Distributor ID

[northeastmoparnet]

Aluminum tag says 3690431. It is purple. Above the part number 38 9....
Does anyone have a date or year application for this distributor. I cannot find it in my book?

 

[kiwigtx]

calling @HALIFAXHOPS

 

[moparwacko]

Isn't that the standard MP electronic dizzy?
Sold in about a million B engine conversion kits.....

 

[northeastmoparnet]

Isn't that the standard MP electronic dizzy?
Sold in about a million B engine conversion kits.....

Don't know. It is what I have. I have been having issues where my 383 fires up on the first revolution, runs for several minutes and then the engine just shuts off like flipping a switch? I am looking into maybe a bad distributor?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I would look into coil and or ballast resistor.

 

[moparwacko]

Could be lots of electrical gremlins, but
BeepBeepRR is correct about coil. "Usually" a bad resistor will fire on cranking then quit on run.
More than likely a bad ECU, tell me it's orange.....
There are quite a few threads here on troubleshooting Chrysler's system, and some real experts.
What are we diagnosing?
Pics will help.

 

[Aeronet]

If moparwacko thinks it's the ecu then I'd look at the ecu. Seems like the coil would take longer to heat up and then quit. Could be fuel. If the screen in the tank is clogged it could run for a bit and then quit (happened to me).
If you have a multi-meter you can rule out some of the obvious.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Isn't that the standard MP electronic dizzy?
Sold in about a million B engine conversion kits.....

Yup.

Don't know. It is what I have. I have been having issues where my 383 fires up on the first revolution, runs for several minutes and then the engine just shuts off like flipping a switch? I am looking into maybe a bad distributor?

When it cools down does it start back up then run and die again?

 

[northeastmoparnet]

Yup.

When it cools down does it start back up then run and die again?

You mean engine temp as in tight bearings? No.

 

[northeastmoparnet]

Could be lots of electrical gremlins, but
BeepBeepRR is correct about coil. "Usually" a bad resistor will fire on cranking then quit on run.
More than likely a bad ECU, tell me it's orange.....
There are quite a few threads here on troubleshooting Chrysler's system, and some real experts.
What are we diagnosing?
Pics will help.

 

[northeastmoparnet]

I removed the orange ecu and just replaced it with an ecu from autozone. But it acted the same. Started, ran for about 3 minutes and just stopped like throwing a switch. As far as fuel, I have a clear fuel filter at the carb and it is full and loads up nicely, so I do not think fuel is the issue?

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

probably the pick up getting hot and opening. Does it start again when it is cooled off? Doubt it is the ballast resistor since it does run easy check though. Not tight bearings, have no idea where that came from. New electronics suck big time also.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Bypass the ballast resistor with a jumper wire see if it runs or cuts off.

 

[northeastmoparnet]

I would look into coil and or ballast resistor.

I replaced both the coil and the ballast resistor as I did not know how old they were and it was a cheap buy to just replace them. No change in how she acts. I just got this car. Engine is completely rebuilt and when it starts it start in one revolution and sounds and runs real strong and then just stops like throwing a switch.

 

[northeastmoparnet]

I found the problem. I have been having issues with the floor shifter sometimes not wanting to start in the park position. Moving it to the neutral position would start it. Today I tried again and in park it would not even turn over. So while holding the key in start, I reached over in the park position and wiggled the shifter and all of a sudden she fired right up and ran fine. So now that I know, what should I look for when I jack her up? The tranny I know has a neutral safety switch which if I remember is screwed intop the tranny with either 2 or 3 prongs. Do you think that is the problem

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Check your bulkhead connections. Sounds like its getting the ignition side but not the run side. Look at the schematics for your cars wiring. I would check that.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

You may have two diff problems, tranny linkage adjusting and ignition switch backelite coming loose what makes contacts get a gap. They are not related.

The tranny linkage will make to crank or not, but will never stall the engine once running

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Here even though we dont know what you are working on.... Most of the ignition is the same for most of the cars.

Yellow,Brown and Blue are the wires you will be dealing with.

 

[northeastmoparnet]

I just ordered my colored schematic for my 66. I got the 66 manual but it is hard to read those in there. IOt is a 66 383 automatic charger.