Dashquestions

[Basoline]

So i'm converting the voltage regulator in my dash into a modern one...It took me ages to remove the dashculster and unfortunately, it didn't work out the way I hoped. The connector from the heater was broken:

Anyone has a clue where I can get these?

Then, another question. On the back of the light-switch, there's a small button with a spring. What is it for?

I removed these guys and tomorrow or so i'm starting soldering the electic-parts. Let's pray it all works out....

 

[Histoy]

Try NAPA for the heater vacuum switch. The small button with the spring releases the handle for the headlight switch.

 

[Detroit Iron]

Napa won't have the A/C vacuum controller. I got a replacement here: http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/ Slam dunk. I'm sure they will want the part number from the old one.

The button on the light switch is to release the knob.

 

[markmopar]

Anthony Powell can rebuild it for you:

http://www.dodgecoronet.com/forum/showthread.php?p=77246#post77246

"Below is a canned letter that I send to everyone showing my service and what
the charges are. So far I have been able to get the switches back in the mail
the day after I receive them. If your car is and air car be sure to check your
temp selector switch located on the right side o the plenum (picture #3). The
average cost to rebuild the switch is usually about 45.00 plus 5.00 for
shipping. It just depends on how much work needs to be done. If your buttons
are a little hard to push it usually needs at least 2 of the wafer boards. If
your really lucky you can get off with just the vacuum port repair.

I would need you to send me your switch or switches. There is some machine
work that I have to do no the switch. I can fix several problems that happen to
most of these switches. The cost just depends on what is broken on your switch.
I can fix AC/Heat or Heat only switches. I have rebuilt switches for people all
over the United States. Rick Eburg did an article on my repairs in the March
2006 edition of Mopar Action.
Picture #1 is a before and after shot of the vacuum control

It will work on any push button mopar switch from 1959 to 1988.

Picture #2 is a before and after shot of the push button repair Picture


#3 is a before and after shot of the Temperature selector switch for 62-65 b body air conditioned car

Picture #4 is a before and after shot of the max cool vacuum switch that piggy
backs on the fan switch on the 62-65 B body air car

Picture #5 is a before and after shot of the sliding wafer boards that go inside
the switch.
I have been using a repaired switch in my car for over two years now and it
works great. The port and button repair is made out of black or white delrin
material. It is super tough. The other two switches are made of alum. They
will all outlast the cars they are going in. The wafer boards are made out of a
super tough plastic shim stock. The vacuum port repair is 35.00, button repair
5.00 each,and wafer boards are 5.00 each. The temp selector switch is 40.00 as
is the piggy back max cool switch. Just send a money order for the services
that you think you need. I won't know if you have any bad boards in the switch
until I open it up. If there are bad boards you can send payment for them when
you get your switch back. I can be reached at [email protected] or
(903)-893-5674. I thank you very much for this chance to show my product.
P.S. Please send switches only. No metal parts.Anthony Powell1305 North Grant Dr.Sherman, Tx.75092Here is a link to some pictures of my 65 Coronethttp://www.PictureTrail.com/gid5749122Here is the link to the pictures of the switches<a href="http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/...14&uid=2774278" target="_blank"><img src="http://pic16.picturetrail.com/VOL651...-202933225.jpg" border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.picturetrail.com" /></a>
"

 

[markmopar]

From the 62-65 site tech area:

"NAPA sells a five button heater control vacuum switch that can be modified to work on 1962 to 1965 Mopars. The NAPA-Echlin part number is HC205. UPDATE December 25, 2006: Mark from NAPA writes: It appears that there are quite a few of these switches left, though they have been dropped from the computer prior to 1971 or 1972. If you do want one or more, you’ll have to ask for it by the number. It will have to be shipped in from Virginia, so would take a few days to get there. Not that our cars are usually used as daily transportation, anyway. I’m a fan who doesn’t want these parts destroyed when the company gets tired of warehousing them. As far as I know, this isn’t imminent. But don’t wait too long, just in case! UPDATE July 2008: the switches are still available through NAPA as of this time! "

 

[Basoline]

I contacted Anthony and he can send me a replacement for $85 bucks without shipping...since I'm in Europe, that's going to be quite expensive. Maybe I'll just have to do this because there's no NAPA where I live...damn...

 

[markmopar]

Here's another idea I saw on the 62-65 tech page:

"I've fixed a couple of heater control switches by finding just the right size brass tubing to fit inside the nipples and cutting it just long enough to match the length from flush inside the switch housing to the tip of the nipple. The brass tubing is available at some hardware stores and most good hobby shops. Cut the piece to length, coat outside of brass tube with JB Weld, insert in porthole on switch body and slide broken plastic nipple back in place over the tubing and wipe off any excess on nipple or smooth surface of inside switch housing and make sure the tube is clear. Let set overnight, put it back together. These switch assemblies are held together by 1/8 inch plastic rivets. I cut the heads off with an Exacto knife then drill them out and tap holes and replace with miniature allen head screws from a hobby shop. Then you have a serviceable switch that can be easily disassembled."

 

[Basoline]

Well...I'm stubborn and tried to glue the pins to the heater control unit. It works out fine. It looks like there's one pin out of line (back-row, the most right) and ...that's correct. haha. Most important thing is that everything is back in it's place again and is working:

 

[Patrick]

Well...I'm stubborn and tried to glue the pins to the heater control unit. It works out fine. It looks like there's one pin out of line (back-row, the most right) and ...that's correct. haha. Most important thing is that everything is back in it's place again and is working:

I for one am glad you did that for yourself, that the satisfaction part of this hobby.