Disc brake conversion

[Eric F]

My 70 Road Runner I’m doing a front disc brake swap. I found a pair of knuckles and caliper brackets and slides. Seller states to use 73-76 A body rotors or 73-74 E body rotors. 73-76 A body Calipers . Use the E body/ A body inner wheel bearings.
Or should I just by a complete kit?
That is my dilemma?
Thanks

 

[Billccm]

I'd recommend Dr Diff.

 

[WileERobby]

Whatever you do, the later 70's Mopar conversion is fine. If you've already gone that route, go ahead.

 

[Kern Dog]

You can sometimes piece together a system that works and save a few bucks.
The calipers can be hard to get locally. Rock Auto is an option.
My local NAPA stores won't even order the calipers. Maybe Auto Zone or O'Reilly will? I haven't checked. The wheel bearings and seals are usually available locally.
Dr Diff is a good vendor too.

 

[493 Mike]

I did a swap back in 1981/2 from a 1972 Charger on my 1966 Belvedere. I think it worked out fine (it was a while ago). Nut and bolt operation.
Mike

 

[59pwrwgn]

Depends. I pieced mine together cheap. Sounds like you would be getting spindles with caliper brackets for the slider calipers and the 11 inch rotors. The 11.75 inch rotors backets are ddifferent. Check doctor diff and rock auto for pricing. Look up mopar action "disco tech" article for info on this.

 

[snakeoil24]

A body calipers and rotors from rock auto works very well and are inexpensive. Also you can buy a booster and pedal assembly from pirate jack for a very good price.

 

[70ChargerRT]

My 70 Road Runner I’m doing a front disc brake swap. I found a pair of knuckles and caliper brackets and slides. Seller states to use 73-76 A body rotors or 73-74 E body rotors. 73-76 A body Calipers . Use the E body/ A body inner wheel bearings.
Or should I just by a complete kit?
That is my dilemma?
Thanks

It’s just according what your end goal is? Wanting to go cheap? Do you or do you not have a preference of a name brand brake set up? All sorts of different companies to deal with. Like I said it’s just according which route you want to take with your brakes.

 

[ckessel]

Maybe this will help you Eric. BTW, are you going to the MB show this weekend?
Disc-O-Tech

 

[Eric F]

Maybe this will help you Eric. BTW, are you going to the MB show this weekend?
Disc-O-Tech

I may walk through Morro Bay show. I’m not showing

 

[BearDodge67]

When I did my conversion 9yrs ago on my 66/7 here were the part numbers I used.. May not be available stil, but check various part stores/rock auto to see.

Calipers: Raybestos FRC2067 (left) and Raybestos FRC2068 (right) (if you or someone moved the calipers to the rear to allow for a sway bar, then swap the numbers accordingly)
Rotors: 14115
Bearings: Inner: BCA A17 Outer: BCA A2 Seal: 5121

Master Cylinder: 11627 (This is a manual brake MC for a police car. It has the same spec's as the Mopar Performance MC, but recommend going with smaller bore MC for lighter pedal efford).

Brake Pads: MKD84 (OEM on the police cars.. only difference between this and regular pad is it's semi-metallic.
Proportioning valve: Used a Wilwood adjustable. They weren't re-popping the OEM style valves back then.

 

[Eric F]

I’d like to thank everyone for there responses.
It’s less expensive to buy a complete kit than it is to piece on together.

 

[snakeoil24]

Go to pirate jack for the kit they apparently make for everyone. Parent company is MBM brakes

 

[snakeoil24]

Pirate jack is $ 615.00 for booster, rotors, calipers, bearings, hoses and divider valve with master cylinder and dust shields and spindles

 

[Plumber452]

Hello All,

I'm doing a Disc Brake conversion on my 1964 Plymouth Fury Station Wagon. Just got off the phone with Pirate Jack and the guy says their 1962-1964 B Body kit won' work on my car. He says it's a C Body, which from my understanding it's not. I checked a CCP kit and they're currently 40-45 days out. I've dug into Dr. Diff and they look to be $150.00 more than Pirate Jack and $250.00 more than CCP and that doesn't include a brake booster. Any thoughts?

 

[Ron H]

I had a hassle with a kit that was for '65 - (have a '63) seem to recall these era cars, up to '65, had a bell-crank yet? Ended up making it work after more sweat and expletives.

 

[Billccm]

Dr Diff is a great resource. I would only consider his conversion kits.

 

[Plumber452]

I had a hassle with a kit that was for '65 - (have a '63) seem to recall these era cars, up to '65, had a bell-crank yet? Ended up making it work after more sweat and expletives.

Thanks for the input. Well the plot thickens. After posting my original question I reached out to Mancinni Racing who is a vendor for MBM brakes. Found the exact same part number as Pirate Jack, called them and they said the kit would fit!!!!! But they are about $250.00 more than Pirate Jack. I've reached out to Dr. Diff. I don't understand on their website about upper ball joint adapters.

What is the bell crank you're referencing? If it's the kickdown I've gone to a cable.

 

[Ron H]

What is the bell crank

It's linkage that changes the direction of force such as pushing action generating a pulling reaction. Memory is foggy, I think Chrysler had them on power brake pedal assemblies up until the mid-60's - I believe my '63 had this and became an issue as I converted from manual to power brakes. Pedal 'ratios' are different btw manual and power; there were two holes in the pedal arm. Top was for manual and lower one for power with a crank setup. Ended up converting the brakes to retain the top position, longer story on this. Anyway, this may have nothing to do with your situation, especially if your car already has power. Just mentioning it. For more info you can do a search on this site for 'Brake pedal bell crank' there are several threads.

 

[Plumber452]

It's linkage that changes the direction of force such as pushing action generating a pulling reaction. Memory is foggy, I think Chrysler had them on power brake pedal assemblies up until the mid-60's - I believe my '63 had this and became an issue as I converted from manual to power brakes. Pedal 'ratios' are different btw manual and power; there were two holes in the pedal arm. Top was for manual and lower one for power with a crank setup. Ended up converting the brakes to retain the top position, longer story on this. Anyway, this may have nothing to do with your situation, especially if your car already has power. Just mentioning it. For more info you can do a search on this site for 'Brake pedal bell crank' there are several threads.

Again, Thanks. My car is a manual brake car. Maybe the picture of the kit, "DBK6272-MP-202", I'm looking at has two "Bars" that I don't recognize. This is the MBM kit. Perhaps those bars give you the option as to if your car is a manual or a power? I'm not following you when you say you ended up converting the brakes to retain the top position. I'll have to look at the threads you mentioned. Here's the car: