Does hood scoop help cooling

[Wazoo64]

67 Coronet with new 512 stroker and its running a little warmer than I would like. Cruising down the highway it gets 195-204degrees. Not overheating but I would like to run cooler.

Champion 26inch 3 row
2 electric fans in shroud 1500 cfm each.
Water wetter 30/70 mix coolant.
Milodon aluminum water pump

I hate to cut the hood but will a hood scoop make a big cooling difference? I feel like the hot air has no where to go accept through the fire wall.

 

[benno440]

I put a 2" reverse cowl on my charger and it dropped the engines heat by about 5*

ram hood I am not sure about

 

[66Satellite47]

Are you running a T-stat? What temp? Alum heads? 195- 200* seems just right if it doesn't climb too high at low speeds. Airflow across the radiator, correct flow rate from the water pump are the main factors. A scoop might help a little at low speeds.

 

[super-bee_ski]

I'm sorry BUT:
Your quote: "67 Coronet with new 512 stroker and its running a little warmer than I would like. Cruising down the highway it gets 195-204degrees. Not overheating but I would like to run cooler."

That is perfect temps for a internal combustion engine


How "COOL" do you want to run?
Engineers designing engines specifically want the engine to run in that temp range.

Many Positive factors occur in that range.

I'm confused.

 

[Darter6]

Before cutting the hood.Try this.Make sure that it has the rad support seal and adjust the hood so the back of the hood is lifted up about 1 to 2 inches when closed. That will allow the hot air to escape and have max air thru the rad in front.If it helps you will have your answer. And yes When I added a 65 "B"Hemi scoop to my Belvedere it did run cooler.

 

[rgp266]

I'm thinking that you might have gone with a 4 row rather than a 3 row for that stroker in Southern California. My '65 Valiant with just a mild 318 came out of Riverside and it has a 4 row copper/brass radiator with a 180 Thermostat that is now total overkill for Michigan. If you are running a 195 thermostat your temps are about right. If you want it to cruise cooler then go to a 180 Thermostat. I also would try raising the back of the hood before I broke out the saws-all. How is it in traffic on surface streets?

Bob

 

[Cranky]

How wide are the tubes on your radiator? I've found that my cars do better with fewer rows but with larger tubes. With 4 row radiators, the air is already heated up by the time it reaches the 4th row so it's pretty much useless. My latest endeavour was with a V6 Dakota that always liked to run a bit on the hot side and when it came time to replace the factory 2 row copper/brass unit, I found an aluminum single row with 1 1/4 wide tubes for free. I did some research on radiator efficiency and decided to stick it in. This thing has never run below 210 since new and now it never goes over 195 which is what the stat is. Yeah, it's just a V6 but the radiator isn't very big and I also live in the Houston heat where 100 degrees isn't uncommon. I know you already have your 3 row but if you ever get the chance to try a 2 row with larger tubes, do it and see if it helps. If nothing else, do some research. Getting the heat out from under hood helps but not that much but if you're looking for a good excuse to run a scoop, this is it lol. I ran a 6 pack hood on my Cuda for a bit and I didn't see any difference in engine temps. All it did was let in more debris into the engine compartment...but it looked cool

 

[super-bee_ski]

Gee
190 to 204 running hot?

 

[Propwash]

No offense intended, but adding a hood scoop to help cooling sounds like you're trying to cure a symptom and not the actual problem. Also, i'm with ski, 195-204* doesn't sound like any kind of over heating condition. Creeping up into the 200's she's starting to get a bit warm. Sitting that warm cruising down the highway is a bit off. Another thing to remember is Horsepower makes heat. That 512 would almost be certain to run a tad hotter than a stock configuration.

That being said, IMO I never been a fan of the electric fan system. From the extra costs, to the mod's, to the extra amp draw, i've never seen any benefits over a well laid out steel fan, clutch and shroud system. I also run a 512 with a 3 core champion radiator, hayden clutch, mopar shroud and 17" steel fan. The car runs cool and typically never creeps more than a few degrees over 180*. Even if stop/go traffic in the summer. Not ripping on your system, and for those with a successful electric fan system, more power to you.

