• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Detonation: Timing Plugs Compression Heads Etc

You want to cut the threaded portion off at the base. Of course, that means a new plug, or plugs...

this isn't mine, just a pic I grabbed off the 'net but shows what I mean.
View attachment 987408
The dark ring at the very bottom of the porcelain, indicates WOT. These in the picture look to be too wide = rich, but gives you an idea.

And, not really relevant to your issue, but yours look rich at idle and close to being too hot..if you can re-curve the distributor to get 20 at idle with the same 32 total, you may get some improved response..just for future thought.
You want to cut the threaded portion off at the base. Of course, that means a new plug, or plugs...

this isn't mine, just a pic I grabbed off the 'net but shows what I mean.
View attachment 987408
The dark ring at the very bottom of the porcelain, indicates WOT. These in the picture look to be too wide = rich, but gives you an idea.

And, not really relevant to your issue, but yours look rich at idle and close to being too hot..if you can re-curve the distributor to get 20 at idle with the same 32 total, you may get some improved response..just for future thought.
Looks like mine is way too rich. So if it’s leaned out more it won’t help my issue. Although at first when these were installed my tune was crap for a few hundred miles and my initial advance was set at 10-12. Later with same plugs it got the advance dialed in and no more rich fuel smell before these were swapped for the other plugs trying to help with my detonation issue.

By the way these are NGK BPR6ES. Now in the car are one level colder NGK’s.

Compression check hopefully in the next month.

E2F3BDA4-9D4D-4F95-8B2C-1383D916B7EE.jpeg
 
Looks like mine is way too rich. So if it’s leaned out more it won’t help my issue. Although at first when these were installed my tune was crap for a few hundred miles and my initial advance was set at 10-12. Later with same plugs it got the advance dialed in and no more rich fuel smell before these were swapped for the other plugs trying to help with my detonation issue.

By the way these are NGK BPR6ES. Now in the car are one level colder NGK’s.

Compression check hopefully in the next month.

View attachment 990964
Yep you got some work to do! Run some new plugs for a bit and then do the same check. FWIW I usually buy an extra plug or two when I get new ones since they're still cheap. I do have an A/F meter as well but there's no substitute for a good plug read..they never lie!
 
Yep you got some work to do! Run some new plugs for a bit and then do the same check. FWIW I usually buy an extra plug or two when I get new ones since they're still cheap. I do have an A/F meter as well but there's no substitute for a good plug read..they never lie!
If I have a bad tune and run the car like I did for a while and then tune it nice and run it some more, will the plug read change as the soot burns away with the new tune or will the initial bad tune leave my plugs looking like above even if it gets dialed in over time?
 
I am getting some knock/detonation at WOT. Went one colder plug down didn't help. I am trying various timing and plug combinations to see if I can get it to run well without detonating.


Set up:
Car: 1970 Sat with a A904 and 271 rear
Engine: 1973 340 with an unknown aggressive cam and unknown compression with stock steel heads.
Set up: Have it a running a little rich right now and will get an actual A/F reading later in the week.
Variables and Combinations:
Fresh clean gas
Current set up is base timing 19 with a mechanical advance of limit of 14 via a new bushing. Total timing 33. All in at 2500 or so.

Went from 66 to 65 Autolite's. Still detonates.

In the next day or so when I get time to play with the car again I will try lowering the timing to 17/31 to see if it goes away. Not sure I want to retard it much more than that.

Looking for some reasonable suggestions. Slapping on the new Trickflow's is not reasonable unless you want to purchase them for me :) Lowering compression via thicker gaskets etc is what I am looking for input wise.
Convert it to E85. $2 a gallon at the pump and is 110+ octane. Octane is resistance to detonation.
 
Convert it to E85. $2 a gallon at the pump and is 110+ octane. Octane is resistance to detonation.
I know nothing about E85. Can a carburetor set up be easily modified for this?
 
I know nothing about E85. Can a carburetor set up be easily modified for this?
Yes. Buy a kit from quickfuel for $300 to convert a Holley. Or you can just buy a E85 carb. E85 is 85% alcohol so the jets need to be bigger and the gasket material needs to hold up in the carb. E85 conversion kits come with alcohol gaskets and special E85 metering blocks. You also need metal fuel filter and alcohol compatible fuel lines. HotRod has good articles about this online.
 
Yes. Buy a kit from quickfuel for $300 to convert a Holley. Or you can just buy a E85 carb. E85 is 85% alcohol so the jets need to be bigger and the gasket material needs to hold up in the carb. E85 conversion kits come with alcohol gaskets and special E85 metering blocks. You also need metal fuel filter and alcohol compatible fuel lines. HotRod has good articles about this online.
Is E85 a high ethanol mix?
 
Is E85 a high ethanol mix?
85% ethonol.
Ethonol is just corn alcohol.
Ethonol was just branded as scary because it corrodes stuff and eats gaskets but it's not a problem if you use special E85 or alcohol fuel lines/filters/carb gaskets.
 
85% ethonol.
Ethonol is just corn alcohol.
Ethonol was just branded as scary because it corrodes stuff and eats gaskets but it's not a problem if you use special E85 or alcohol fuel lines/filters/carb gaskets.
110 octane sounds delicious. I will look into this thanks!
 
Not that it may matter, but E85 is going to cut your MPG down by 1/3rd or more.
I can't imagine why a 73 340 would have detonation problems, they certainly aren't high compression engines.
 
85% ethonol.
Ethonol...corrodes stuff and eats gaskets but it's not a problem if you use special E85 or alcohol fuel lines/filters/carb gaskets.
EVERYTHING that E85 touches is going to have to be ethanol compatible, and that still doesn't keep it from absorbing water, condensation, atmospheric, any form, like a sponge.
I'm concerned there's a real serious culprit behind detonation in a 73 340 that may go unresolved if the E85 stops the pinging.
 
Not that it may matter, but E85 is going to cut your MPG down by 1/3rd or more.
I can't imagine why a 73 340 would have detonation problems, they certainly aren't high compression engines.
Mine is running 12:1 TRWs and the cam has a long duration. I bought it like this and was trying to use it without a complete rebuild.
 
EVERYTHING that E85 touches is going to have to be ethanol compatible, and that still doesn't keep it from absorbing water, condensation, atmospheric, any form, like a sponge.
I'm concerned there's a real serious culprit behind detonation in a 73 340 that may go unresolved if the E85 stops the pinging.
Interesting your saying alcohol is hydroscopic?
 
I’ll answer the question alcohol is hydroscopic.
 
Hydrogen bonding causes pure ethanol to be hygroscopic to the extent that it readily absorbs water from the air.
 
I'm saying when E15 up to E85 is used as a fuel, any form of water that comes into contact with it gets absorbed and mixed in.
Not a huge problem our typical humidity is 10% it rains 10 times a year here lol
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top