand, I know I NEVER will use any electric fan but SPAL, after my experiences.
My dual SPAL fans:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30100320#overview
The space available between the tensioning arm on the CVF Wraptor is the shortest distance between the Wraptor and my radiator. Next closest is probably the AC pulley clutch cover, but the tensioning arm is significantly closer to the radiator than anything else on the front of my 440.
IF I could fit a mechanical fan with larger blades, I would, but the distance between the back (Wraptor/engine side) edge of the fan blades and the tensioning arm is minimal, intentionally, to make the most space possible between the front of the fan and the back of the radiator.
My DERALE flex fan:
Link:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/19118/10002/-1
Foolishly, I sold my factory 26" radiator's fan shroud, thinking the 18" electric fan that my vendor swore was the finest and he NEVER had ANY problems with was going to be all I needed. Yeah, it worked great, every time, for about an hour or so until the electric motor burned up, THREE TIMES = Cooling Components brand, on the GTO and the Roadrunner, was a disaster wrapped in a nightmare, while being machine gunned running through a minefield. Avoid like STDs!
My
SPAL fans, using ALL of the exact same breakers, relays, wiring, etc work GREAT, and I have them set to turn off above 50 miles per hour because they have no purpose at that speed. When I had my AC system topped off with refrigerant, hood open (inefficient air flow) on a warm 85 degree blue sky day, the SPAL/Derale combo worked fine, car stationary, AC on the whole time. Get dual fan relays of appropriate amperage and a fan controller!! I use my Dakota Digital PAC-2800BT electronic fan control module to control the fans on both cars. Check with tech support for your electric fan sales person and see what they recommend.
26" radiator factory fan shroud for my Roadrunner, eyeballing it for fitment.
It looks good enough to try as is, BUT I
may trim the fan side of the opening a teeny bit, only if necessary to improve cooling by exposing some of the fan blades.
More pix:
I'm having a weird problem with my Dakota Digital water temp gauge spiking to impossible hot temps, but I don't think it has anything to do with the radiator, pump, etc. I believe it's an air pocket or a defective sender or probe, or wiring fault.
NOTE: The following is about the GTO, and it may be helpful, but you can skip it if you've read what you wanted to know.
I already ruined one CC radiator for the GTO by finding out that 1/2" clearance is NOT enough for the Pontiac factory clutch on the clutch fan to clear, once hot, but it made a beautiful swirl circle in my brand new CC radiator, and had a lovely bright green fountain effect too.
I will NEVER rely solely on an electric fan for primary cooling, because I made that mistake, 3 times on my Roadrunner, once on the GTO.
I'm going to preface the following by saying that I am as sure as I can be that
the reason why the GTO is running at and occasionally hotter than 200 degrees is because the Pontiac specific divider plate in the water pump is not within the 1/10th inch gap to the back of the impeller, and I am convinced enough that I am going to have to take EVERYTHING off the front of the engine (including the aluminum bracket for the Wraptor) to access the water pump, remove the front half of the water pump, and the divider plate, and "mold" (beat, heat, pound, tap, curse, cajole) that plate to the required 1/10th inch of the impeller, which is the only way to make the water pump function efficiently. If the measurement is w/in 1/10th inch before I do anything, I'm going to be pissed, and the only remaining culprit for the high temperature operation is the Cold Case radiator, and I don't believe that. Right now it's running the factory radiator and it's still just barely able to keep the coolant temperature at an acceptable range until I can get to that water pump divider plate.
I tried the Cold Case dual electric fans and shroud assembly on the GTO with the Cold Case radiator. It overheated under all circumstances. I'm sending it back, eventually. IF I find the divider plate is the reason why it's running hot, the Cold Case fans and shroud may have worked, but with all that I have learned, if it's not SPAL, I'm NOT INTERESTED!