Take it for what it's worth, but I would take a look at your timing, any possible vacuum leaks, carb/fuel delivery & settings, any air in the cooling system, to troubleshoot a overheating condition. Also, avoid any type of ethanol fuel like the plague. Your fans, I'd be speculating if they have enough push or pull to be cooling your ride. There's plenty of article's out there about aftermarket electrical fans impeding airflow at higher speeds. A lot of them are not clutched or freewheel like a new vehicles system at higher speeds.

Best of luck to you. Cooling problems can really suck sometimes. Lotta bases to cover besides just the basic cooling system itself.

 

[super-bee_ski]

And yes,
If you have AIR entering the engine compartment you will remove warm air from the area.

Do you have headers?
Properly coated headers will reduce engine compartment heat.

 

[Wazoo64]

I figured I'd get the whole cooling system debate here. I'm pretty well versed on all the cooling ins and outs and realize 204 isn't considered hot. I like my cars running under 180 at highway speed. For many reasons not worth debating. This is not a fan issue because it actually will cool down in traffic. I think timing is good but possibly running lean when cruising 3000rpm would be the only mechanical issue I haven't troubleshooted. I left the jets as the dyno guy tuned them but maybe they should be bigger. Just curious if anyone had a real life experience adding the hemi scoop..

 

[super-bee_ski]

Again,
YES...
Airflow through the engine compartment will cool the engine compartment down considerably.

Car engine compartments with "our" engines become hot.
Certain conditions can allow for temps up to 350 degrees under the hood.

Of course, if you CAN vent that out, it will help lower some temps.

Again, ceramic coated headers also reduce engine temps

 

[MarPar]

{read the post first junior}

honestly though, a 512 @ 204* aint bad at all...

 

[super-bee_ski]

Mar,
Yup, 204 is a GREAT TEMP!

He did state: "Water wetter 30/70 mix coolant."

Add a scoop like this:
(My 63 Max Wedge clone)

 

[MarPar]

Mar,
Yup,

He did state: "Water wetter 30/70 mix coolant."

Add a scoop like this:
(My 63 Max Wedge clone)

:eusa_doh: crap.

 

[super-bee_ski]

But MarPar,
again, 190 to 204 degrees is a great engine temp for a Big Block like that!

 

[AMX364]

First car that I added a electric fan to I found that in the winter, the fan was coming on at highway speeds. It used a lighted fan switch. By cutting the lower part of the radiator support that opened enough air flow(highway, winter) to NOT have the cooling fan come on until after slowing to non-highway speeds. The part cut out interfered with the air flow if you looked at it in terms of interference to the radiator core.

 

[MarPar]

But MarPar,
again, 190 to 204 degrees is a great engine temp for a Big Block like that!

very true my friend.

 

[Wazoo64]

70% Water only 30% glycol maybe even less. 1 1/2 bottles of water wetter.

- - - Updated - - -

For what its worth I did have an interesting discussion with a tech at US Radiator. They make a radiator that has 2 x 1 inch tubes and I was told by a few friends it might cool better than the 3 row champion. The tech did not think the 2 row would give me a better cooling capacity. After discussing with the tech at US Radiator I found out that they have a radiator called optima which is direct fit and they baffle the tanks along with a couple of tricks above my head. According to the tech the Optima it is the radiator they use for all the big HP engines and has near twice the cooling capacity. They do not make in alluminum and not sure I want to throw $700 at this right now.

- - - Updated - - -

Got the ceramic headers......I do think some air flow makes a difference just not sure the actual science behind it.

 

[rgp266]

Waz.....if you do go with the scoop are you going to seal it to the carb or use it to flood the engine bay with air? You never did confirm if you are using a thermostat or what temperature it is set for.

Bob